Introduction
First, let me say greetings and that it's good to be back and a part of this forum. I was here a few years ago, but life got in the way so I had to step away for a while. I couldn't remember my old username so I'm going with an old fav.
The Issue
I am preparing a 55G tank to keep discus. I've done this before so I'm not entirely new, but my pH keeps bouncing. Here is the twist though, I use a Kent Maxxima R/O DI 35GPD filter to purify my water. I let that sit in a plastic covered container outside where I treat it with 10 m/l of Electro Right and adjust the pH with Seachem's acid. I also use a powerhead for circulation and to adjust the temperture. The powerhead also has a heater. I use a Pinpoint probe to determine pH and have calibrated it within the last 6 to 8 weeks, so I feel confident my readings are accurate. My kh readings using the little Jungle test stripes are always very soft and so too are my gh readings. The pH in the plastic container is 6.0 and once set remains constant.
Second twist, when I initially set up the 55G tank, where I plan to keep the discus, I used treated tap water, but it was not R/O DI water. The water out of the tap in may area has a pH of 8.4 and kh and gh values that are very high. However, over the past 6 to 8 weeks while the tank was cycling I did partial water changes and replaced some of the treated (hard) tap water with the treated R/O DI water. The tank was completely cycled as of this past Monday, so I did a huge water change 66% in an effort to get my kh values in the tank to the very soft/soft range on the Jungle test kit and the gh in the soft range. I was successful and my Jungle test kit readings for kh are soft and my gh values read somewhere between soft and hard.
pH bounce would not be a concern for me, but I have eight Cory Ambicus that have had to endure the pH bounce twice now - not a good thing. They have handled it like little troopers, but I realize the consequences of having a rubbery pH with tropical fish - nevermind discus. I'd like to get the pH to stick without them having to endure another bounce. I will not purchase the discus until I've kept the pH stable across several water changes.
FYI I have two pieces of driftwood in the tank, but I'm sure they no longer release tanins. I have a few plastic plants and regular small/medium gravel.
I have a Fluval 404 cannister filter that currently has Zeolite, Carbon, and Bio Max. I also have a Angstrom 8w UV Sterilizer Hang on unit.
NH3/NH4=0
NO2=0
Gh=soft/hard (jungle test kit - sorry I don't have the ppm translation in front of me)
Kh=very soft/soft
Temp= 84.4 F
Residents
3 - Otos
8 - Cory Ambicus
Recently, I've gone back and re-read Dr. Timothy Hovanec's articles on pH and also on alkilinity and frankly I'm stomped. I realize that I have anti-acids in the water but just don't know where they're coming from. I'm guessing they're residule, but I'd appreciate any suggestions for how best to lower my pH and keep it low. Maybe it'll come with more water changes. Alternatively, I've read that once you have the pH lowered that you could keep adding acid to the tank until enough anti-acids in the tank are used up that your pH will stablize. However, I question the impact that repeatedly adding acid to the tank would have on the fish, even with a stable pH. Maybe someone can comment on that.
I apologize for the long initial post. Incidently, I did search for this topic and read a few other similar threads, but I still felt compelled to post anyway. I hope you all don't mind the redundancy. Again, it's good to be back!
Bennu
First, let me say greetings and that it's good to be back and a part of this forum. I was here a few years ago, but life got in the way so I had to step away for a while. I couldn't remember my old username so I'm going with an old fav.
The Issue
I am preparing a 55G tank to keep discus. I've done this before so I'm not entirely new, but my pH keeps bouncing. Here is the twist though, I use a Kent Maxxima R/O DI 35GPD filter to purify my water. I let that sit in a plastic covered container outside where I treat it with 10 m/l of Electro Right and adjust the pH with Seachem's acid. I also use a powerhead for circulation and to adjust the temperture. The powerhead also has a heater. I use a Pinpoint probe to determine pH and have calibrated it within the last 6 to 8 weeks, so I feel confident my readings are accurate. My kh readings using the little Jungle test stripes are always very soft and so too are my gh readings. The pH in the plastic container is 6.0 and once set remains constant.
Second twist, when I initially set up the 55G tank, where I plan to keep the discus, I used treated tap water, but it was not R/O DI water. The water out of the tap in may area has a pH of 8.4 and kh and gh values that are very high. However, over the past 6 to 8 weeks while the tank was cycling I did partial water changes and replaced some of the treated (hard) tap water with the treated R/O DI water. The tank was completely cycled as of this past Monday, so I did a huge water change 66% in an effort to get my kh values in the tank to the very soft/soft range on the Jungle test kit and the gh in the soft range. I was successful and my Jungle test kit readings for kh are soft and my gh values read somewhere between soft and hard.
pH bounce would not be a concern for me, but I have eight Cory Ambicus that have had to endure the pH bounce twice now - not a good thing. They have handled it like little troopers, but I realize the consequences of having a rubbery pH with tropical fish - nevermind discus. I'd like to get the pH to stick without them having to endure another bounce. I will not purchase the discus until I've kept the pH stable across several water changes.
FYI I have two pieces of driftwood in the tank, but I'm sure they no longer release tanins. I have a few plastic plants and regular small/medium gravel.
I have a Fluval 404 cannister filter that currently has Zeolite, Carbon, and Bio Max. I also have a Angstrom 8w UV Sterilizer Hang on unit.
NH3/NH4=0
NO2=0
Gh=soft/hard (jungle test kit - sorry I don't have the ppm translation in front of me)
Kh=very soft/soft
Temp= 84.4 F
Residents
3 - Otos
8 - Cory Ambicus
Recently, I've gone back and re-read Dr. Timothy Hovanec's articles on pH and also on alkilinity and frankly I'm stomped. I realize that I have anti-acids in the water but just don't know where they're coming from. I'm guessing they're residule, but I'd appreciate any suggestions for how best to lower my pH and keep it low. Maybe it'll come with more water changes. Alternatively, I've read that once you have the pH lowered that you could keep adding acid to the tank until enough anti-acids in the tank are used up that your pH will stablize. However, I question the impact that repeatedly adding acid to the tank would have on the fish, even with a stable pH. Maybe someone can comment on that.
I apologize for the long initial post. Incidently, I did search for this topic and read a few other similar threads, but I still felt compelled to post anyway. I hope you all don't mind the redundancy. Again, it's good to be back!
Bennu
Last edited:
) but in the interest of keeping the thread going...