Building My LED Light

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1oooop

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actually, it's less with more voltage, it rises exponentially with greater voltage , believe me, I had a yellow LED and I did a test on it, one I gave it's correct voltage, the other, I put about 3 volts. The next thing I know, its so hot and changed its color to orange. LEDs are kind of like indicasents, they have a burn area that dissapears when they are bad, I tested one with 12v which fryed it, and I noticed most of the emmiting part of the LED was gone
 

Que

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I don't know what they mean on the website by "Max Continuous Current 350 mA". But maybe someone else knows if 8-10hrs per day is considered continuous.
The point thats being made here by Xythadar is if the max continuous rating is what you would be operating the LEDs at and that is 350mA with 80 lumens then 6 LEDs times 80 is 480 lumens of output.

I think if you hooked these up with 700mA for continuous use you'd get a shorter lifespan out of them.

Q
 

traelman

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Jun 11, 2008
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Well I'm back..............

Since I had to stop my mail for a week, I hope that I can get my LEDs Monday.


Thankfully my good friend was able to feed my fish this week!!!!

Thanks Tom...........

I want to tell everyone how much I LOVE my wife, we just had a wonderfull week in OC, MD. Now that we are back home, I am going to get down to business with my project..........

I could not do it without my "Anniversary Gift Card", for Lowes.........
Thanks Steph ................I Love You
:headbang2::headbang2::headbang2::headbang2::headbang2:
 

1oooop

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Welcome Back, you didn't tell us you were leaving... I kinda missed you... BTW, why cool white? I prefer purple with a few whites(enhances color and I think it's good for plants)
 

SuBXeRo

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LED's are kind of like incandescents. LED's have a working voltage range usualy +- 2 volts max. A change in color most likely represents the burning of the diode inside. You can always underpower an LED but over powering is when you have issues. They give you a voltage range to work with because power sources vary in voltage output and can have spikes. Its usually best to stay at the recommended voltage because of said instances and you really dont want to burn the diode out. I have popped many LED's in my experience and it ****in scares me everytime i do it. These luxeons are designed to work at 700ma and a decrease in lifespan would be minimal at best since it is in its "working" range.

The max continuous amps is refering to how much current it can handle consistantly. 1000ma was stated as the max, for you to acheive that, you would have to increase the voltage. You want to try and achieve your 145 lumens, you need to put 3.15 volts to achieve the 145 lumens and 700ma current. The max voltage rating is 4, so im assuming that woud produce the 1000ma and max lumen output. Now the luxeon main doc says typical voltage of 3.4 volts to achieve 700ma, i would go with that spec over the rest. Its rally annoying how there are like 10 different versions of specs for the same info.

If i were you, run them in parallel so that that if one burns out, they all dont burn out. Series would work if you put 3 of them inline, but if one goes they all go just like christmas lights.
Now i dont kow how muh further you have gotten, but this is general knowledge for you and everyone else as well, for thos who are newer to this stuff.

btw, those are def good options, what i have been looking for :) i think i might be using those as well, just the tricolor ones for mixing and stuff. Ontop of that, i plan on putting them to dimmer switches :). I like the site your getting them from, better than oznium in this case, woot.
 
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traelman

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Whats happening 1oooop...
I just got back from vacation at the beach in Ocean City MD. I picked up a weeks worth of mail yesterday and my LEDs have arrived. When I got them home and opened the box, I was shocked. These things are freakin tiny. The star is about the size of a nickel, while the LED itself is like the size of a match head. I've heard people talk about how small these things are, but actually seeing them is a different story. Hopefully I can get some pictures up with some good comparisons so everyone can get an idea of there size.
 

1oooop

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yup, thay are tiny, that's why I would get 10 watt instead of these puny guys
I'd probably have to get a complex lends system for the 10 watt tho... LOL the 10 watt's freaking the size of a dime!!
 

traelman

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Welcome Back, you didn't tell us you were leaving... I kinda missed you... BTW, why cool white? I prefer purple with a few whites(enhances color and I think it's good for plants)

The "cool white" refers to the color temperature. The ratings from the spec sheet are 4500k(min), 6500k (typical), 10000 k (max). Most retail type lights for aquariums PC, flourescents, are in this range also. From what I've been able to read, the higher the number (4500k-7000k) the more vivid the detail will be.
 
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traelman

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Well it is finally time to get out some tools.
I now have all of the components for the light portion of my project:
1. 6 star LEDs
2. 1 BuckPuck 1000mA DC LED Driver
3. 1 Heatsink
4. 1 ATX computer power supply
5. 1 Cooling fan
My first order of business will be to modify an old computer power supply, so that I can use it for different voltages to "drive" the fan and the LEDs.

Someone had mentioned that I should use an old computer power supply, after a little research I found this a useful and conveinent thing to do. These are some links to various sites with detailed instructions on how to do this.

I like this one the best.
How to Convert a Computer ATX Power Supply to a Lab Power Supply

There is tons of cool stuff here.
Instructables

I'll try and post some pics soon.
 
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