Cold Cathode (Scanner) Light

Well, heat sink size can be cut dramaticly with a little fan. That and the newer Rebels can withstand continuous temps (though I don't reccomend it) of 130C.

As far as wiring, have you considered a bus bar?
http://www.marine.com/blue-2301-busbar-gang-common-p-2446.html

I still prefer the LEDs because of the dimming ability. Though I still need to figure out how. PWM is possible, but I prefer current control. Maybe a darlington transistor with the proper pot should be able to do it. Testing will be done on this possibility when everything is constructed and I want to attempt it.

BTW, LED wiring and current control is no cake walk either, You still need to know Ohms law if you want to figure out the correct resistor that you will need.
 
luc doesn't have a meter he said. I did not check that side of things as that would be wholly determined by the AC/DC adapter. Since luc is using a PC power supply his total usage would be equal to a PC with the same power supply. For the PC power supply that I have that would be 115 V 6A = 690 Watts.
An interesting question you have put forth there spewn. I wonder if it would be better to find out what kind of voltage is required to actually power the bulb and then build or find a Power supply that will power 10 of them without the need for 10 inverters.
Seems pretty wastefull to take AC convert to low voltage DC then convert to pulsating DC then through a step up transformer to get (what I think is) 96 V AC.
 
Working on that one...looking around for a multi-meter, it's one of those long delayed items. Will ask for some instructions soon... ;-)
 
kingearwig said:
luc doesn't have a meter he said. I did not check that side of things as that would be wholly determined by the AC/DC adapter. Since luc is using a PC power supply his total usage would be equal to a PC with the same power supply.
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No. No matter what size the power supply you're connected to is, the power drawn by it is based on the amount of power you're *using*. A computer PSU's loaded draw cannot be determined based on its maximum wattage output. Hook a 350W PSU up to the same computer as a 600W PSU, each PSU will draw the same amount of power because they're each supplying the same amount. The ONLY way to know how much power your unit is using, in total, is to measure it. Go to radio shack and buy a meter if you need one.

As for getting a psu capable of supplying the voltage they need and making things simpler, well, it does take a couple thousand volts to *start*(strike) the arc in the cold cathode. I guess you can work from there.
 
I'm still there, but been busy with work. Thailand is still on a 6 day work-week so free time is quite minimal here.
Took the lights off the tank because I had no time to get it all set up properly with filter and everything. My tanks are outside, with raining season, even under a cover, it's still easy getting wet. It's on hold for now, got some other projects coming up where at the last stage these lamps come into play again.
Finally got my second stand into gear, which means 2 weeks at least of messing around with fishtanks only. Will post once I start painting and plumbing.
Really want to try a sump under 1 or both tanks, emptying the tank of all equipment
 
Luc said:
As for the life-span, not too worried. From some web-searches, I found that this is one the parts in a scanner that lasts. In many DIY projects I read, I found that they are used often as case-mod lights for PC's and desk lamps. I concluded from that a long life-span even if continuously on.
I've had it on all night, (11.30pm now, closing down her) and it runs with no problems.
For sure gonna spend some time building a proper one to try it.

The only problem then is the K-rating if it is between 3000 and 5000. See how it performs in 'real life'. Had it on top of one of the tanks and even with only those 2 tiny lights, it lit up half the tank without a problem. 150x50x50cm tank...

Biggest plus is absolutely no heat. Not even on the Power-Supplies after hours of burning... (it's 34'C every day here, cooling difficulties).

Maybe some leds could help if placed in between with the right color/temperature??
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I have had 2 cold cathode lamps scavenged from used scanners on my fish tank for 3 months now. I had them on continuously and now they have expired. They both expired within 12 hours of each other. I think that under better (only on 12 hours a day) conditions you should expect that your lights to last only 6 months to a year perhaps less.
 
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