Calcium Reactor Issues

fsn77

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Feb 22, 2006
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I finally decided to break down and buy a calcium reactor set up, hoping that once I get it dialed in, it would save me from needing to spend so much time dosing. I'm also hoping it'll provide calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium at a more constant rate and eliminate peaks and valleys in their concentrations. Unfortunately, in trying to get it set up right, I'm spending 2x - 3x as much time as I would if I was just dosing the tank. LOL

I've already worked through having the lid leak, which was an easy fix just by using some plumber's silicone grease on the o-ring. As obvious as that fix seemed to the other hobbyists and even the reactor's manufacturer once I asked what I was doing wrong, I wish that would have been mentioned in the reactor's instructions (I didn't want to put anything on it that would attack the acrylic or the o-ring). As simple as it was, it would have saved me a couple days of frustration if I would have known that sooner.

Now, I'm having problems with the CO2 delivery system. It has a leak or maybe multiple leaks. In about a week, I burned through an entire 5 lb CO2 tank that I was told should last me several months. I'm using a new Reef Fanatic regulator and installed a new Dennerle CO2 check valve just after the needle valve / solenoid assembly on the regulator in addition to the cheap looking check valve supplied with the reactor (per the reactor's instructions -- it says to use both). While I haven't been able to confirm it, I fear the leak may be at the cheap looking check valve, as it only has push on connections (no crimping screw fittings or clamps).

Does anyone have any tips for leak proofing the CO2 system?
In total, I have 7 connections -- and 7 potential points for it to leak --where the regulator connects to the tank (easy to seal with the washer and teflon tape), the connection at the output of the needle valve, 2 connections on the Dennerle check valve, 2 connections at the cheap looking check valve, the connection to the reactor itself.

I just got a new tank of CO2 today and don't want to burn through it again in another 7 days. I did put the connections I could in soapy water while I still had CO2 pressure last week, but didn't see any of the few I was able to test leaking. Even then, the cheap check valve connections didn't seem to be leaking, but from a visual standpoint, it seems like an obvious place since there's nothing but the push on connection holding the tubing in place.

Any :help: would be appreciated, before I go :y220d: or :angryfire:. Thank you.
 
Take some soapy water and apply it lightly onto any suspected areas and watch for growing bubbles. 5 lb cylinders in 1 week is definitely not right.
 
I think I may have found the major leak. I connected a full CO2 tank and checked all the inline connections, only to find no leaks. Then, I decided to check where the regulator screws onto the tank. Of course, it is leaking there, which means it was probably leaking there before. It been awhile since I've messed with gas cylinders and regulators, and I apparently forgot how much Teflon tape and tightening is required. I'll keep checking a couple times a day until I'm satisfied it is not leaking, but I think I may have found my problem.

Between the o-ring on the lid and regulator connection at the tank, I must admit I feel like setting up this calcium reactor is one big duh moment after another.
 
Make sure that the O-ring is there and seated properly. Don't use teflon tape, since if a piece comes off, it will clog the regulator and/or solenoid and ruin it. I killed two full regulator/solenoids before I figured this out (it is also warned against by several major organizations, like the ACS, etc.) I've noticed that it can sometimes interfere with the seal, also. Just use the bare connection along with the O-ring and it should be fine.
 
By o-ring, do you mean the plastic washer that goes between the end of the tank threads and end of the regulator? That's what the regulator came with to put between them. Oddly enough, the instructions on the regulator say to use Teflon tape. Now that it's working, I think I'm going to leave it. Once this small tank is run through, I'll try getting it to seal without using the Teflon tape when I connect the 5 lb tank. I have a 2.5 lb tank that I picked up with a smaller Ca reactor that I had filled to use try and find the leaks in the system before connecting the 5 lb tank again.
 
Hmm, just a plastic washer, huh? Just try out your idea and see how it works. I don't know if the washer will be enough to keep it tight, but you definitely don't want teflon tape.
 
Yeah, there's no o-ring... it's flat end on regulator meets flat end on threads of tank, nut on regulator threads onto outside threads on tank. The end on the regulator looks like this (this isn't the regulator I have, but it's difficult to find a pic online that shows that end of the regulator and this one is the same)...
NU-1564.jpg

(pic from http://www.scientificvisions.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=52)
 
As a general update, I still feel like there is a leak somewhere, even though I'm not getting bubbles from any of my connections anymore. I keep checking and rechecking the connections with soapy water, but my bubble count won't stay consistant and the working pressure (2nd gauge on the regulator) fluxuates (it started at almost 30 psi and is now under 20 psi -- remember that it is preset and I cannot adjust it). Both of those suggest a sizeable leak, don't they?

I kind of feel like I wasted my money on this regulator, especially since I've now had people tell me they run their CO2 delivery at only 5 psi, some 10 psi (the one I have is suppose to be around 2 - 3 kg/cm2, or 30+ psi). That's a pretty significant difference in the amount of pressure, and the likelihood of the pressure causing a leak.

I hate to say it, but I'm afraid that I'm going to go home tonight and find my 2.5 lb "test" cylinder empty. At this point, it only needs CO2 to maintain the reactor, as the pH in the reactor was 6.6 when I left this morning and the solenoid was switched off (pH controller).

Ultimately, I feel like this is way harder than it should be. The concept is so basic and things like this don't usually get the best of me.
 
None of that sounds right to me and it is being a lot more difficult than it should be. You should literally be able to tighten the thing on, start turning the regulator valve, and then regulate the needle valve and "Bam" you've got a reactor setup Emeril style. With the whole PSI thing, I honestly just use what works. The Milwaukee regulator I had operated on 20 PSI on my planted tank. So something's not quite right or you and I both are overlooking something critical.
 
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Well, I came home and everything seems ok, at least for now.

The reactor is holding at pH 6.6, with the solenoid on the regulator seemingily switching on and off as needed. I need to adjust the effluent flow rate, as I intentionally set it on the slow side initially hoping it would help the pH drop more quickly in the reactor itself.

I'm continuing to keep an eye on it, and keeping my fingers crossed.
 
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