more yeast causes more CO2 for less time because the yeast eats up all the sugar. there's more yest eating up the sugar producing CO2, but it eats up the sugar faster so it doesn't last as long. if you keep feeding it sugar, it should last longer.
Diy Co2
- Thread starter LiLangeL181
- Start date
aquarob said:
Its a description of the part that attaches to the air line. It has a 3/16" Outside Diameter and is barbed (ridged, not smooth), 4mm is the slightly smaller closest metric equivalent and the fitting itself is made of Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS) plastic.
It means you want an airline tube with an Interior Diameter (ID) 3/16" or 4mm, the size of a standard aquarium airline. Regular airline will leak a certain amount of CO2 and will be degraded by the CO2 overtime, so that you'd need to replace it periodically. You can find CO2 resistant tubing. I think that silicone tubing is more resistant than the type they sell at the LFS and should be available at your local home supply store. You may see it as 3/16 by 1/4 ID/OD or 4mm/6mm ID/OD.
HTH
I think I answered most of the questions and offered a more complete tutorial.
Please Refer Here.
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=532792#post532792
-John N.
Please Refer Here.
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=532792#post532792
-John N.
joephys said:
Its basically another (mostly smaller) bottle in which you lead the CO2 line from the Yeast reactor - and then a line out to the tank. I think its mainly meant to catch any yeast mix that might get in the line and would otherwise make its way in the tank.
Maybe i am wrong but if your yeast bottle tips over the wrong way and the wash bottle is relatively small i still believe you can end up with yeast in the tank.
Thats why i'd always put the yeast bottle in either a heavy bucket or some other container that is unlikely to tip - or strap it to the inside of the tank stand etc.
joephys said:
If the yeast mix is too high in its bottle and gets going fast and furious it can rise up into the tubing and get siphoned into the tank. Not overfilling the mix bottles can help with this but an overflow bottle can serve as a block while conveniently doubling as a bubble counter…
This bit goes in between the mix bottles and the tank, before the check valve. Take a smaller bottle (I used to use a 16oz soda bottle) and drill two holes through the cap. Set the hose from the mix bottle(s) through one hole so that it goes almost to the bottom and a second length of hose so that its just slightly below the cap (no more than an inch or so) connecting to the check valve and then onto the tank. Fill the bottle halway with water and seal.
The CO2 comes out of the first tube, travels through the water and accumulates in the top of the bottle. You'll be able to keep track of production because you can see the CO2 bubbles. Its a bubble counter. Should the yeast mix overflow into the tubing coming out of the mix bottle, it will stop at this bottle and not get to the tank.
Never heard it called a wash bottle, but I ssume Roan is talking about something along those lines.
John N's more extensive writeup (quite good, btw) includes a bubble-counter and yeast strainer made with a syringe.
It'll definitely work as a bubble counter, but I'd be concerned that the relatively small airspace might be too small to stop the yeast for long. I never had a yeast overflow in my DIY days, don't know how much mix could make it into the tubing.
If you keep your mix at slightly less than half a bottle, a bottle on its side is no more dangerous than one standing upright and the mix is much less likely to boil itself into a siphon situation.Hannys_Papa said:
Its a good safety measure, but its a situation that shouldn't really come up in the first place.
OTOH, agreed: securing the mix bottles is never a bad idea (children, pets, random incidents).
