I stuck mine to the back because the styrofoam will make it float away....
It only weights probably 5lbs, give or take... it isnt heavy.
and yes as mentioned, once your cement is applied in a good solid coat you could use acetone to dissolve the foam, and have a hollow shell.
I cant remember where I read about the toxin thing, but I just figured, even if it isnt true, this is one of those situations where its better safe than sorry.
However, there is no water movement behind the foam (between the foam, and glass) so i dont see why it wouldnt be possible to have water go stale behind there.
Water does get behind half of my background, the other half is air tight.
its the filter intake side that gets the water behind it.... problem is, (hard as this is to explain) where the water is being sucked from, and where the water is seeping behind the foam, are two seperate areas.... so it isnt like the intake will be moving water behind the foam.... though it might.
as for displacement, I cant say ive really tested it, but I was concerned about it taking out a huge chunk of real estate too, and I think its fine now, it only sticks out about 2" into the tank, and a little farther for the larger bumpier areas.
although i think (based on some Aquariogest calculations) that i will likely only have about 30 gallons of actual water in my 50G tank.... and this is due to substrate, the background, decorations(castle) etc.
Ive also been considering ripping out the UGF plates, and instead sticking a foam cylinder on the bottom of the uplift tubes.... it still does the same thing (biological filtration) and probably more effectivly with less area to move the water through.
I can still remove the plates, but they wont go back in afterwards
.... foam block might be a better idea to replace them with.
MikenDanielle: I am a little concerned with where your heater is, only because I know foam is an insulator, and your heater, in that spot, may not properly heat your tank effeciently, instead i think the heat will be insulated around the heater, causing the heater to cut out prematurly.
I would either move it, buy an inline heater (you dont have a canister though) or convert it to inline, and maybe hang it off the side of the tank.
It only weights probably 5lbs, give or take... it isnt heavy.
and yes as mentioned, once your cement is applied in a good solid coat you could use acetone to dissolve the foam, and have a hollow shell.
I cant remember where I read about the toxin thing, but I just figured, even if it isnt true, this is one of those situations where its better safe than sorry.
However, there is no water movement behind the foam (between the foam, and glass) so i dont see why it wouldnt be possible to have water go stale behind there.
Water does get behind half of my background, the other half is air tight.
its the filter intake side that gets the water behind it.... problem is, (hard as this is to explain) where the water is being sucked from, and where the water is seeping behind the foam, are two seperate areas.... so it isnt like the intake will be moving water behind the foam.... though it might.
as for displacement, I cant say ive really tested it, but I was concerned about it taking out a huge chunk of real estate too, and I think its fine now, it only sticks out about 2" into the tank, and a little farther for the larger bumpier areas.
although i think (based on some Aquariogest calculations) that i will likely only have about 30 gallons of actual water in my 50G tank.... and this is due to substrate, the background, decorations(castle) etc.
Ive also been considering ripping out the UGF plates, and instead sticking a foam cylinder on the bottom of the uplift tubes.... it still does the same thing (biological filtration) and probably more effectivly with less area to move the water through.
I can still remove the plates, but they wont go back in afterwards

MikenDanielle: I am a little concerned with where your heater is, only because I know foam is an insulator, and your heater, in that spot, may not properly heat your tank effeciently, instead i think the heat will be insulated around the heater, causing the heater to cut out prematurly.
I would either move it, buy an inline heater (you dont have a canister though) or convert it to inline, and maybe hang it off the side of the tank.