Cichlid Lake Salt or Not?

I recommend you do at least some basic research before making claims like this. Because if you had, you would notice that actually, "Baking soda, Table salt and Epsom salt" are nothing like what "Those expensive LFS additives" are. You claim to match the water to the fish, yet have no understanding of the chemistry involved. For example if we look at Seachem's Cichlid Lake Salt, they don't refer to common table salt (sodium chloride). They are in fact referring to mineral salts. Here is what is actually in Seachem's Cichlid Lake Salt:


Calcium (min)
3.24 %


Calcium (max)
3.50 %


Magnesium (min)
11.83 %


Potassium (min)
10.08 %


Sodium (min)
3.53 %


Sodium (max)
3.75 %


Aluminum (min)
0.90 mg


Iodine (min)
0.02 mg


Iron (min)
0.20 mg

Amounts per 1 gram.
Ingredients: magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, potassium sulfate, sodium chloride, aluminum sulfate, iron sulfate, potassium iodide,

You'll notice, there is no "common table salt (sodium chloride)" in Cichlid Lake Salt. If you do a little more research, you'll see that Seachem actually flew to Africa and analyzed the mineral content of all three lakes. This is how they came up with the formulation of their salt. And if you use Cichlid Lake Salt, African Cichlid Buffer & Cichlid Trace according to the instructions, you will actually have the closest possible match to their natural environment.

Also it doesn't matter if fish are wild caught or not, these animals have grown and evolved in their natural environment for a very long time. Their DNA is not going to change just because they are captive bread and raised. They still require a similar environment to thrive. And as hobbyists and caretakers, it is our responsibility to provide the best environment possible to these animals.

I suggest reading these articles. I found them very well written and informative:
The_Art_and_Science_of_Aquarium_Management
African_Cichlids

I can tell you from experience. 85% of customers that I sell the line too, come back 1-2 weeks later raving about how much better the Cichlid's look and behave.

Do us, your fish and yourself a favor - try the program, the entire program (Cichlid Buffer, Cichlid Trace and Cichlid Lake Salt). Just for two weeks. Then post back here what you find. Watch and look at your fish now, do a large water change and start dosing according to the instructions. And after two weeks compare their behavior and coloration. then post back and let us know what you think.

Another tip, try Dainichi's Cichlid food. Most cheap fish foods are like Ol Roy - It slowly starves your dog of nutrition. Same with fish food. Your fish are what they eat. You'll have less waste in the aquarium because the fish digest more of it, which means less goes out the rear, which in turn means less maintenance and higher quality water.

Sorry the post is so long - Hope it helps.

--Mike
You stated in this post that Seachem cichlid salt "contains no common table salt, (sodium chloride). As a matter of fact you stated it exactly one line below where it's listed in the ingredients! Back in the late 70s and early 80s the overwhelming majority of Africans were coming out of the Tampa FL area where they were raised in ponds filled with natural groundwater, which in that area is moderately hard with a pH in the mid 7s.
 
You stated in this post that Seachem cichlid salt "contains no common table salt, (sodium chloride). As a matter of fact you stated it exactly one line below where it's listed in the ingredients! Back in the late 70s and early 80s the overwhelming majority of Africans were coming out of the Tampa FL area where they were raised in ponds filled with natural groundwater, which in that area is moderately hard with a pH in the mid 7s.

:duh:
Oops, my bad. A little egg in my face there. But the rest of the post still stands and is very valid.
You will notice that sodium chloride is listed fourth, meaning that there are more of the prior leading ingredients (magnesium chloride, calcium chloride & potassium sulfate)

--Mike
 
FWIW, my water is pH 7.8, GH 9(170ppm) and KH 4.5(80ppm) and I add nothing. With the parameters you posted, I see no reason for you to add anything unless you are keeping the most delicate of species. My fish thrive and breed regularly, and I also keep WC Syno Multipunctatus in the same water. I have also never had a pH crash due to a low KH, even after rare intervals of 12-14 days between water changes. If memory serves, for Malawi anyway, Konings even mentions a minumum KH of only 3. But to each his own, do what works for you.
 
I did not read all the replys. Here's my opinion, a stable pH of 7.8 is fine. If your GH & KH levels are hard enough to buffer your water and keep a consistent 7.8 pH without big swings, I'd say your are OK.

Salt: Use epsom salt, it has the key ingredient (magnesium sulfate) and is much cheaper. It has worked well for me.

Hope that helps.

Russ
 
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I did not read all the replys. Here's my opinion, a stable pH of 7.8 is fine. If your GH & KH levels are hard enough to buffer your water and keep a consistent 7.8 pH without big swings, I'd say your are OK.

Salt: Use epsom salt, it has the key ingredient (magnesium sulfate) and is much cheaper. It has worked well for me.

Hope that helps.

Russ

Plus there have been some studies(I can't find the link at the moment) that suggest that Espom salts are also a natural laxative which may not only help to prevent bloat, but as a concentrated mixture directly fed, cure it.
 
You are right, Rcr. I have cured and saved 3 cichlids with bloat, just adding Epsom salt to the water. Hey, my parents gave me many times when I was a child, a solution of Epsom salt diluted in water; I had to drink it (:yuck:) with mom in front of me holding a belt on her hand and looking to me in a very intimidating way. It cured my bloat very quickly every time I drank it, so I know very well how it works inside the fishes. Poor little creatures! :shakehead:
 
LOL Efors!:lol2: Makes you wonder why we keep any other fancy meds around, for us and the fish!
 
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