rather than adding cooler water, why not add heated water from the tap? you can use any kind of household thermometer to check that the temp is similar. adding in water that is much cooler or much warmer can cause certain problems with respiration.
Biospira- Ammonia/nitrite spike 2 weeks later?
- Thread starter ciniron
- Start date
Why are you moving your heater between buckets? You're not removing the fish to do water changes are you? As long as the tank doesn't get too cold (below 72) I would just try and keep a stable temp. in the tank with whatever it is now. Fluctuating temps. can stress the fish also...Losing and replacing the heater should adjust the temp. gradually enough to not cause any problems, doing a water change with drastically different temps. could.
Okay, the room I have my fish in is my bedroom, a converted garage. I don't have plumbing in the room, and I can't carry buckets of water down the stairs from the house without spilling all over the carpet. What I do is after I've removed the old water, I fill two 5 gallon buckets halfway each with the hose water. (2.5 gallons is the most I can lift up into the top of the tank without spilling everywhere) I then heat the water in each bucket with an extra 25 watt heater (not the one I use in my tank) to the temperature of the tank water before adding it in. The water that comes out of my hose this time of year is around 65 degrees F, and I don't want to shock the fish by adding water that's that much colder.
I'm doing a 30% water change right now. I'll check the water conditions and report when I get home after school tonight.
I'm doing a 30% water change right now. I'll check the water conditions and report when I get home after school tonight.
It is also perfectly possible that the formalin/malachite green of the med has damaged the biofilter.
Okay, I did a 30% water change today, and here are the readings from several hours after it.
Ammonia- .25 ppm
Nitrite- .50 ppm
Nitrate- 5.0 ppm
I've thought about that possibility. All the spots are gone off the female, the one that got them first. I'll treat for a few days after the spots are gone from the other fish. I'm concerned about using salt only, because the ich on the female was really horrible, and I've read it only works on mild cases. I didn't notice it for a long time because she's white, and she was really shy for at least a week. I want to make sure I beat the ich, since the ammonia is already stressing them.
Ammonia- .25 ppm
Nitrite- .50 ppm
Nitrate- 5.0 ppm
I've thought about that possibility. All the spots are gone off the female, the one that got them first. I'll treat for a few days after the spots are gone from the other fish. I'm concerned about using salt only, because the ich on the female was really horrible, and I've read it only works on mild cases. I didn't notice it for a long time because she's white, and she was really shy for at least a week. I want to make sure I beat the ich, since the ammonia is already stressing them.
cyberbeer65
Scratch Glass!
First of all,you need to get your ammonia/nitrite under control.Those readings are still too high.The only way to do this is through water changes.Secondly,here is a great article on how to cure ich......http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39759
Yeah, I'm doing water changes every other day (which is all I possibly have time to do).
...but does anyone have any idea about how long it'll take for my bio filter to stabilize? x_x; I don't have this much time to keep cleaning the tank. Midterms are coming up... :coffee:
...but does anyone have any idea about how long it'll take for my bio filter to stabilize? x_x; I don't have this much time to keep cleaning the tank. Midterms are coming up... :coffee:
