Cleaning canister filter

thebach

AC Members
Jan 23, 2005
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How often should you clean a canister filter, and how often should you replace your carbon? Also, if I wanted to add peat to my filter at what position should it be in? My filter is rated for a 75 gallon aquarium and I have a 20 gallon tank.
 
How often to clean? about once a month.

How often to change carbon? Your call. Carbon usually isn't doing anything useful after a few days anyway. I don't even use carbon in my filters anymore.

Peat position? No idea, as i've never used peat before. I figure it would probably need to be placed after mechanical filtration though.

Hope this helps!
 
Let the water flow determine when to break it down. As big a filter as you got on a relatively small tank you shouldn't have to touch it more than every two to three months or so. My canister is rated for 75g and I have it on a heavily planted 65g and I clean it every two months.

Like was mentioned previously carbon is pretty much a waste of money unless you are trying to get medication out of the tank. Use the basket that has the carbon for more ceramics, filter floss or a sponge. I would put the peat in the top basket.
 
Part of the answer has to do with the extent to which solid wastes become trapped inside the filter (i.e., mechanical filtration). Mech filtration is most helpful when you export the waste BEFORE it is broken down by bacteria to become dissolved compounds and nitrates. If you have a canister filter that takes in solid waste, and then you don't clean the filter for months, all that crud will break down and become pollution in your water. Your water may LOOK cleaner, because stuff isn't floating around, but the levels of nitrates and other pollutants will rise.

There are a couple of solutions. One easy solution is to prefilter your canisters by using a sponge of some sort over the intake. The sponge can be easily cleaned every week (or less, if you prefer) to export the crud before it breaks down.

Another easy solution to separate filtration tasks. Have a prefiltered canister packed as bio-only (i.e., loaded with ceramic noodles and/or bioballs, and nothing else) to provide biofiltration and a second filter, preferably one with easy-to-clean and durable media, to provide mechanical filtration. The bio-filter canister can go a very long time (months, at least) without being cleaned, and the mech filter media can be cleaned regularly.

For a 20, if you were to use only your single filter, a prefilter sponge will go a LONG way to keep the inside of the canister from loading up with crud that will break down into pollution.

There are several routes to prefilter, none of which are very expensive. If you're interested, just ask.

HTH,
Jim
 
The easiest is the FilterMax III... a number of online pet stores carry it. It has adapters to fit the intake tube of almost any canister. Total cost is usually about $8.

You can also find cylindrical sponges (made for sponge filters) that will just slip over the intake tube. (I drill holes in the side of the intake tube where it's covered by the sponge, to increase the water flow.) I don't know of a particular brand to recommend... I used to get the Tetra Super Brilliant sponges, but I think Tetra discontinued them. I have done any trial and error (via mail order) to find an alternative, but I'm sure there several that would work.

HTH,
Jim
 
No carbon? I didn't know that but like the idea since carbon costs so much. I'll add more of the bio ceramic stuff instead. I think I forgot to mention I have an undergravel filter too along with canister rated for tank over 3 times my size.
 
I set up my eheim 2215 canister on New Years Eve. It said to remove the carbon sandwich after 2 weeks (I suppose its exhausted at this point) I replaced the carbon with a top layer of filter floss. I have ceramic noodles, biomax, a blue sponge, and a layer of filter floss. The water is very clear. I'd say once a month because you have to check the mechanical parts, like the impeller and take off any gunk to keep it running smoothly.

Eheim has the shut off valves, that makes taking away the canister easier. Just shut off the hoses and disconnect. Just this makes the price well worth it.
 
thebach said:
No carbon? I didn't know that but like the idea since carbon costs so much. I'll add more of the bio ceramic stuff instead. I think I forgot to mention I have an undergravel filter too along with canister rated for tank over 3 times my size.


Unless you are trying to remove something (e.g., meds, some kind of toxin) carbon generally isn't needed. Many (most?) of us don't even use it.

Jim
 
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