DIY Aquarium 4x2x2

Criminal_Colt

Criminal_Colt

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Jan 28, 2005
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Hey,

I have just found a way of overcoming my tight budget. Build a free aquarium! I just found out that a mate who drives trucks for a joinery can also get glass from them. So I can get wood and glass all cut to size for $0!

Before I start on this I would like some input from you guys.

First off lets change to the metric system. So this tank will be 120cmx60cmx60cm. I have decided to use 12mm glass for the tank and 15mm glass for the base. As it is free I have no reason not to vear towards thicker glass. As far as I know the glass is tempered although this will need to be verified.

The 4 sides will all be joined on to the base, not via the sides. I read a lot of confronting documents about this and simply decided on the afore mentioned out of personal preference. If any of you think this is a bad idea please say so.

The long side pieces will be joined onto the short side pieces, see the diagram. This also seemed logical.

Now I need help about a few things.

What adhesive works best? I have read in every DIY document that basic 100% Silicon is used. Is this just normal silicon I can buy from the hardware shop? How do I make sure it is safe for fish? Do I need any other forms of adhesive?

All the tanks I have seen use some form of bracing on the corners/edges of the outside of the tank from top to bottom. That is long strips of metal or even plastic black border. How are these attached? Is it simply a matter of applying more silicon? What other ways are there of strengthening a tank?

I plan to put a glass plate on top from one side to the other as a brace. Any idea on how big this should be? I was thinking one peice about 40cm so I have 40cm on either side. Also should this be joined to the outside edges (on top) or the inside edges (inside)?

Also, about a sump. I'm not yet sure whether the glass will be tempered or not but if it is will it be impossible to add a sump? If not I was thinking about adding the necessary holes now rather than later. Until I put a sump in I could simply use a plug. If I did do this, what are the best postition for the hole/s?

Please help.

Colt :D

diyglass.jpg
 
Idea sounds good. Tank size is really good. I would love to have that depth. Depending on the thickness of the glass you could get away without bracing it. Personally I like the "euro-bracing" where it's just a 1-2 " strip all along the top. I would also definetly get the tank drilled while putting it together.

I'm really liking the look of some people's outside over flows, which take up no room in the tank at all.
 
What is the best size for the hole and where should I drill it? I'm thinking back right corner. Sound ok? No idea about radius. Any suggestions?

Colt :D
 
He what would be the minimum thickness for tempered/toughened glass?

More worried about the silicon sticking than the glass breaking. 10mm gives more area for the silicon to stick to so what do you think?
 
Oh yeah sorry. What I meant is that the glass might not be 10mm glass. It could only be 5mm! Thing is, it wont be standard plate glass either. It will probably be what you find inside doors and windows, the very big ones where it is illegal to put plate glass in for safety reasons. As such I have no idea how much weight this kind of glass can hold. I have read that fully tempered glass can withstand almost 10x the pressure of standard glass. Hmmmm.

I might end up having to use it for a sump only and buying a tank seperatly. The stand is where the real expense lies and I can still get any wood for that.

Colt :D
 
metric sizes 1200x900x600mm

i just rebuilt my tank as the silicone neede replacing after the 5 years i had it in...

This time around i built a steal frame using 40 x 40 x 3 mm thick angle steal and welded it in the corners and ground it flat ..

I also made it bigger then the glass about a 1000mm this gives me 40 cm ontop of that glass to attach my hood to so its all built off the steal frame ..

With a painted black steal frame its verry nice looking and i know the steal is holding the weight and not the silicon , even though the silicon did hold it last time it was together...

The silicon i used was a selleys product called "selleys glass" it is made for Aquriums witch means its not a poison for fish it dose cost a little bit more
and dose take 7 days to fully set up for maxium strength.. skins in 5 mins..

Drilling a galss tank seems to be just another maintance issue to me , i rather like the look of a clear plasic overflow and it also skims from the top of the tank ...
 
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