vidiots - Sounds like you did a good job there... it wouldnt be too hard for me to reinforce the floor if I had an unfinished lower level, but its all finished. Not to say I couldnt do some re-modeling either but would definately get a contractors opinion before tearing up a finished room.
Native American - Thats interesting what you suggest. Hadnt thought about heating like that... I have noticed on my more cube shaped 45G tank with PC lighting it does run a few degrees over ambient. On my 75G though with DIY hood & lighting (used 2 ballasts designed for 4 tubes each (256W output total), overdriven into 4 tubes total, 2 venting fans), and an XP3 canister and couple powerheads, it does struggle to keep temp when the room is cool. It has either 2 200W heaters or 2 250W cant remember for sure now. For example the last few days I have had the back door off the house while remodeling the dining room. Its gotten pretty cool at night bringing the living room down to 66-68 degrees. My tank is set around 77-78 degrees and usually by morning if the room temp is down around 66-68 the tank has dropped down to about 74. I was worried because a couple fish I have are said to be sensative to temp fluctuatiuon more than 2 degrees, but they are ok. I have never seen this tank run higher than ambient when the room temp is actually over 77 though... usually theres a few hot days we forget to turn the ac on or something and its in the low 80's in the house when we come home, the tank might have risen slightly but usually still below ambient.
I do hear what your saying though, a bigger tank might be more effecient at retaining heat. If I try my best to keep the lower level warmer that will help too. But its still going to be around 10 degrees over ambient, even if I tried to keep the room at 70 which would be difficult thats still about 6-8 degrees to get to tropical temps. It be much easier if all my fish could live happy at 70* or less. Are acrylic tanks any better at insulating heat? I also plan on putting the tank atop a sheet of styrofoam as per manufacturer recomendation and was toying with the idea if I do an sump that I could build it out of a large cooler instead of glass. Not sure how much that would help. I could probably even insulate that back with styrofoam as well. BTW, I am thinking I might just end up with a 120G. I like the 24"Wx25"T profile, just the length I havent decided on... 48", 60", 72", or 96" for 120, 150, 180, 240 gallons. But the 120G tank still has the same weight per floor footage as 240... said another way, half the weight but also over half the number of floor joists.
Native American - Thats interesting what you suggest. Hadnt thought about heating like that... I have noticed on my more cube shaped 45G tank with PC lighting it does run a few degrees over ambient. On my 75G though with DIY hood & lighting (used 2 ballasts designed for 4 tubes each (256W output total), overdriven into 4 tubes total, 2 venting fans), and an XP3 canister and couple powerheads, it does struggle to keep temp when the room is cool. It has either 2 200W heaters or 2 250W cant remember for sure now. For example the last few days I have had the back door off the house while remodeling the dining room. Its gotten pretty cool at night bringing the living room down to 66-68 degrees. My tank is set around 77-78 degrees and usually by morning if the room temp is down around 66-68 the tank has dropped down to about 74. I was worried because a couple fish I have are said to be sensative to temp fluctuatiuon more than 2 degrees, but they are ok. I have never seen this tank run higher than ambient when the room temp is actually over 77 though... usually theres a few hot days we forget to turn the ac on or something and its in the low 80's in the house when we come home, the tank might have risen slightly but usually still below ambient.
I do hear what your saying though, a bigger tank might be more effecient at retaining heat. If I try my best to keep the lower level warmer that will help too. But its still going to be around 10 degrees over ambient, even if I tried to keep the room at 70 which would be difficult thats still about 6-8 degrees to get to tropical temps. It be much easier if all my fish could live happy at 70* or less. Are acrylic tanks any better at insulating heat? I also plan on putting the tank atop a sheet of styrofoam as per manufacturer recomendation and was toying with the idea if I do an sump that I could build it out of a large cooler instead of glass. Not sure how much that would help. I could probably even insulate that back with styrofoam as well. BTW, I am thinking I might just end up with a 120G. I like the 24"Wx25"T profile, just the length I havent decided on... 48", 60", 72", or 96" for 120, 150, 180, 240 gallons. But the 120G tank still has the same weight per floor footage as 240... said another way, half the weight but also over half the number of floor joists.
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