Cloudy Freshwater . . Help !!

Wolverines

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I HAVE A NEWLY SET UP 55 GALLON FRESHWATER TANK WITH THREE TIN FOIL BARBS, ONE GREEN SEVERUM, TWO VERY SMALL TIGER BARBS, AND ONE SMALL ALGAE EATER. I HAVE A BRAN-NEW FLUVAL 404 CANISTER FILTER WHICH PUMPS 360 GPH. I SET UP MY TANK FOR THE FIRST TIME ON NOVEMBER 22ND 2003 WHICH WAS JUST 10 DAYS AGO AND THE DARN WATER HAS TURNED A LIME COLOR OR HAS A CLOUDY LOOK TO IT. I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 10 GALLON, WHAT THE ARE MY DOING HERE.
I WOULD GIVE ANYTHING TO BE ABLE TO MAINTAIN A CLEAR FRESHWATER TANK. CAN ANYONE GIVE ME ANY INFO. ON THIS OR TELL ME WHAT IM DOING WRONG.

MARTIN

MEMPHIS TN.:shake:
 
Hi Martin,

If your water is lime green, you have a bloom of unicellular algae. It can be a pain, but there are a number of of ways to deal with it.

Algae needs light and nutrients to thrive. You can reduce one or both and you should be able to control the algae. To reduce nutrients, make sure you're doing enough water changes to keep food sources at a low level. If your tank is only a week old, you're probably still cycling. That means you have levels of ammonia and/or nitrites that exceed zero ppm. (If you're not familiar with the concept of cycling, visit the newbies part of these forums and you'll see many threads on cycling and how to survive it.) In addition to liking ammonia/nitrites, algae also like phosphates. These are sometimes found in some levels in tap water, but the more common source is in pH buffers like Proper pH and similar products. If you're using one of those, you should let us know, as it will affect any suggestions. You can also reduce nutrients to the algae by cutting back on your feedings to every other day or every third day. This will also help ammonia/nitrite build up less quickly as your tanks cycles.

Reducing lights is another way to control the algae. How much lighting do you have, and how long a day is it on? Is your tank situated in such a place that it gets hit with direct sunlight for any extended period of time? That would also be super for algae production. Some people advocate a total tank blackout for 24 or 48 hours to get the algae under control.

Finally, it would help if you could find out some water parameters for us. At a minimum, we need to know pH of your tank water and a sample of tap water (after the tap water has sat out overnight). Knowing the ammonia and nitrite levels would be helpful, too. (Many pet stores will test a sample of water for you if you don't have enough $$ to buy test kits yourself.)

Hope this helps,
Jim

P.S. In case you don't know... typing messages in all caps is considered the equivalent of yelling when posting on Web forums. It's also much harder to read. Just a friendly FYI....
 
Those tinfoil barbs will get too big for your 55 gallon. They can grow up to 14" long and need lots of swimming room.

I recommend taking them back and getting some more tigerbarbs (maybe four to six more), since they will get nippy with other fish in such a small group and bug the heck out of your severum.

Graeme
 
Thankyou

Thankyou very very much for the valuable information you have given me. I will test the water and get right back with you Jim. I am very new to keeping freshwater fish and im loving my new hobby but it seems the only problem i seem to be having is this cloudy dull color that everyone seems to notice when they visit my home. I will try what you have told me and again thankyou very much and also i aplogize for the caps.

martin
 
JIM

I tested my aquarium water today on my 55 gallon freshwater tank abd this is what i came up with . . .

NITRATE 0
NITRITE 0
HARDNESS 75
ALKALINITY 180
PH 7.2

Martin
 
Did you get an ammonia tester with your test kit? That and nitrite are the two to really watch out for. The rest of your water parameters seem good. You may want to find out if your local water supply contains phosphates, which can also encourage algae growth.
 
I agree we need to know what the ammonia level is. Given that you have a new tank and you're showing zero nitrates, I'm guessing your tanks hasn't cycled yet. Have you read up on cycling? Visit the newbie section and see the threads on cycling to learn about the development of your biofilter and the nitogen cycle. That will be as helpful as anything we can tell you.

Until your tank has cycled, I'd not worry too much about the green water. You can cut all artificial light to the tank and reduce feedings to every 2nd or 3rd day. After you get an ammonia test, change enough water to keep ammonia at or below 1.5 ppm at all times.

Your KH is OK, so you don't have to worry about pH crash. What do you use to treat your water? Any type of dechlorinator? Any pH adjuster, etc.?

Jim
 
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