cycling

[ara35]

i am currently cycling and have red rosy minnows in the tank. i plan on getting cories but they cannot withstand the cycling process. can plecos live in that type of water because i need something to get the scraps of food so i dont have to use the gravel cleaner everyday. what is a good fish to get the scraps and will live through cycling

 

[doreenjoy]

I think a better solution would be to feed a lot less. Especially during a fish cycle, you're adding a lot of additional ammonia to the tank by feeding so much that there is leftover food, which decays and causes ammonia.

 

[Star_Rider]

add to that pleco's are not really hardy for cycling and they are Poop machines.

 

[Coler]

add nothing more until the tank is cycled. stay on top of the water changes, whenever you have .25 ppm ammonia and nitrite. As already said, if there are scraps of food left, feed less and slower.

 

[sm100378]

Hi Coler,

Is it necessary to do water changes during a new tank cycle? I have been cycling for about 1 week and my ammonia is around 6 and lowering "slowly". I have read quite a few posts and never read to do water changes until the cycle is over. Can you explain please?


Thanks much!

add nothing more until the tank is cycled. stay on top of the water changes, whenever you have .25 ppm ammonia and nitrite. As already said, if there are scraps of food left, feed less and slower.

 

[Coler]

Hi Sm.

In a fish cycle you have to do water changes, to save the fish. Whenever ammonia/nitrite is over.25 you change as much as necessary to bring it to 0. This is why fish cycles take ages - you have to deny the bacteria their food source (ammonia/nitrite) because the toxic effect would kill the fish. Therefore the bacteria colonies are very slow to develop. Also, when you fish cycle, you grow enough bacteria to support only the fish you cycle with - so you have to add stock very slowly thereafter and there is always a risk of a mini-cycle following each addition.

In a non-fish cycle no water changes are necessary. You want to keep dosing pure ammonia or an acceptable source, like fish food or a prawn (dead, food type not live lol) to 5 ppm or so. When you are adding ammonia to this level and seeing it dissipate to 0 within 24 hours, and no nitrite, and slowly increasing nitrate, you are cycled. At this point you do a massive water change (80%) and add your full amount of stock in one go - you've built up such huge colonies of bacteria that the bio filter is capable of dealing with this. Always watch parameters very carefully after adding fish.

This is a handy thread http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84598

Any more q's start a thread yourself - you'll get more responses feel free to pm me also.

 

[charlie_stubbs]

IMO, fishless cycling is the way to go. Research on the subject will reveal methods that vary slightly. The results are quick, and by the time i was done i had learned alot i didn't know about water quality. At times i felt like a mad scientist, vials filled with strange colors, and when my nitrite levels (which were off the charts) dropped to 0 almost overnight, I felt the joy of a new parent. I looked towards the heavens and bellowed "It's Alive", waking my family and disturbing the neighbors.
The greatest benefit was i was able to add 12 african cichlids all at once, and the ammonia level NEVER rose an inch.

 

[sm100378]

Thank you both, much appreciated. I am doing the fishless, which is also helping me learn the specifics of quality water checks once I do get my fish.


Thanks!
SM

 

[sm100378]

Thank you both, much appreciated. I am doing the fishless, which is also helping me learn the specifics of quality water checks once I do get my fish.


Thanks!
SM

 

[Rbishop]

ara the OP, is doing a fishy cycle and needs to do the water changes as necessary to keep ammonia and nitrite at zero.

sm..it would be best to start another thread on your issues so the thread doesn't get confusing...

thanks.