Cyano

[Almondsaz]

I need help. My tank has been up for about three or four months and the water params are all in normal range (I test the basic API Reef kit + Phosphate, calcium, mag and alk).

Setup: 120gal reef Tunze 6055, Tunze 6045, Seio 1500 and Hydor Koralia Nano Eheim 1262 return pump 1/3 horse chiller and UV 24watt ASM G-2 SKimmer

Things I have tried:
1. flow placement (adding powerheads, changing placement)
2. close monitoring of feeding to not release excess nutrients
3. added more CUC (orange turbos, black snails and nerites)

I am absolutely at a loss. I am ready to follow the recommendation of the LFS and purchase some "chemical cure" for the cyano; my only issue is I don't like to put anything in the tank other than salt, ro and food. I am a little 'over the top' as they say in only trying natural methods for cures.

Any ideas on what I can do to get this past me?

I did another 20% water change 2 weeks ago, so will do another this weekend.

 

[Amphiprion]

Where is it showing up? My guess would be you have enough phosphate in the water column to feed it, but not enough to show up on the API kit. Keep up with the water changes and try some GFOH. Also, if the cyanobacteria sits on a phosphate source (area of sand with lots of detritus, detritus pocket, etc.) that will fuel its growth regardless of the concentration in the water. This may seem "unnatural," but is amongst one of the best ways to be rid of it. I actually would have (oddly enough) cyano under the sand that would occasionally rise in pockets to the surface. Since the sand bed was quite old, I attributed it to the sand having a significant phosphate sink from over the years. After removing the offending sand and replacing it with new, dry sand, it stopped. Using this method, I have little algae and almost no CUC, yet coral growth is superb on the new frags I have.

 

[Almondsaz]

Amp: Thank you for the response. It is very dense on the sand bed. I have been concerned becuase I am using the Red Sea Oolitic Aragonite Spheres for the wrasses as it is easier on them when they bury. I have notice a lot of tiny airbubbles releasing from the sand bed from time to time. I took back my sand sifting star because I was afraid that it was keeping the beneficial bacteria from getting a hold in the sand bed. What it GFOH?

Here are some pics of just how bad it is....

 

[Amphiprion]

Yikes. I have seen the Red Sea spheres (included in their MAX tanks), but unfortunately, I haven't had any direct experience with it. The only thing I see is that the grain size is rather large, which is only ok to have in ultra high flow areas (i.e. enough to move it, but not blow it away). The star won't really affect bacteria, but will consume infaunal animals, like worms, etc. How is the water motion in that area? One more quick recommendation: Take off the cover on your Seio and run it without it. You will have to rotate the pump sideways. Nice Tunze, btw .

 

[Almondsaz]

The flow in the area is good...the toadstool looks bad if he isn't in a good flow area. On the Seio do you mean use the ball head and take all the outside fairing and direction tube off the PH?

I like the 6055 and have it on pulse. I would buy them again but their prices have gone out of site.

Should I add sugar size sand to the mix? do you think that would be of benefit?

This sand seems to get blown around easily.

 

[Amphiprion]

It does blow around easily? Maybe it's the fact that it is round. Tunze did go up on their prices, unfortunately--I think fuel charges/shipping had a lot to do with that. Here's what I did with my sand and the amount of flow I had: Overall, I place a relatively thin layer of sugar sized sand. In areas of high flow, I place crushed coral or shell bits. In areas of very high flow, I have live rock rubble. In areas of absurd flow, there is nothing there (not even the rubble). Basically, I only have larger grains in areas where they will assuredly stay. Even in those areas, they get blown around a bit. Can't say if it will help for sure, but it may be better than nothing but larger grains where things can settle.

 

[Zebodog]

Any ideas on what I can do to get this past me?

Time?
It was mid way through month five that I started to get a grasp on my cyano issue. For about 2 months I followed a strict regime of weekly 10% water changes, and almost daily syphoning of the cyano.

Have you tried a couple of days with no lights? Just like a storm out on the reef, your corals should be just fine for a couple of days with no lights.

Are you using Carbon? Depending on type, it has the potential to leach phosphate back into the water.

GFO is used in the removal of phosphate, i.e. Phosban. I beleive it's an acronym for granulated ferrous oxide, but I could be mistaken. I'm sure someone smarter than I will correct me if it's not. I keep a bag of it in the system. You'll find that most consumer phosphate test kits will not report accurately.

You may find, as I did, that as your tank matures and given good routine maintenance habits along with patience and common sense that you will win the battle. Do yourself a favour and stay away from the chemicals - they'll ultimately do you no good.

Good Luck

 

[Amphiprion]

What it GFOH?

I'm sorry. Wasn't trying to be vague or in "vogue" with the lingo. I'm just so used to typing it that it just happens. Zebodog is correct. It means granular ferric oxide hydroxide (since it usually contains both) and it is used as a safer and more dependable means of phosphate removal compared to aluminum based media.

Zebodog also brought up a point I failed to mention and that is physical removal of the bacterial mats.

Luckily, most available carbons don't leach phosphate or enough to even pose an issue.

 

[BToast]

I had a large outbreak as well and no one thing would take it down.
Use all the above methods at the same time. It worked wonders for me.
-vacuum as much out as possible
-cut light down to a minimum
-good flow
-clean out on a daily basis until it subsides
-keep up with the good water params
I'm sure I'm not telling you anything new, but any one of the above fixes will likely not solve the problem without the implimentation of the rest. Good luck, this stuff is a pain, but with a little extra work for a few days it will subside.

 

[Almondsaz]

Just turned off the 3 MHs and the actinics. I am going to leave the daylights on for shorter duration - don't want to loose my clam over this.

I am running a two little fishes Phosban reactor filled with fresh carbon and have been for some time (change the carbon each month). Also running the UV. I will have to get some phosguard this weekend just as a precaution.

Thanks to all for the great suggestions and when I get home from work I am going to start the maintenance.