Canopy for 40 gallon breeder

[koipoloi]

I am designing a canopy for a 40 gallon breeder. This is for a planted tank So i am going to use compact flourescents. I drew up the following in google sketchup. I planned for the canopy being 8" high made of plywood with a framework of 1x2.

I left a 3" inset at the lower back for filters, etc. and will have the top front with a door 5" wide.
I have never built a canopy so for those that have, do you think this design will work? Specifically do you think a height of 8" will give me room to mount sockets and cf bulbs?

 

[drdud]

I am curious about this. I would like to make a canopy, too. I am worried about how much weight I can rest on top of the tank. Do you plan on mounting the CFS vertical or horizonal? Also, when you gravel vacuum do you remove the canopy? What type of hinges? I have only seen threads on canopy construction in extremely basic terms. Maybe someone can share some details?

 

[koipoloi]

I think if made of 1/4" plywood and 1x2's weight wouldn't be much of an issue. I plan to buy 2 double socket incandescent light fixtures which will make 3 or 4 cfc bulbs mounted horizontally across the top.

 

[myswtsins]

How is this going to sit on the tank? You want to have it overlap the tank edge so it does not move around.

I don't know how your 3" back inset will work out but I if you will have HOB I want not want it splashing on the brace in front of it and it will probably interfere with glass tops (if you use them). I would make it open nearly in half instead of just 5" for easy access but there are tons of designs out there so I won't get into that.

8" from the rim to inside top of the canopy should be plenty of space and I use piano hinges. I have been using my design on a couple tanks for years now and the only thing that bothers me is on my 72 bowfront I can't open the glass tops all the way because they hit the lights, only way I can think of fixing it is making the lights (and canopy) higher and I don't like super high canopies so I deal with it.

 

[koipoloi]

I planned to make the plywood sheathing just a bit wider than the frame making it overhang 1/2" on 3 sides I also thought a cleat on the inside of the frame that grabs the aquarium edge should prevent wiggle. I thought about moving the back brace in more than 3 inches but thought that would interfere with the light. HOB will be an aquaclear 70 and 3" looks ample but may not be. Your design is neat. Is there something that grabs the aquarium edge so it doesn't slide around while open? Thanks for the input. Any other ideas welcomed.

 

[myswtsins]

Sounds good. I do not have an anti-wiggle lip on that one because it never gave me trouble but I do have them on the 72g. It is just an extra long piece of cleat in the back.

What wattage CF are you thinking? The higher watt ones get pretty big, just keep that in mind.