Carbon - is there really any difference in the types?

saganco

RIP my precious kitty baby
Oct 29, 2006
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Colorado
I am shopping to replace my diminished supplies of media and find all sorts of "sales pitches" for various types of carbon. Professional grade, granular, pelletized, coconut carbon, etc...

Is there truly any difference in any of them, or should I just go for the best "bang for the buck" and be done? I'm so confused...:huh:
 
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Shapes don't matter unless you are putting it in something that needs a certain type. When I shop for carbon for my pond I say "The more the price, the more it removes".
 
Do you really think "more expensive is better"? Seems like charcoal is charcoal, no matter how it's shaped or packaged... but then... that's why I'm asking here isn't it!? :confused:
 
Cheaper carbons that you can buy anywhere are much more pourus and are used for air filtering, this carbon dosent remove as many contaminants. More expensive activated carbons are much much less pourus and dont emit as much phosphate, which is unhealthy for your fish. Stick with premium carbon.
 
Some options for "good" carbon:

Black Diamond Carbon 68oz - $17.99
Hydro Carbon 4 Liter Bucket - $29.99
Matrix Carbon 2L - $25.99
Coralife Pelletized Scientific Grade Carbon 16oz - $3.99
Fluval Carbon 1650g Jar (58.20 oz.) (Hagen) - $21.99

Best value without going crazy over miniscule differences??
 
I would say Fluval because I always buy their stuff and never had a problem
 
there are many types of carbon sold for aquarium use but VERY FEW of these are actually capable of adsorption in water. only HIGH QUALITY ACTIVATED GRANULAR carbon which has been degassed in an oxygen oven at temperatures close to 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit is functional --- anything else is worthless. i can recommend Marineland activated granular carbon in this regard though there may be others. degassing enlarges the apparent surface area of each carbon granule, thus greatly increasing the adsorptive capacity.

look for activated carbon which is phosphate free. a great many carbon grades are washed with phosphoric acid in an effort to support the adsorption sites since this is cheaper than degassing. this phosphate will leach into your aquarium water and can reult in a major algae problem.

deep beds of Granular Activated Carbon (GAC) are always more effective than shallow ones of equal area. also, for a given amount of GAC the smaller the granules, the greater the adsorptive capacity. generally, there needs to be 4 to 10 grams of GAC for every gallon of water depending on stocking density. such carbon beds typically last only a month at best and more typically 2-3 weeks since most hobbyists tanks are overstocked.

if your filter uses prepackaged cartridges containing carbon, realize that these cartridges typically contain poor quality carbon and if quality carbon is used, only 20 percent or less of the recommended amounts of GAC is present. you can slit open the cartridge and fill them with more GAC but many pad filter types simply will not hold that much. thus, the carbon in the vast majority of filter pads on the market simply are not functioning.
 
I stand with the Marineland brand.

Do not get phosphate washed stuff.
 
I think I'd be better off putting something else in that media tray and just forgetting the carbon - 'specially since we have heavily planted tanks with ferts and such. Not exactly sure what the best choice to use in that fluval tray would be, but I think most anything but carbon after reading more in the plant forums.
 
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