CL pressure

xsdbs

xsdbs

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Oct 16, 2006
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I have a CL set up in my tank using a Hammerhead pump and an Oceans Motions 4 way drum. I have to remove the 4 Way to send it in for R&R. the drum is making an awful knocking sound about every 15 - 20 sec. I have 1.5" in out of the tank to the pump and 1.5" to the 4 way. I then have (4) 1" outputs into the tank. The 4 Way is mounted above my tank and in the middle (tank is 60" long). My question here is:
I want to keep the CL working till I get the replacement so I will come off the pump 1.5" across the tank and then go from 1.5" T's to 1" at the tank. Will I be better off connecting the 1.5 from the pump into the main line in the center or at the end of the line. Will I have the same amount of pressure starting at the beginning of the line or will I start to lose pressure because water is being put into the line but is exiting from the 1st (1") to the 2nd to the 3rd and finally to the 4th? I hope my explanation is clear and not confusing.
Thanks for any input here.
 
Hard to picture your setup without pics.. took me a few reads to get a mental picture.

As for your question, it is better to put the Ts as far from the pump and as close to the tank as possible to maintain the most pressure. I think that was your questions. If possible, while the 4-way is out being repaired, you may want to just T off the CL to just 2 holes and keep the other 2 holes you have closed. Splitting a 1.5" line 4 times will give you really low pressure at the output side. Maybe that was what you were saying in your post.. early and confused here.. don't mind me.
 
Thanks for the input, here are pics of the 4way installed. You can see the (4) 1" lines into the tank. What I was thinking of doing was to remove the plumbing and the 4 way. I would then have the (4) 1" PVC into the tank so I thought about running a 1'5" line across the tank into 1.5" T's reduced to 1" into the tank. I see by math that the (4) 1" lines would be wrong and I am seriously wondering if I would have dead space with only 2 outlets making movement in the tank.
What about a 1.5" manifold housing (9) 1/2" outputs across the tank with 1/2" 45's. The issue that I don't want is mostly the dead spots that cause the diatom algae that I was having with powerheads. If you have a better thought please mention it. At his point honestly I am fed up with the 4Way. I haven't really been happy especially at nearly $400 for it. Thanks again.

4way-2.jpg 4way-1.jpg 4way-4-3.jpg
 
Basically, I'd go with the 1.5" while reducing at the very last possible point--i.e. in the tank. That would preserve the maximum amount of volume and the reduction would allow you to regain pressure at the last minute without sacrificing nearly as much volume. Pressure is important, but volume is even more so. The 1/2" is a bad idea, IMHO, as you'll be sacrificing too much. Try the 4-way like I suggested and play with the positioning a bit more and see if that doesn't work out for you.
 
Amphiprion said:
Basically, I'd go with the 1.5" while reducing at the very last possible point--i.e. in the tank. That would preserve the maximum amount of volume and the reduction would allow you to regain pressure at the last minute without sacrificing nearly as much volume. Pressure is important, but volume is even more so. The 1/2" is a bad idea, IMHO, as you'll be sacrificing too much. Try the 4-way like I suggested and play with the positioning a bit more and see if that doesn't work out for you.
Click to expand...


Thanks Amp,
The 4way is out of the tank right now, as I mentioned I had to send it back for replacement. The 4way is built to have 1.5" into it and then it has threaded 1" outs. Paul @ Oceans Motions had me put (2) 1" down the outside corners of the tank, under the sand up to the front of the tank. Each are 15" from center (30" apart) and about 3" from the front glass. The 2 in the middle are the same distance apart but drop straight down into the tank and about 4" from the bottom. The fronts have 45's facing the rear of the tank and the rears have 90's facing forward. This is supposed to cause a rolling motion in the tank. I have yet to be able to get it to "roll" without dead spots where brown diatom builds up (water params are in line). The unit is being sent in because it has a violent knocking about every 15 -20 seconds. I spent nearly $400 for the unit and have been considering getting a refund and going to a wavemaker instead. I am just a bit irritated right now because in order to install the PVC into the tank and then under the sand I had to remove all the rocks, place them into a rubbermaid container, do the plumbing and then rescape. This ended up being a bit tedious because I used 45's to create my 90 angles so I woul have less restriction. Whatever I do now has to incororate the front lines unless I take the tank back down. I don't think it would be good just to leave them in without water movement thru them (?I think the water inside would go stagnet?) Thanks again
 
Don't give up yet. Paul is a great guy and really knows his stuff. He helped my friend Guillo1 on here setup and tweak his OM4-Way on his 300G and it is amazing. It takes quite a bit of tweaking at first and possibly a different model OM4 to get the right flow pattern you need but once you do they are top notch.
 
I thought it also had 1.5 out--maybe I saw a custom model or something or just thought I saw 1.5". The rolling motion is supposed to simulate a gyre, which many people seem to like, but I, too, have never been satisfied with the motion they provide. Depending on the tank, there are too many spots that are deficient. My suggestion is to play with the positioning as much as possible until you are satisfied with it, not someone else. I won't even give you a positioning suggestion like some, because I don't believe the answer is that easy, straightforward, or generalized. You're just going to have to experiment with it. One other suggestion is to use spaflex tubing instead of PVC for any turns. That, if anything, should preserve more volume and pressure without some of the intricacies of using regular, rigid PVC.
 
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