Black Algae Problem

tredd

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Dec 13, 2003
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I've got a 90G aquarium that I'm having a terrible time with black and green algae. The black algae is growing on all the plants, and rocks. It's been setup 3 months, and has probably about 40 tropical fish in it. The fish are doing great with no casualities. It has a gravel substrate, aquaclear 300, and fluval 4 filters, 300 watt heater. For lighting I have 2-F32WT8-AR-FS and 2-F40SP65. It is on 10 hours a day, with no natural sunlight.
I have recently added 2 - 12 inch airstones thinking that algae doesn't like moving water, but it keeps growing. I have 1 amazon sword plant, 10 Dwarf Hygrophila , and 10 Anacharis. Should I be using air stones? Will adding CO2 help anything? My levels are fine PH 8, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0, GH 140, KH 90. The plants seem to be growing fine, but get covered with algae within a week of growing a new leaf. Do I have too much water movement in the tank? I have also tried removing the carbon from the aquaclear filter thinking it was removing something that the plants needed but no luck. Anyone have any pointers?

Thanks
Tim

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wow, that looks really sad :(

You're on the right track removing the carbon. You don't need the airstones.

Have you even measured your carbonate hardness (KH)? Your pH is really high for a planted tank, meaning you don't have nearly enough CO2. It would do wonders if you added CO2. Since you don't have nitrates, I'm guessing you don't have much other nutrients either. If you do get CO2, fertilizing with potassium, traces and little phosphate and nitrate will be the next step.

People usually recommend bleaching rocks and plants (very mild for plants) for this type of algae, but I've never done that, so I can;t comment. In any case, it will just return unless you take care of the underlying problems.
 
My KH is 90. I just measured the iron and it is 0. From my reading it seems I need to add iron. Is this correct? What type of CO2 should I be looking at? Any brands or products you can recommend? When you say the underlying problem, what exactly are you referring to? Is that the specs of the water? What should idea specs be for a planted tank? Should I be fertilizing with any particular type of fertilizer? My LFS told me yesterday, that I should be using some type of phosphate remover to get of the nutrients that the algae use, is that correct? I'm kinda new to all this and any tips would be helpful!!

Thanks
Tim
 
no it's very good that you ask these things. I would put plants in my tank but cichlids would tear them apart. So my knowledge on plants is at a minimal. Sorry
 
Do not use the phosphate remover! Use your plants as a phosphate remover. Your plants need some phosphate to grow anyways:)

I think Skippy is right about the type of algae, but I am no algae expert. But, I have had many battles with it, and have been winning for a couple years now. It could just be a partial symptom of new tank syndrome, your tank is really pretty new. With that particular algae, the only time I saw it was when I got lazy on the water changes. How often/how much do you do water changes?

Other than that, the best way to combat algae is to create an environment where the plants can outcompete the algae. Its all about balancing everything out. I will go over the overview of what I have found in my experience. The four keys to that are:
1. Lighting
2. Nutreints
3. Water cleanliness(not the most accurate term,but..)
4. Planting density

1. Lighting, Intensity and spectrum are key here.
- Intensity, most people shoot for about 2 wpg as a target, more with CO2, less without CO2. You are about 1.6 of normal output flourescent light, which is on the low side, especially with a deep tank like a 90. But many people successfully grow some plants at that light level. You are limited to lower light plants. More light would help, IMO.
- Spectrum, the light must be in a spectrum that the plants can use. I don't know what your bulbs are but if the plants had been actually growing for three months I don't think you have the wrong spectrum. I don't know what that code means, can you list the brand and name of the bulb? Also, age is big factor in flourescent lighting, how are old are the bulbs?

2. Nutrients - Micros, Macros and Carbon. with more light you need more nutreints
** Micros = trace elements. Your plants need a vareity of trace elements including iron. Some people use a plant substrate to help the plants out and they work well. The other is liquid ferts, there are many prepared trace element fertilizers to use. The popular ones seem to be Seachem, Tropica Mastergrow and Kent. I use Seachem Flourish and I would suggest it to you. I would buy a bottle and start by dosing per the bottle directions twice a week. It is a little light on Iron, but with your ligthing I would suggest getting a Iron rich fertilizer tab and put it under the sword in the gravel. I use Seachem Flourish tabs. Swords are heavy root feeders and your gravel is giving them nothing.
** Macros = N,P,K
-N = nitrate, your plants need relatively small amounts of this to survive. In your setup I would think what you get from feeding your fish would be enough, but you say it tests out at zero. Are you sure about this. If it regularly does you will have to add some, but get the micros going first before you decide you need to add extra Nitrate, it can boost algae growth if the plants aren't growing fast enough to use it.
-P = Phosphate, once agian your plants need a small amount to survive, but much less than they do nitrate. Once again you shouldn't need to supplement this at first, nor is it necessarily the cause of your algae.
- K = Potassium - this is something your plants need and in a pretty decent amount. You can use Flourish Potassium, but it is expensive long term. You can buy Nu-salt(salt substitute) at the grocery store and doses 1/4-1/2tsp twice a week. I think this would help your plants a lot.
** Carbon = usually CO2. Plants are made mostly of carbon, so it makes sense to add a source of carbon to the tank. But, this only necessary if you have the light and other nutreints to use it. But, it will always help and won't hurt anything unless you put in too much and it harms the fish. You can use Pressurized CO2, DIY yeast/sugar CO2, or Seachem Excel. This is another post entirely if you want more info here, but it does not have to be difficult.

3. Water cleanliness= water changes. This is a key. I am now doing 50% a week on my tanks. But in your setup 25% should be fine. It seems like a pain at first, but, you will develop a system. A lot of people buy the python water change units to simplify it. Currently, I would do several 25-50% water changes a couple days a part to see if that helps clear the algae you currently have.

4. Plant density- the more the better. I would at least double the current stock of plants you have. Especially fast growing nutreint hungry plants like Anacharis,. With most stem plants you can prune off the top of the plant and replant the top leaving the base. New shoots should sprout on the base you left. That would be a way to double your stem plant density.

These are good places to start if you really want to grow your plants. I hope this helps.
 
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First, make sure you have the proper test kits.

Test you pH from the tap, then test the tank water. If you are using airstones (which you need to get rid of right now), then the tank should have a higher pH than your tap.

Do not buy fertilizer yet. Until you know where the Black algae or Red Algae (yes, it looks black) comes from you will not know how to treat it.

Algae is always from an imbalance of this or that...light, CO2, Nitrates, Fertilizers, Phosphates...

Get Seachem's Phosphate (PO4) test kit. Find out what you PO4 is.

Confirm that your test kit is accurate by having no Nitrates (if it is absolutely zero, I would be surprised, unless the tank is 2-5 weeks old). Take a sample of your tank water to the Local Fish Store and ask them to test for Nitrates. A reading of zero NO3 seems "fishy" (pardon the play) considering your fish load of 40 fish in a 90 gallon.

Siamese Algae Eaters (SAE's) and Malaysian Trumpet Snails (MTS's) are both great eaters of BBA (Black Beard/Brush Algae)...

I have also successfully used no more than 1ml/gallon of tank water of H2O2 (Hydrogen Peroxide) directly applied to rocks and substrate with a syringe or eye dropper (yes...under the water) prior to a water change.

It will kill the algae slowly and is not toxic to fish in the proper quantity.


I would recommend looking into compressed CO2...but only AFTER you do a lot of reading on this board and two others:
www.plantedtank.net/forum/
http://aquabotanicwetthumb.infopop.cc

Thanks,
Steve
 
More info

Thanks for everyones replies! I've retested my water tonight and the specs are as follows

GH 200
NO3 3-4
NO2 0
Ammonia 0
PH 8
KH 80mg/L

I usually change 20-25% every 1.5 weeks. The lights are in the pink and blue spectrum and can be found on this site here. I had the wrong type of bulb previously, but got these about a month ago. I'm not sure if would have caused the problem or not, but I was just running regular shop lights for a month or so.
Lighting

I also measured my tap water and it is 8, the same as the tank. I have removed all the airstones from the tank.

Tim
 
Check your tap water for phosphates.This was one of the causes for my algea problem. Too much phosphate is a bad thing. By the way Im 98% algea free. Ye ha Tim
 
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