I just set up a new aquarium with a new filter, etc... I was wondering if I have to perform water changes during its initial cycling period or not. And If I do, how often should I do it?
Cycling question
- Thread starter dragonfish
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Cycling with fish or without? Without, nope, let those spikes hit the high notes. With fish, definitely. Keep the ammonia and nitrites as low as possible to diminish the damage done to your fish. Daily changes are not unheard of to prevent serious damage. Ammonia should be kept under 1, while nitrites shouldn't excede .5, IMO.
Yea I'm cycling the new tank with about three juvenille africans in there. So I will be doing bi-weekly water changes since I don't have alot of chlorine-neutralizer. How much water should I be changing out every time? I take it that since the amonia and nitrites will be kept to a minimum, it will take longer for my biological filter to develop when compared to fishless cycling, is that correct?
Weekly changes won't keep ammonia and nitrites to a minimum. Since you have a low bio-load, you can hope for the best, but testing the levels and changing water as needed is the best bet. As long as you know you only have chlorine, no chloramines, you can just let the water sit out over night in a bucket. The chlorine will safely gas-off.
Water changes will not extend the time for cycling. As long as amounts are present, the bacteria bed is still smaller than the available food supports, encouraging growth. Gradually, testing should indicate the need for smaller changes to keep the same level of ammonia or nitrite, until finally it tests 0.
Water changes will not extend the time for cycling. As long as amounts are present, the bacteria bed is still smaller than the available food supports, encouraging growth. Gradually, testing should indicate the need for smaller changes to keep the same level of ammonia or nitrite, until finally it tests 0.
Probably. Africans are among the worst types of fish to cycle a tank with. I mean no slight to you when I say that, I just want to let you know that these are very tough to keep alive during cycling processes.
Not to be mysterious, the reason for ChilDawg's assertion, is that at the higher pH Rift Lake cichlids require, all the ammonia is in its toxic, un-ionized form. Soft, acidic planted systems cycle easily.
The bacteria that are doing the cycling of the ammonia eventually to harmless nitrates are in the gravel, in the filter, etc. but not much in the water. But the ammonia (and nitrites) are dissolved in the water. You'll be testing for NH3 and NO2.
Just do what you can about the water changes.
BTW, isn't this a setup where Seachem's new refrigerated bacterial starter (not the canned stuff on the open shelf at your lfs) would help? See if your local guys have it.
The bacteria that are doing the cycling of the ammonia eventually to harmless nitrates are in the gravel, in the filter, etc. but not much in the water. But the ammonia (and nitrites) are dissolved in the water. You'll be testing for NH3 and NO2.
Just do what you can about the water changes.
BTW, isn't this a setup where Seachem's new refrigerated bacterial starter (not the canned stuff on the open shelf at your lfs) would help? See if your local guys have it.
Thanks for the clear-up! I realized that I didn't want to put the african juvenilles in jeapardy like that, so today I moved them to my 60g tank which is 90% cycled already, so they should be better off in that tank with the given water conditions. In the meantime, I'm going to let the 40g cycle without fish, so i can let the amonia and nitrite levels sky rocket without worrying about any fish getting harmed. Any advice to speed up the process? I want to get the 40g cycled as soon as possible, should i just add some pure amonia to the tank with the filter running? Any advice and or suggestions would be helpful, thanks.
It looks like the original poster has changed strategies, but in case anyone else in a similar boat is lurking... I think maybe wetmanNY is referring to Marineland's Bio Spira product (unless Seachem has also released recently a bio-starter product). The recommendation is sound, though... this would be one of the few instances in which BioSpira might be a good first choice.
HTH,
Jim
