bulbs - the money pit

[Ace25]

Overdriving bulbs reduces the lifespan. I knew that going in and was prepared to replace bulbs at that schedule. That said...

On a normal ballast, I think 9 months is a good time to replace MH and actinics. I have gone as long as 12 months and you definately see a much bigger increase in intensity when you let bulbs go that long.

 

[GregAW]

I think the lamps that came with my fixture were not top of the line to begin with, so what brand and "K" values would you recommend?

 

[Ace25]

For a frag tank, 10k, I would like to see someone pick up one of those new Anthony Calfo Signature Series Icecap bulbs they have at MarineDepot and give a review. In a frag tank your going for growth, not best color, so that is why I recommend a 10k.

 

[Amphiprion]

The XM 10000K bulbs have good PAR. Even more so with single ended lamps, since the glass shields drop the overall level of light.

 

[GregAW]

This is a double ended bulb. What about the other 2 lights? Who makes the XM bulbs?

 

[GregAW]

For a frag tank, 10k, I would like to see someone pick up one of those new Anthony Calfo Signature Series Icecap bulbs they have at MarineDepot and give a review. In a frag tank your going for growth, not best color, so that is why I recommend a 10k.

For the time being, I would like both, growth and color. I know, I'm greedy!!

 

[Amphiprion]

The 10K should still yield good color, depending upon the coral. It should accent a nice broad range of colors in any case. XM makes XM . Use the T5s to accent everything else. I'd look into ATI blue + tubes or you can try a true actinic tube (I prefer UVL or Giesemann for the latter).

Edit: I should add that the blue + will be much brighter (= more growth).

 

[Cory Keeper]

Ummm, 13 years? Ok, yes, I have LEDs and not PC, T5 or MH...... I think you grasped my reasoning here. Only options for my pico anyway were MH and LED. Just guess why LEDs won out.