Conskis 34 Gal Solana Build

With those wrasses you probably do not want a male to start with. Wrasses (at least this applies to Leopards, not 100% sure if it applies to all wrasses) are the opposite of clowns, all start off female and one turns male to make a harem. With clowns all are male and one turns female. In order to get a male you have to have a bunch of females around so one will turn male. Once that happens it probably isn't the best idea to house a male all by itself, you will need at least one female with it, preferably 2-3.

Edit: Just out of curiosity, how many polyps of sunny-d's did I send you? Should be easy to count with them closed up.
 
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Yea dude the winters are cold and the summers are HOT as crap (by no means cali hot) but my room is the hottest in the house so i will need a chiller for my big tank i dont want to use another fan my room is already loud enough. lol its 20 degrees out and i still have to use a fan on my tank to keep it below 80 thankfully i have it all automated because when i didnt... thats when i was nuts.

ummmm i have lets see here (goes to count) five on each, still none opened up while i was home. so 10 all together but a couple of those heads are tiny!

Reefer Brian i am one lucky guy haha, sadly the slimer didnt make it and the garf is struggling really bad, the zoas havent opened up yet but they arent dead but its still frusterating as hell!

and about those wrasses really? well maybe ill buy 2 females and then get a male after and have those be my fishies
 
Wow the nathans green is bleaching all of the sudden.. the big one atleast, mannn! :/ SPS is harsh :(. I dont think the garf gonna live. no polyps but flesh is still there and getting better or worse.. i dk i cant tell.

the nathans green had full polyps all day then all the sudden its bleaching?! WTF ughh! maybe theres to much flow this is getting upsetting
 
Did a water change today

0Trates
7ALK
420CA
1.024 Salinity

i hope its just from shipping stess :(
 
your alk looks a little low. and sps is hard i had a orange monti cap(they are supposed to be easy to keep) and with in the next day it bleached while the idaho grape monti was siting there full color. As for the alk i think it is supposed to be between 8-12. i keep mine at 9. And how did you get rid of your dyno algae?
 
Although the Alk the corals were living under for the past year was around 5. I just recently raised it to 8 when I moved, but they did just fine under 5dkh... just not a lot of wiggle room with your pH with alk that low though, but if you are comfortable with your reef tank and know what your doing there is no reason you can't do fine at 5dkh. I could never imagine killing the green milli.. that is like the red planet, bulletproof in my tank, so there must be something seriously wrong if that is bleaching.

I would guess you just rushed things.. putting SPS in the tank too soon. I thought that would be a strong possibility.

What is your Phosphates and Silicates at? Both of those are killers to SPS corals.
 
ill get a test kit for both of those things on sunday, happen to be broke at the moment and dont get paid until monday but i get enough tips to get what i need if i have to over the weekend. id imagine they are in check because of the phosphate/rowaaphos and i didnt overdue the rowaphos so i cant see it being to low either.

i feel like a total jerk that sime of your corals died that would been fine otherwise in your tank :/

and to get rid of my dynos i did a 100% water change with a turkey baster... sucking each drop out with it and getting all the dynos out with the baster... then washing the rocks, all the equpiment, vacing the sand a little, and then darkness for a week.
positive note....

Phone Pictures 006.jpg
 
Problem is, the natural bacteria population probably didn't have time to get established in that short of time. While the standard parameters you can test for may seem ok, the things you can't test for, like biological filtration, is not at its peak yet from all the recent work you have done.

I am really not liking GFO much anymore myself. I know there are people strongly against using it, but I have seen nothing but stellar success with it, Phosguard. My buddy with the 300G had his phosphates up to .08 on my Hanna Meter, told him it was time to replace his GFO, he did, tested 24 and 48 hours later, still .08. Took out the GFO, replaced with Phosguard, tested again 24 hours later, and now .02. Much better. Just not having a lot of faith if GFO recently and it can get spent very quickly (if you have high phosphates you can use up GFO in as little as 24 hours!). Also, for SPS corals, a Hanna Meter is required for testing Phosphates. Standard test kits won't cut it at all.

Live and learn... as long as this teaches you something a few small frags dying isn't the end of the world. It happens to everyone, including myself. :)
 
right so a hanna meter is in need, and your saying i should by phosguard instead of rowaphos?

Well so far ive had the slimer,the mili, and hopefully not but the garf die.. 3 out of around like 26 frags isnt a heart breaker, as long as the others stay alive, i love all the montis and the sunny d's were the peices i was looking forward to the most, so i hope they continue to live and it doesnt seem like they are having problems, the spongodes is turning out to be on my favorite peices along side the rainbow monti of course. and the sunny ds are opening, two heads now :)
 
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