Beautiful algae pics...

[deocder]

Check out my algae!

Tank Parameters:

55 gallon
78 degrees F
DIY CO2
Eheim canister filter
Mixi-Jet 600 power head
2.5 W/gallon
Flourite mixed with gravel substrate

pH - 6.8
dKH - 5
dGH - 9
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 10 ppm
Iron - 0
Phosphate - 5.0 mg/L
Calculated CO2 - 22.3 mg/L

Fish-
4 otto's
2 flying fox's
1 Rainbow
2 Blind cave fish
2 Clown loaches
1 Tire track eel (eats rosy reds only)
1 rubber lipped pleco


The algae has been in my tank since before I added plants. I was hoping that the plants would consume some of the excess nutrients that were feeding the algae but it seems to have gotten worse. I figured that I did not get enough plants so I have been adding more and more. I have been doing 35-50% water changes every other day. I've been doing the water changes ever since my nitrate reading were off the scale (160 ppm)....the nitrates seem to have stabilized but phosphates are still off the scale (highest reading is 5.0 mg/L) My tap water has 1.0 mg/L of phosphates. I am not adding any buffers right now but I did in the past before the plants. I am only adding Flourish at each water change along with Prime.

Anubias Nana with what I believe is BBA. Notice the bogwood with algae also.

Java Fern. On the underside of the leaves it looks like brown hairy roots are growing

It looks like hair algae is growing on the gravel. I remove pieces of gravel every now and then.

Another Java Fern in the center completely consumed by algae.

I really like the scratches in my glass also......but thats not a high priority...other than the algae that lives in them.

The more I read, the more it looks like I need to bleach everything.....but that would mean bleaching everything......even the gravel....and the walls of the tank....and the bogwood.....so I'm not sure what I should do. A blackout maybe? I've read a lot about the balance between nutrients and with my phosphates so high, I am unable to find that balance.

In my filter right now is a phosphate absorbing filter pad and a product called Phos-X.....however I have noticed no change in my phosphate levels even a few hours after a water change.

I need help here guys and girls.....I have a 10 gallon tank that is doing perfectly fine....but this 55 gallon is quite a challenge.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

 

[Seaman]

I would do the blackout, bleaching works well but like you said you will have to bleach EVERYTHING. Do a black out for 3-4 days and dont feed at all during the blackout, that should help a lot. Also the zava fern is reproducing thats why you see the hairy roots growing on the underside of the leaves.

 

[daveedka]

I like blackouts, they don't cost much and help a lot I've heard they don't kill BBA, I guess that wuld be one way to get a positive ID on the algea you are growing. I'd cut way back on feeding and keep up on big frequent water changes. after a 4-5 day blackout, I'd prune scrb or bleach anything with algea left on it. Phosphates are intriuging to me, they seem to materialise in many tanks. If you reduction in feedings and you water changes don't get the under wraps eventually, I'm not sure what to do next.
Dave

 

[djlen]

A massive cleanup is clearly in order.
Here is what I would do. Make up two buckets of water. Fill one with a solution of water/bleach at a ratio of 25:1. Into the other fill with fresh water, and add to it 3 - 5 times the dosage you use when re-filling the tank with tap water.
Pull everything out of the tank starting with inanimates(rocks, decorations, filter tubes, heaters, in short every thing except filter media), and dip for 10 mins. Pull them out and rinse under the sink well, and then into the bucket with the tap water conditioner in it. Let that set. Wash your hands....they will smell like chlorine.....and dip them into the conditioned water to get rid of all traces of bleach.
Now you either wait 10 more mins. to be sure the conditioner has done it's job, or if there is room in the bucket for the plants, start dipping them in the water/bleach solution.....
Dip plants in water/bleach solution: tender plants(Val.) 45 seconds; hardy plants(anubia)1.5-2.0mins. In order to watch the time, only a few plants can be dipped at a time. Immediately after time is up, rinse well under the faucet and immediately into the freshwater/tap water conditioner mix. Let them sit in it and move on to the next batch of plants for dipping, rinsing and into the conditioner until all plants are dipped and into the conditioned water.
Go to the tank, which should now contain only fish and substrate. First scrub the sides down thoroughly, removing all traces of algae and BBA. Try to cover all areas.
Gravel siphon as much of the surface of gravel as possible. You don't have to go deep(1/2" is fine), but try to cover as much area as possible. Continue siphoning out the water as much as reasonably possible. I have done 90% water changes on tanks during this treatment with no problem. Re-fill.
Replace your plants, rocks, heater, filter etc.
I can't over-emphasize the need to dip your hands into the conditioned water to remove bleach before touching the tank itself.
Take out a sample of tap water, and set it out over night. Then test for P, N, and kH. You need to balance your elements coming out of the tap with other necessary elements, and this combined with your CO2 and a ton of Stem Plants, and Water Sprite, Egeria or Salvinia(floater) should get your tank back on it's feet.
The Bleach bath will kill all BBA, but you should try to get a couple of SAEs to eat any BBA that re-grows.

Len

 

[deocder]

Thank you guys, this is exactly the information that I needed to get me moving. The process is scheduled for this weekend sometime. I'll use big plastic storage containers for the dip.

One thing that I am not sure what to do about is the substrate.....its got algae on it too.....should I just leave it in there? Wouldn't that just trigger growth later on? There is hair and bba and some others growing too.....can I bleach it also?


Also, djlen mentions to get SAE's, I have 2 flying foxes, would they work?
Also I have a lot of anacharis in the tank right now to suck up excess nutrients....are they okay to use as a stem plant?

 

[Starry]

Something no one mentioned - you should be merciless with algae-infested plants. Cut off all leaves that have more than just a little algae. There is really no point whatsoever keeping sick leaves, - they will not help you fight algae, will keep draining the plant of nutrients and look absolutely horrible. Once your big clean-up is done, keep up with this. Clean the glass at least weekly, and cut off any leaves that have algae on them. You can't really count on bleach dips alone, because you can't bleach a plant every week.

 

[djlen]

deocder -
Down here we have a great LFS, but they continually mis-label SAEs as 'True Flying Fox'. Annoys the heck out of me. What they have is not a Flying Fox, but an SAE. But they carry them and when I need one or two they are available and inexpensive.
SAE's are the only fish(I have heard there are others), in my experience, that will eat new growth of BBA. The point is that if you think what you have will do the job, go with them. Otos will do a great job on glass algae.
If you decide to look for an SAE or two the name is: Crossocheilus siamensis.

As to the substrate. When you gravel siphon(not too deep, but thorough) you will get a lot of the algae up. After the thorough cleaning and re-setting the tank, adding back lots of plants and getting your ferts. in order, over time you will see a clearing of any residual algae.
Anacharis is a good nutrient user......if it's healthy. When you re-plant, plant the stuff that looks the best, and supplement heavily with stems and the other plants, from the LFS, that I mentioned earlier.

Len

 

[deocder]

Okay, I guess I am ready to do this...I picked up some large rubbermaid containers to do the dip as well as a bottle of dechlorinator and an algae scrubbing pad.

I think I will try to pick out as much of the hair algae covered pieces of gravel once everything is out.

Oh here is a picture of my supposed flying fox's. I have two. There is a black band down the length of the fish that extends into the tail fin. Along with a light brown stripe above that. They definitely eat algae.....it looks like they peck at it quickly. They also have barbels below their mouths. What do you think they are, fox's or SAE?

 

[cohazard]

I'm a really impatient person, and what most people would call wasting money, I call "worth the investment".

That tank looks like it has really been neglected to get that out-of-hand. Here's what I would do.............empty as much water from the 55 after taking the fish out. Get a buddy to stand at one end of the tank, and you at the other, lift up, and chuck it out the window, lol, j/k.

But seriously, how can you stand those scratches? I really would throw it all away and start over.


Good luck with the salvage operation,

Serg

 

[deocder]

Yea, I know, the scratches suck...I plan on getting a new tank when I move. Now would be a good time to get it but I'm going to hold off. The scratches are not that visible normally. I think that particular photo over emphasizes them.

Anyway, I started the dip and was wondering if the algae turns white right away or does it take a little time? Some of it appears to turn white right away while most of it still looks green after the dip in bleach. I waited 10 minutes for the bogwood, heater, filter tubes, etc. Plants are coming up soon. 45-90 seconds as suggested.

Also, does the algae grow without light? Do I have to dip my canister filter in bleach?