Unfortunately the OB zebra passed :/ I put the Bi-color 500 back in the main tank and I'm leaving the powerheads off until he gets fully comfortable, but everyone is looking better. I took some pics, but they are hard to see, so I'll try again tomorrow.
Diagnostic Help Please
- Thread starter FSUphitau85
- Start date
If you are filling directly from a hose or python, add the dechlorinator directly to the tank BEFORE adding water. If you fill your tank this way, you will want to add enough dechlor for the entire size of the tank, not just gallons changed.
I learned this late in the game but fortunately my water is from a private well and it has no added chemicals. I just add conditioner as an extra precaution.
How goes it today?
I learned this late in the game but fortunately my water is from a private well and it has no added chemicals. I just add conditioner as an extra precaution.
How goes it today?
Yea, that sounds like the better course of action. How do you combat the temp difference though?
THings are kinda ok in the tank. Some of the fish look lethargic and my Acei is swimming around with his fins clinched.
You might do more frequent, but smaller, water changes. That way to colder water won't throw the whole tank temp off.
I may be old fashion, but for most I think the best method is to buy several buckets. First, adjust tap water to appropriate temp using thermometer, then fill however many buckets you need for desired water change. Add dechlorinator and let sit while you use siphon to clean out the tank into the other buckets. Then add the clean water when you are done with the gravel vac.
Buckets ony cost like 2$ each.
In the future I think you could try epsom salt for swim bladder problems.
Buckets ony cost like 2$ each.
In the future I think you could try epsom salt for swim bladder problems.
Not knowing what size your tank is makes it a little hard to give options. For a smaller tank under 75g I probably would go for the bucket method. Just to be safe. Depending on your situation I have set up a couple of small tanks that I alternate between with aged water that I keep heated to the same temp as the tank. When I have to do a water change I just drop a pond pump into the water tank being used next and fill up. Another option if you are not too far away from a tap that has both hot and cold is to get the water the right temp then attach a hose and fill you tank that way, remembering to put the declorinator in before hand.
As for the temp it is recommended when treating columnaris to keep temp at arount 75 - 77 degrees. Ditto on the swimbladder problem epsom salts.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Cheers
As for the temp it is recommended when treating columnaris to keep temp at arount 75 - 77 degrees. Ditto on the swimbladder problem epsom salts.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Cheers
Thanks for all the help, in the OP, I said my tank is a 72 Bow Front. I'll prob try getting a few extra buckets and match temps. I removed my Acei and another zebra and put them in quarantine so they wouldn't get picked on, and I am going to watch them. My Bi-color 500 is acting much better, but his entire upper lip looks like it fell off and you can see some blood vessels :headshake2: I turned the power heads back on to get some more water movement and I'm going to start up the 25% water changes today and go from there (of course adding more salt). Id there any other suggestions on a course of action, or should I just go from there?
Thanks again for the great support
Sorry I didn't see the 72 bow front mentioned. Glad to hear some of your fish are doing better. At the moment I would stick with the daily WC and salt, also keep testing the water until all is well. Don't to forget to gravel vac but don't get the hose and stir thing up again. If you maintain the tank in the future this should not happen again. Good luck
Cheers
Deb
Cheers
Deb
Update:
I tested my water today again before a 30% WC and my ammonia and nitrites are still reading 0 ppm. My nitrates dropped from 40 ppm to 10 ppm, so I'm very happy about that. I also re-aquascaped the tank, removing about 50 lbs. of rocks, creating more swimming room and alcoves. Also, this will give me more areas to gravel vac during WCs.
On a slightly somber note, I again had to remove the Bi-color 500 from the main tank and put him into a 5G bucket I setup as a hospital tank (heater, airstone, and WC done there too). His columnaris seems to be progressing more across his face and his demeanor is poor. I'm just going to isolate him in there for the duration of the treatment and hope for the best. Most of the other fish have seemed to return to their normal activity level.
I'm going to try and get pics up of the new setup vs. the old and get some comments on it. Also, I would like some suggestions on where I have the powerheads placed and if I should maybe move them.
Thanks again!
