low co2 levels are usually the main cause for algae outbreaks in a planted tank.
If you are going to want a quality system that can be manipulated and controlled there are many options but some of which are the "best" are dual stage regulators(not to be confused with dual gauge) to prevent end of tank dumps, a quality metering valve/needle valve and a way to diffuse co2 into the water...some people pvc reactors some use powerheads some use ceramic diffusers
it will be easier to find the limiting nutrient in a high light tank than a low light tank
I personally use a hagen mini elite for diffusion and it works great on my 125 gal system
If you follow EI dosing and do some simple testing of water parameters when you get started so you know what your tank is doing a "high light" (3wpg-4wpg) can be done easily. Imo it is easier to balance a high light tank that a low light tank... sure a low light tank gives you more time to catch your errors but in a high light tank you are adding the nutrients in already estimated amounts and resetting at the end of the week with EI dosing schedules
If you want carpet plants, red/orange plants to be colorful etc.. high light is the way to go...
if you wanted to when you build your hood just make it so you can cut the lighting by 1/2 at any given time that way if you need to you can(situations like running out of co2 etc)... meaning run 2 balasts etc...
If you are going to want a quality system that can be manipulated and controlled there are many options but some of which are the "best" are dual stage regulators(not to be confused with dual gauge) to prevent end of tank dumps, a quality metering valve/needle valve and a way to diffuse co2 into the water...some people pvc reactors some use powerheads some use ceramic diffusers
it will be easier to find the limiting nutrient in a high light tank than a low light tank
I personally use a hagen mini elite for diffusion and it works great on my 125 gal system
If you follow EI dosing and do some simple testing of water parameters when you get started so you know what your tank is doing a "high light" (3wpg-4wpg) can be done easily. Imo it is easier to balance a high light tank that a low light tank... sure a low light tank gives you more time to catch your errors but in a high light tank you are adding the nutrients in already estimated amounts and resetting at the end of the week with EI dosing schedules
If you want carpet plants, red/orange plants to be colorful etc.. high light is the way to go...
if you wanted to when you build your hood just make it so you can cut the lighting by 1/2 at any given time that way if you need to you can(situations like running out of co2 etc)... meaning run 2 balasts etc...
