Canister/Pump Sizing

[James0816]

Reading other threads and such has really sparked my curiosity on canister filters (either a DIY one or store bought).

Let's say I have (4) 10g tanks and I want to hook them up to one canister filter or even a sump.

Now I know that in order for this to work, I would have to employ the use of a manifold and (4) seperate ball valves.

The question is...how do you determine what size pump you need to be able to evenly draw from all (4) tanks and then be able to return the water as well?

 

[CWO4GUNNER]

That's an easy question. For the most part whether one tank or several, take the total number of gallons be filtered (40 gallons) and decide how much "turn-over" you want plus another 10% for plumbing resistance. Some like 3X the amount of gallons, some 5X and some like myself 10X. I recommend a pump rated at 400 to 600 GPH.

 

[jones57742]

Reading other threads and such has really sparked my curiosity on canister filters (either a DIY one or store bought).

Let's say I have (4) 10g tanks and I want to hook them up to one canister filter or even a sump.

Now I know that in order for this to work, I would have to employ the use of a manifold and (4) seperate ball valves.

JD:

This will not work.

The valves cannot be adjusted finely enough.

You will wind up with a dry tank or a large puddle.

This can be made to work with overflows from tank to tank. A small hydraulic gradient will exist between the tanks.

The question is...how do you determine what size pump you need to be able to evenly draw from all (4) tanks and then be able to return the water as well?

500gph.

TR

 

[James0816]

So you're saying valves won't work in the situation? Interesting. Please enlighten me grasshoppa.

Granted, I know nothing about this as it was just something that popped into my head. But would definately like to learn. I was originally thinking overflows, but that could be a lot of pipe work. Figured valves, while a little more pricey, would work better.

 

[archer772]

As your plumbing starts to collect any kind of debri and or algea your flow rates could change. With pumps even tho you get 2 of the same pumps they may not perform exactlly the same as in 2x500 gph pumps 1 may be 495gph and the other 510gph and I say this because I have tried it for an experiment and it wouldnt work. The best way I see this working would be too drill all your tanks and have them be on shorter stands by about 2 inches and then have them drain into the next with the last one drain into a sump and have a return pump go to the first one in line.

 

[CWO4GUNNER]

A sump container & over-flows is the easiest way however instead of using a sump pump, you could use a canister filter plumbed inline in place of the sump pump (uptake & return) and it will work great, provided you maintain a deep enough sump level for the canister pick-up hose.

 

[CWO4GUNNER]

Here is a concept I have been thinking of and have modified to this final version. The standard multi-tank LFS setup filtered by the commonly used sump, overflows, and manifold system, however in lieu of a sump pump the canister & canister pump is used providing the best of both worlds in filtering for a multi-tank filtering system.

 

[jones57742]

The best way I see this working would be too drill all your tanks and have them be on shorter stands by about 2 inches and then have them drain into the next with the last one drain into a sump and have a return pump go to the first one in line.

a7:

Believe it or not the step downs will not be necessary as any reasonably sized over flow will work. Per the weir equation 1 linear foot of weir per tank will only generate 3/8" of water surface increase at 550gph.

Per Bernoulli's equation a submerged 2" pipe will carry 800gph and will generate only 1/4" of increase in water surface elevation.

TR

 

[mott]

Here is a concept I have been thinking of and have modified to this final version. The standard multi-tank LFS setup filtered by the commonly used sump, overflows, and manifold system, however in lieu of a sump pump the canister & canister pump is used providing the best of both worlds in filtering for a multi-tank filtering system.

Wouldn't the canister need to be below the sump?
Plus if you have a sump why add a canister?

 

[CWO4GUNNER]

Wouldn't the canister need to be below the sump?
Plus if you have a sump why add a canister?

The top of the canister would have to be even or slightly below the sump water line placing the canister pump at least 7" below the sump waterline. So yes, you would have to lower the canister appropriately but not underneath and not very much.

The sump itself would not look like a traditional sump in the diagram, it would be tall and narrow like an auto-fill tanks but taller about 30" and only 10 gallons, and in fact it would be just that an auto fill reservoir with no media except forr maybe a pre-filter sponge.

The whole point is to be able to find a way to use my one FX5 to filter 2 twin 80 tanks evenly and have an auto-fill system, and it occured to me that what was considered not possible could work easily by using just those parts from a sump system in a streamlined version, again for a multi-tank system which entails nothing more extra then a reservoir tank and over-flows since all the rest (plumbing piping) would be required anyway. So this make it a valid stand alone concept, not just an add-on.