Jeff:
Please excuse me for taking so long to get back with you but long sad story - health (no humor here - I bearly made it to and then had to leave the MO game before the 4th quarter)
I would like to go into a long winded story concerning all the information which I derived from the research but first rattle out of the box I found this on the Marine Depot site (I had previously purchased from them) and these could be placed on the acrylic top of the tank without legs.
I was fairly a noobie then (as if I am not one still) but was far enough along to request 10KK and 7.1KK bulbs but not far enough along such that a week later I did not have to order a second fixture (I have a 110G tank) as well as an assortment of bulbs with which to experiment (please note that these fixtures have two cords and two switches).
This configuration was first class as I really had my plants growing with liquid ferts, one 6.7KK bulb in the rear, two 10KK bulbs in the middle and one 7.1KK bulb in the front. Plants requiring varying light intensities can be placed in the tank with these bulbs. (As you are aware, via several of my posts, I have now migrated to and am experimenting with dry ferts and HQI-MH augmenting the PC lighting [I have recently replaced the 14KK bulbs with 10KK bulbs].)
Please keep in mind that:
As you can tell I am "hot to trot" on wet/dry due to the quantity and type of biological and mechanical filtration media which can be employed.
In your case a positive displacement pump could also inject fertilizers directly into the last chamber of the sump and your CO2 could be injected into the tank water at the outflow orifice of the sump.
TR
Please excuse me for taking so long to get back with you but long sad story - health (no humor here - I bearly made it to and then had to leave the MO game before the 4th quarter)
I really got wore out with the weight of the hood into which the T5's were attached as well as the heat generated by the ballast (this configuration came from the Tenecor factory) and when the ballast became a crispy critter one day I began researching.
I would like to go into a long winded story concerning all the information which I derived from the research but first rattle out of the box I found this on the Marine Depot site (I had previously purchased from them) and these could be placed on the acrylic top of the tank without legs.
I was fairly a noobie then (as if I am not one still) but was far enough along to request 10KK and 7.1KK bulbs but not far enough along such that a week later I did not have to order a second fixture (I have a 110G tank) as well as an assortment of bulbs with which to experiment (please note that these fixtures have two cords and two switches).
This configuration was first class as I really had my plants growing with liquid ferts, one 6.7KK bulb in the rear, two 10KK bulbs in the middle and one 7.1KK bulb in the front. Plants requiring varying light intensities can be placed in the tank with these bulbs. (As you are aware, via several of my posts, I have now migrated to and am experimenting with dry ferts and HQI-MH augmenting the PC lighting [I have recently replaced the 14KK bulbs with 10KK bulbs].)
Marine Depot.
I have limited experience with a cannister filter and this experience was with an Eheim.
Please keep in mind that:
- [1] the pumps in cannister filters, although very high flow, are very low head pumps;
- [2] cannisters, although typically touted for high end mechanical filtration, are not; and
- [3] you will need (as best as I remember) 3/8" barb fittings to get from the 9mm Eheim tubing to 3/8" tubing.
As you can tell I am "hot to trot" on wet/dry due to the quantity and type of biological and mechanical filtration media which can be employed.
In your case a positive displacement pump could also inject fertilizers directly into the last chamber of the sump and your CO2 could be injected into the tank water at the outflow orifice of the sump.
TR
