CO2 questions and help picking system

nova60 said:
I'm also in the market for a CO2 system. Is it necessary to purchase a PH controller?
Click to expand...

no it's not most people use a drop checker like this one to measure how much CO2 is in the water. a Ph controler or monitors just monitors the ph level and thus the amount of co2 in the water when the ph drops below a set level it turns off the selinoid and once the PH comes back up it turns the selinoid back on letting CO2 through.
 
No a controller is not necessary, I have one just cause I like it :)

I'm running a ma957 all stock and I will say it's finicky but once you set it it's good to go UNTIL psi drops below 600 or so, it then shoots the working pressure to about 50 or 60 if you have it at the standard 20 psi.

So that is also why I run the controller BUT I keep a close eye on it just in case.
 
i didnt read a single post in this thread because my head hurts....hope i dont repeat anythign.

a paintball system on your tank = waste of time...you will be going back and forth replacing your paintball tank every 2 weeks almost and you will get sick of it:
co2 reg and tubing: water-testers.com
10# co2 tank (and tubing): aquariumplants.com
diffuser: run it through a powerhead or your cannister filter
Drop checker: ebay
4dkh solution (and drop checker): greenleafaquarium.com
Brass check valve: any of the above places should have a good brass check valve.
Bubble counter fluid: mineral oil from CVS, duane reede, walgreens, walmart....
 
Thanks! I'm trying to decide between the Milwaukee and the GLA. I have read a LOT of bad things about the Milwaukee, but some good things too. Have you personally tried either? Of course I would love to save money, but I want to be VERY sure my fish are safe foremost.

A few more questions...

1. Are powerheads or cannister filters as good as other types of diffusers?

2. I know people use airstones at night because the plants give off co2 when the lights are off. But if I wanted to use an airstone during the day too, just to be sure the fish have enough oxegyn would that reduce the co2, or can the two exist together?

3. When you do a large water change, does the co2 fluctuate from the co2 in the tap water?
 
jmm197 said:
Thanks! I'm trying to decide between the Milwaukee and the GLA. I have read a LOT of bad things about the Milwaukee, but some good things too. Have you personally tried either? Of course I would love to save money, but I want to be VERY sure my fish are safe foremost.

A few more questions...

1. Are powerheads or cannister filters as good as other types of diffusers?

2. I know people use airstones at night because the plants give off co2 when the lights are off. But if I wanted to use an airstone during the day too, just to be sure the fish have enough oxegyn would that reduce the co2, or can the two exist together?

3. When you do a large water change, does the co2 fluctuate from the co2 in the tap water?
Click to expand...
1. Powerheads and canisters are the best way to diffuse,IMO.

2. Don't use a airstone at all.

3. The CO2 levels will drop after a large water change.
 
jmm197 said:
Thanks! I'm trying to decide between the Milwaukee and the GLA. I have read a LOT of bad things about the Milwaukee, but some good things too. Have you personally tried either? Of course I would love to save money, but I want to be VERY sure my fish are safe foremost.

A few more questions...

1. Are powerheads or cannister filters as good as other types of diffusers?

2. I know people use airstones at night because the plants give off co2 when the lights are off. But if I wanted to use an airstone during the day too, just to be sure the fish have enough oxegyn would that reduce the co2, or can the two exist together?

3. When you do a large water change, does the co2 fluctuate from the co2 in the tap water?
Click to expand...




1. I like the inline reactor, I hate co2 bubbles floating around I have enough bubbles from my plants pearling like crazy!
The inline reactor takes care of that mixing Co2 against the pump flow and along your output with hardly any bubbles.
Be wary of injecting Co2 directly into a canister, Co2 gas can build up depending on BPS and cavitation could rear.

2. An airstone will defeat the purpose of injecting Co2, instead just aim the spraybar to the top to create a slight ripple, that's all I ever needed.

3. Ph will fluctuate but do not worry, myself and many many others do this every week with our water changes. Fish in the wild go through many Ph changes just fine.
 
I bought a nice dual stage reg off ebay for 25$.
These do not have any such issues with control, nor does a good quality needle valve, no dumps, no issues of any sort for decades......

Nupro Swaglok, and clippard, we got a big long thread with all the how to's and the DIY methods for a CO2 system.

I spend maybe 100-120$ for a top notch system, pick parts off ebay or vendors on line, Home Depot etc.

Tank: 40$ for 10lbs
Reg: 25$,
Nupro valve: 25$
Clippard solenoid: 20$-30$

These are common prices.

This will last you for the rest of you natural life and perhaps the kids' as well.

If you want to spend more, cannot srew pipe together.....you can buy the pre made all in one.

Good careful use of CO2 is the key there, not adding more light.
Already have BBA, adding more light will only make that worse. Focus on using the light you have, better.

CO2 is the way to do that.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 
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