Biological Filtration...important?

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moboe

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Feb 17, 2004
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So glad to find this forum in which to ask questions about setting up my new 20 gal. tank.
I bought a starter kit, and only when I brought it home and started setting it up did I realize that it came with a Whisper 20 filter, but no undergravel filter. My 20 gallon and 10 gallon tanks of 10 years ago came with undergravel filters, and then I added filters that hung over the back. I understand that undergravel filters provide biological filtration, and my Whisper 20 provides mechanical and chemical.

So, without the undergravel filter, which so many posts on this forum vote against, I have no biological filtration. I understand I can upgrate from my Whisper 20 to another filter that provides all 3 types of filtration. Is this necessary?

Thanks!
 
Your Whipser will also provide biological filtration. The bacteria live in the filter medi (ie the cartridges).

You do not need an Undergravel filter. They can make tank maintenance more complicated and are generally unnecessary.
 
Thanks, Aquarius, for your reply. So, even though my Whisper 20 only has the sponge and carbon inserts, and no aerobic (or isn't it called something like that?) media, which the Whisper filters larger than 20 have, I still have biological filtration, based on the bacteria that live in the filter? If that's the case, that's great!

So, when I change filter media, is it like starting the chemistry of the tank all over again?
 
Your sponge will provide a good place for bio filtration. Besides that, there is enough bacteria over gravel, decorations and other parts of your filter to keep things going so you will not be starting all over again... but it is not necessary to even change filter media, except for the carbon if you wish to keep it (it isn't necessary, just buy another sponge, but that is personal preference). Just rinse your sponge(s) out in old or treated water, there is no reason to replace it and you'll save money.
 
Thanks so much to everyone for your responses to my query. I really appreciate your input!

It seems as though I have 2 choices. I can get a different HOB filter (like a BioWheel) or use the filter I have and don't change the media very often. This Whisper filter has the sponge and carbon attached as one replacement part, so if I wanted to replace the carbon, I'd have to replace the sponge too. If I don't want to replace the sponge, I can't replace the carbon. Not very flexible.

I think I'll buy a test kit and see how the levels are going, and then decide if another filter is a good choice. My old tanks had AquaClear filters, which seem so much more flexible, as you can change whichever part of the media you choose...as well as doubling up on sponges, as I've read here. The Biowheel sounds like a great filter, too.

I've had 2 zebra danios in the tank from the start, and now by day3,they seem happy and well. I'm ready to add a couple more fish, and I'll continue testing the water and see how the levels end up.

Any more suggestions are welcome. Thanks for all the help thus far!
 
moboe, I'm not sure how the Whisper's cartridge works but you may be able to rig something up so that you can dump the carbon and just use the sponge. Carbon is really only necessary for removing medication or chemicals from the tank.

The Whispers are a decent filter but if you got the money a Penguin would be a nice purchase. I like the whole Biowheel thing since you can change filter cartridges without affecting the biological filter at all. On a 20 gallon tank the 175 would be nice.

In any case, what kveeti said about rinsing the filter in old tank water or treated water is important. Rinsing the filter under untreated tap water which still has chlorine/chloramine in it will kill off the bacteria in the filter. This would likely cause a little mini cycle in the tank.

Tom
 
I just wanted to make sure you understood the basics of filtration. Forgive me if this post seems obvious to you. NO filter actually "provides" biological filtration. Biological filtration is provided by naturally occuring strains of bacteria that live in your tank. They live in the gravel, decorations, and in the filter and filter media. So the filter does provide a place for the bacteria to grow and live, but it does not provide the actual biological filtration. The bacteria break ammonia (NH3) into less toxic nitrite (NO2) which is broken into nitrate (NO3) which is toxic only at high levels.
Your tank still has to cycle, which means it has to grow the bacteria colonies that will provide the biological filtration. When you purchase a filter (regardless of the brand or type) the bacteria do not come with it. When ammonia is present in your tank (either from fish, or in fishless cycling, store bought ammonia) the bacteria will start to grow. It takes about 4-6 weeks for the cycling to complete.
 
Thanks, RHJ for the info about biological filtration. I felt pretty well versed in what biological filtration is, but am always glad for a refresher course. I guess my concern about biological filtration has been , is my set up offering the means for biological filtration to become established? I thought that an undergravel filter or HOB filter with the proper media would be required for bacteria to grow. Glad to know it isn't.

However, I did test my water this morning, and ph was a bit high (7.6) and ammonia was high (1.). This is only day 3 of this set up, which I took a chance and started with 2 small Zebra danios, and just added 2 long fin leopard danios to. The fish seem very happy and active, but I don't know if the bacteria is going to begin to grow quickly enough to convert the ammonia. Should I do a water change this soon, and/or add some sort of ammonia neutralizer to the water? I'm afraid the ammonia is going to get higher before it gets lower!

Thanks again for the help. What a wonderful resource this is!
 
Yes, if you are cycling with fish you must do frequent water changes, as needed to keep the ammonia levels below 1. Even that level can be detrimental to fish, but seldom is fatal. I would not add any more fish until the ammonia and nitrites hit 0--even then, you'll get spikes with each additional fish, so take it slow, and do plenty of water changes.
 
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