im going with pressurized because my plants i want to get require high lighting and i don't think a DIY will work to well.
CO2 system at drsfostersmith
- Thread starter wannabefishguru
- Start date
DIY would work in your tank, but if you have the money get the pressurized system.
However, IMO the system you link to is way over the top price-wise and I have to agree with John in that some of the parts are not necessary.
Look for a used tank rather than a new one as the odds are that you'll be exchanging your tank empty for another used full one when you take it in.
These are the necessary pieces that if used correctly are really all you need.
A good regulator. Good needle valve. CO2-proof tubing. A passive or active reactor/diffuser of your choice. A pH and kH test kit.
With the above, you can start injecting 1 bubble every 2 seconds and adjust bubble rate from there according to your drop in pH. The other pieces are extras, IMO and nice to have if you want to spend the money, but hardly necessary to inject gas safely.
All of the above can be put together for approx. $100 and will be just as affective and safe as the one with all the bells and whistles. All of my systems are set up as I mention above and once set to deliver 25 - 35ppm/CO2 they never vary and therefore never need adjusting unless I want more or less ppm.
I've got needle valves that I haven't had to touch for over 2 years.
Len
However, IMO the system you link to is way over the top price-wise and I have to agree with John in that some of the parts are not necessary.
Look for a used tank rather than a new one as the odds are that you'll be exchanging your tank empty for another used full one when you take it in.
These are the necessary pieces that if used correctly are really all you need.
A good regulator. Good needle valve. CO2-proof tubing. A passive or active reactor/diffuser of your choice. A pH and kH test kit.
With the above, you can start injecting 1 bubble every 2 seconds and adjust bubble rate from there according to your drop in pH. The other pieces are extras, IMO and nice to have if you want to spend the money, but hardly necessary to inject gas safely.
All of the above can be put together for approx. $100 and will be just as affective and safe as the one with all the bells and whistles. All of my systems are set up as I mention above and once set to deliver 25 - 35ppm/CO2 they never vary and therefore never need adjusting unless I want more or less ppm.
I've got needle valves that I haven't had to touch for over 2 years.
Len
djlen said:
Len, how do you know that your system is delivering 25-35ppm.....do you measure that through the bubble count or determine that through the ph/kh chart.
where can i get a good regulator and needle valve and CO2 hose? do most regulators have solenoids on them? and if they come with them i don't have to use them only if i use a ph pinpoint thing, is this correct?
I have the Aqua Medic regulator and it has the needle valve as part of it. Price wise it's not the cheapest through big al's and I am sure you can find the same cheaper in the states somewhere, I'm sure someone will jump on it, there are a lot of resourcefull members here. As for the aqua medic regulator it's self, I am very pleased with it, I was using a pop regulator before and had a lot of problems with it. There are other regulators that have the needle valve, solinoid and bubble counter all in one like Milwaukee, I am not sure how good they are because I have never used this brand, If someone has any experience with the milwaukee or any other brand regulator I am sure someone will help.
As for the pinpoint ph controller, no you don't have to use it, you can use the bubble counter as a gauge, it won't take much to get it set to your aquired ph but you will have to measure the ph and set it manually yourself. I use the pinpoint controller because I am lazy...... no, its mostly peace of mind. I set my center setting to 6.6 and my high and low settings to 6.7 and 6.5, therefore when the ph gets to 6.7 (that is sensed from a sensing probe in the tank)it opens the solinoid to allow the c02 to my bubble counter untill my ph reaches 6.6 and then closes. Now if my solinoid ever fails where it won't close, then my pinpoint controller has a secondary output which I have a small air pump with a airstone hidden in my tank. Now if my co2 keeps pumping because of a defective solinoid and the ph gets to 6.5 it will switch on the air pump until the ph reaches my center setting of 6.6. If you can afford it, IMO it is a nice fail safe system for the lazy.... I mean worry free person it just makes it a little bit easier.
It is good you're doing the research and asking questions.
I Hope this helps,
Terry.
As for the pinpoint ph controller, no you don't have to use it, you can use the bubble counter as a gauge, it won't take much to get it set to your aquired ph but you will have to measure the ph and set it manually yourself. I use the pinpoint controller because I am lazy...... no, its mostly peace of mind. I set my center setting to 6.6 and my high and low settings to 6.7 and 6.5, therefore when the ph gets to 6.7 (that is sensed from a sensing probe in the tank)it opens the solinoid to allow the c02 to my bubble counter untill my ph reaches 6.6 and then closes. Now if my solinoid ever fails where it won't close, then my pinpoint controller has a secondary output which I have a small air pump with a airstone hidden in my tank. Now if my co2 keeps pumping because of a defective solinoid and the ph gets to 6.5 it will switch on the air pump until the ph reaches my center setting of 6.6. If you can afford it, IMO it is a nice fail safe system for the lazy.... I mean worry free person it just makes it a little bit easier.
It is good you're doing the research and asking questions.
I Hope this helps,
Terry.
I second that, imhandy2. I like the ph controller. It helps me and my bad memory with things like turning the co2 off at night.
Mark
Mark
so basically it is just cheaper purchasing all the items seperater? and if so what are some good websites to check under for the equipment?
'Len, how do you know that your system is delivering 25-35ppm.....do you measure that through the bubble count or determine that through the ph/kh chart.'
PPM is determined from knowing your kH and pH levels. With pressurized CO2 and a solid 3 - 3.5°kH these values change little over time.
I would recommend buying your pieces separately. By doing so you can buy only the items that you really need. This is a subjective question however. Some people think you need bubble counters, solenoids etc. I don't.
A tank, good air line, good regulator, good needle valve, and reactor are sufficient.
Then you hook up your pieces and dip the end of your tubing into the water and count bubbles. When you have it set at 1 bubble every 2 seconds you hook it up to your reactor (filter, bubble ramps, power head etc.) and check your pH every hour or so to see what that bubble rate is giving you. By making minute adjustments with your needle valve, you should be able to tune your pH down to a point where you're getting 15 - 20 ppm before lights out. Check the pH in the morning and adjust from there. If you have a good needle valve you should not need to touch it once you've got the pH you want.
I leave the CO2 run 24/7 so there is no need for a solenoid to turn it of at night. In my experience I get a pH drop over night of .1 - .2. If I turn the CO2 off at night I have experienced pH rise from 6.4°H to 7.4°H. This, IMO is much more stressful to the fish than the drop I get from running it over night.
I have also heard horror stories regarding solenoids that went bad.
Over all, there is just no reason to spend a lot to money on extra stuff that's not needed for this application.
Just my opinion.
Len
PPM is determined from knowing your kH and pH levels. With pressurized CO2 and a solid 3 - 3.5°kH these values change little over time.
I would recommend buying your pieces separately. By doing so you can buy only the items that you really need. This is a subjective question however. Some people think you need bubble counters, solenoids etc. I don't.
A tank, good air line, good regulator, good needle valve, and reactor are sufficient.
Then you hook up your pieces and dip the end of your tubing into the water and count bubbles. When you have it set at 1 bubble every 2 seconds you hook it up to your reactor (filter, bubble ramps, power head etc.) and check your pH every hour or so to see what that bubble rate is giving you. By making minute adjustments with your needle valve, you should be able to tune your pH down to a point where you're getting 15 - 20 ppm before lights out. Check the pH in the morning and adjust from there. If you have a good needle valve you should not need to touch it once you've got the pH you want.
I leave the CO2 run 24/7 so there is no need for a solenoid to turn it of at night. In my experience I get a pH drop over night of .1 - .2. If I turn the CO2 off at night I have experienced pH rise from 6.4°H to 7.4°H. This, IMO is much more stressful to the fish than the drop I get from running it over night.
I have also heard horror stories regarding solenoids that went bad.
Over all, there is just no reason to spend a lot to money on extra stuff that's not needed for this application.
Just my opinion.
Len
so what kind of regulator are good and what kind of needle valves work great? do i need a stop valve?
For the money, I think that this is a nice set-up:
http://www.aquabotanic.com/abstore/index.html
Click on CO2 equipment and scroll down to the Reg.
I'm not a big fan of solenoids, but I haven't heard any complaints about these units at all.
If you buy this one all you need is the tank, tubing and reactor.
Len
http://www.aquabotanic.com/abstore/index.html
Click on CO2 equipment and scroll down to the Reg.
I'm not a big fan of solenoids, but I haven't heard any complaints about these units at all.
If you buy this one all you need is the tank, tubing and reactor.
Len
