I agree with KarlTH and the others. Big water changes will not interfere with the progress of your cycling of the tank. Even when you find "no trace" of ammonia on your test, there is stlll enough ammonia present to feed the bacteria that love it.
Keeping the ammonia at undetectable levels will keep your fish safe from the toxic effect of ammonia.
As you keep doing this, the bacteria that eat ammonia will flourish, break it down into nitrite, which is more deadly than ammonia, so you have to keep the nitrite at undetectable levels as well.
Nitrite will stll be in there, enough to start to feed the nitrite loving bacteria, which, when in ample colony in your filter media and substrate, etc., will break nitrite down into nitrate, which plants love.
You still have to do water changes to remove nitrate to keep it at 20ppm or less.
Your fish will take a serious hit to their immune system if you allow any of those toxic by-products to be in your tank in detectable levels.*
This opens the way for parasitic or bacterial infections, and certainly causes unneeded suffering. Believe me, I'm speaking from experience. I had a 10 gallon as a beginner, and that should never be called a "beginner" tank. I also had fish in the tank from the start, and had to battle hard to keep the parameters correct.
Prime is a great water conditioner, as it not only removes chlorine and chloramines, but it detoxifies ammonia and nitrite for about 24 hours, which is HUGE. You still have to do water changes to remove the ammonia and nitrite, but Prime gives you some breathing room to do that in a less frantic mode and at a time that's more convenient, within the 24 hour period of course.
* Nitrates are good news. Once you begin to see them you know your tank is nearing full cycle. When ammonia is 0, nitrite 0, and nitrate at levels up to 20ppm, you know you're cycled.