with that power head i don think there s a problem with the pressure ... just have to try and see the results
DIY Rio 2100 Pump/Lock & Lock Canister filter
- Thread starter CWO4GUNNER
- Start date
I may be a bit dense but my Rio came with a sponge filter attachment on the inlet. The sponge was a very nice designed filter with a plastic casing to protect it from leaves and such since it was meant to be used outdoors in a pond. I have been using the Rio sponge filters, I have 3, in my tanks with power heads to drive them and they are excellent when used that way. If you like the Rio pump, connect one of their own sponge filters and set up the outlet ed any way that you like. I left mine attached to the fountain head and stored it dry for the winter.
The Rio 2100 is I'm sure is a great pond pump and probubly why the impeller is so huge compared to canister impellers. I just don't happen to have a pond so rather then have it sit in storage I want to try and use it to create a super canister for my next and last large aquarium 150-200. While in a dimly lit pond with limited viewing a submersible is acceptable, in an aquarium with high visibility glass viewing it is too easy to see that these submersibles throw off allot of debris as soon as you shut the pump off and it loses pressure releases allot of filter debris back into the water. Even after only 24 hours of using the Rio 2100 with its filter attachment in my aquarium as a test and it did filter the water well, but as soon as I unplugged it and picked it up out of the water, allot of filter debris poured right back in creating a snow storm of debris. In a canister the same thing happens except the canister holds all the yuck inside rather then releasing it. So I'm mostly after using the Rio 2100 engine to power a super canister filter for a large aquarium.
So far I am installing make-shift bulkhead compression fittings (water tight support fittings) into the lid to allow lines to pass though with rigid support and mechanical compression to prevent leaking. Its slow going because I'm improvising using quality low cost alternatives parts to "standard use components" which cost up to 6 times as much so I'm having to test every "never before tried" component I build into the canister. Photo's and explanations to follow.
So far I am installing make-shift bulkhead compression fittings (water tight support fittings) into the lid to allow lines to pass though with rigid support and mechanical compression to prevent leaking. Its slow going because I'm improvising using quality low cost alternatives parts to "standard use components" which cost up to 6 times as much so I'm having to test every "never before tried" component I build into the canister. Photo's and explanations to follow.
Last edited:
(1) Below bulkhead fittings install. Tools I use to cut 1/2 inch holes to accommodate make-shift bulkhead compression fittings. The location of the cut hole is dictated by the location of the pump for attachment later. Since this canister is made of strong but flexible Polypropylene there is no fear of cracking from cutting or dropping.
(2) Below bulkhead fittings install. One of two 1/2 inch holes cut. make sure hole is barley big enough to allow fitting threads to pass without binding, no bigger.
(3) Below bulkhead fittings install. Instead of using standard aquarium bulkhead fitting costing $5-$18 each I am using 1/2" male/female threaded PVC pipe adapters and garden hose washers, total cost for all 4 pieces about $0.80
(4) Below bulkhead fittings install. Shorter male end fitting passes from inside lid to allow more room for hose fitting attachment to pump. Clearance should not be binding but close as possible to provide good washer compression when female is thread tightened from outside top of lid.
(5) Below bulkhead fittings install. Although most likely not needed, as an extra precaution before final install both sides of fitting shoulders, seal, and threads are coated in silicone to ensure water tight seal.
(6) Below bulkhead fittings install. Male and female fittings are hand tightened snug enough to compress green washer but NOT so tight that washer is crushed and threads are stripped. Do not wipe away excess silicone which will smear and stain. Wait until silicon is cured and remaining silicone can simply be pulled off cleanly.
(7) Below bulkhead fittings install. Repeat steps for return flow fitting again taking into consideration placement with respect to canister pump and diffuser location later.
(8) Below bulkhead fittings install. This concludes this portion of installing the inlet and outlet bulkhead fittings which will provide strong watertight connections for hose lines later. Obviously more steps to follow. Any objective questions and criticism welcome.
PS- If your wondering why I'm moving ahead with the use of the 1 gallon lock & lock canister I commented on being too small, its because I decided its best to use what I already have first. Later if truly lacking I can always upgrade to a larger 2.6 gallon lock & lock canister and simply reuse all the fittings.
(2) Below bulkhead fittings install. One of two 1/2 inch holes cut. make sure hole is barley big enough to allow fitting threads to pass without binding, no bigger.
(3) Below bulkhead fittings install. Instead of using standard aquarium bulkhead fitting costing $5-$18 each I am using 1/2" male/female threaded PVC pipe adapters and garden hose washers, total cost for all 4 pieces about $0.80
(4) Below bulkhead fittings install. Shorter male end fitting passes from inside lid to allow more room for hose fitting attachment to pump. Clearance should not be binding but close as possible to provide good washer compression when female is thread tightened from outside top of lid.
(5) Below bulkhead fittings install. Although most likely not needed, as an extra precaution before final install both sides of fitting shoulders, seal, and threads are coated in silicone to ensure water tight seal.
(6) Below bulkhead fittings install. Male and female fittings are hand tightened snug enough to compress green washer but NOT so tight that washer is crushed and threads are stripped. Do not wipe away excess silicone which will smear and stain. Wait until silicon is cured and remaining silicone can simply be pulled off cleanly.
(7) Below bulkhead fittings install. Repeat steps for return flow fitting again taking into consideration placement with respect to canister pump and diffuser location later.
(8) Below bulkhead fittings install. This concludes this portion of installing the inlet and outlet bulkhead fittings which will provide strong watertight connections for hose lines later. Obviously more steps to follow. Any objective questions and criticism welcome.
PS- If your wondering why I'm moving ahead with the use of the 1 gallon lock & lock canister I commented on being too small, its because I decided its best to use what I already have first. Later if truly lacking I can always upgrade to a larger 2.6 gallon lock & lock canister and simply reuse all the fittings.
....
Well I procrastinated for about 3 weeks working out the potential leak details and hardware requirements in my head and occasionally buying only what was absolutely necessary at the local hardware store determined to use as much items I could use from my garden parts bin as possible. So yesterday afternoon got board and decided to finally glue the PVC parts together and assemble my DIY 1 gallon canister filter. After assembly I was of course once again motivated and decided to test it out without media since this was just an integrity test. I knew I had given enough thought to creating makeshift water tight fittings that the canister was either going to work without leaks or fail under pressure. After filling the canister with water and attaching the lid I plugged it in and it immediately started working. All I had to do to remove the small amount of air inside was crack one side on the lid cam and the air hissed out. It has now been running for 12 hours continuously with no leaks even though there is negative pressure due the pumps high700 GPH rate of flow water is actually being sucked out of the tank, confirmed by the suction jolt and hicky you receive when you block the intake side with your palm. I pressure tested the canister by blocking the intake and although the canister sides did slightly move inward it never collapsed or leaked. I also did a positive pressure test by blocking the out flow port and the sides moved slightly outward this time but again never leaked or failed. This was extreme testing and would never happen in actual use , however because the pump is so strong there is more negative pressure then I would like on the canister so I will be adding an internal restrictor on the pump itself to better balance out the intake and out flow pressure. The restrictor may be as simple as a plug at the impeller port with a hole drilled to the correct metering size that will control pressure on the pump housing rather then on the canister housing, hoses, or fittings. The best was would be with a voltage regulator that would slow the pump down but that’s outside my DIY budget so far $39.
Below as you can see items pointed out in red not covered in previous post . All fittings that pass through the canister to the outside must be a type of bulkhead compression fitting, The PVC piping using standard ½ inch threaded male female fitting with sandwiched garden hose washers on both sides to create bulkhead pressure fittings. Also the electrical cord passing though a male & female end plug fittings filled with silicone, otherwise known in Naval Engineering as a stuffing tube which allows wires to pass through ships compartments without water being able to get though regardless of pressure because the elongated tube with its small opening at each end large enough only to allow wiring to pass through is filled with sealant and there is not enough square inches to apply pressure and force water past the seal. The sealant you see on the end of the outside fitting and wire was just residue that I will remove now that its cured dry. You will also notice inside the lid a simple PVC T-fitting used as the incoming water diffuser. Also you’ll notice the PVC O-ring hose couplers that couple, uncouple, and seal without effort, instead of regular garden hose fittings which take way too much effort to remove and tighten without leaks.
In this next photo below you will notice my custom “lid to pump push on coupler” . This was the most difficult problem to overcome because all canister filters must find a way to simultaneously close the sealed lid and connect to the sealed pump, all in one action. I had to find just the right size hose and push on fitting that allows me to just line up and push the lid down penetrating the pump hose with the male self sealing shank fitting without disturbing media.
In this next photo below you will see I use PVC 90 degree elbow fittings to create the tank bend and also attached some basic PVC ½ inch pipe extension which still awaits fitting with strainers and extensions, but the basics are done and my DIY canister is working much better then expected in spite be told it would not work.
In this last photo below you will see why floor canisters that depend on siphoned water have limitations. Because the pump has greater flow then gravity siphoning can provide at 14 PSI, negative pressure created inside the canister causes air to un-dissolve out of solution, noted by the unusual bubbles in the photo with tiny bubbles inside them. This is why the Fuval FX-5 has to shut down every 24 hours to purge air, not because its has an air leak but because the powerful GPH causing negative atmospheric pressure inside the canister is pulling out right out of the water itself. This same phenomena is happening with my DIY canister at a rate of 1/10 the canister filling with air every 24 hours. Also of concern is that negative pressure canisters that pull air out of solution means lower oxygenated water being progressively being pumped out of the tank water over time if not compensated with very good aeration. Another reason why I will be installing a restrictor to equalize the pressure and alleviate this problem.
:headbang2::headbang2::headbang2::headbang2::headbang2::headbang2::headbang2::headbang2:
Below as you can see items pointed out in red not covered in previous post . All fittings that pass through the canister to the outside must be a type of bulkhead compression fitting, The PVC piping using standard ½ inch threaded male female fitting with sandwiched garden hose washers on both sides to create bulkhead pressure fittings. Also the electrical cord passing though a male & female end plug fittings filled with silicone, otherwise known in Naval Engineering as a stuffing tube which allows wires to pass through ships compartments without water being able to get though regardless of pressure because the elongated tube with its small opening at each end large enough only to allow wiring to pass through is filled with sealant and there is not enough square inches to apply pressure and force water past the seal. The sealant you see on the end of the outside fitting and wire was just residue that I will remove now that its cured dry. You will also notice inside the lid a simple PVC T-fitting used as the incoming water diffuser. Also you’ll notice the PVC O-ring hose couplers that couple, uncouple, and seal without effort, instead of regular garden hose fittings which take way too much effort to remove and tighten without leaks.
In this next photo below you will notice my custom “lid to pump push on coupler” . This was the most difficult problem to overcome because all canister filters must find a way to simultaneously close the sealed lid and connect to the sealed pump, all in one action. I had to find just the right size hose and push on fitting that allows me to just line up and push the lid down penetrating the pump hose with the male self sealing shank fitting without disturbing media.
In this next photo below you will see I use PVC 90 degree elbow fittings to create the tank bend and also attached some basic PVC ½ inch pipe extension which still awaits fitting with strainers and extensions, but the basics are done and my DIY canister is working much better then expected in spite be told it would not work.
In this last photo below you will see why floor canisters that depend on siphoned water have limitations. Because the pump has greater flow then gravity siphoning can provide at 14 PSI, negative pressure created inside the canister causes air to un-dissolve out of solution, noted by the unusual bubbles in the photo with tiny bubbles inside them. This is why the Fuval FX-5 has to shut down every 24 hours to purge air, not because its has an air leak but because the powerful GPH causing negative atmospheric pressure inside the canister is pulling out right out of the water itself. This same phenomena is happening with my DIY canister at a rate of 1/10 the canister filling with air every 24 hours. Also of concern is that negative pressure canisters that pull air out of solution means lower oxygenated water being progressively being pumped out of the tank water over time if not compensated with very good aeration. Another reason why I will be installing a restrictor to equalize the pressure and alleviate this problem.
:headbang2::headbang2::headbang2::headbang2::headbang2::headbang2::headbang2::headbang2:
Last edited:
Nice work!
I'm sure you've tested it and know already. But, once the intake/return are high enough for an aquarium. Would you loose enough flow rate, to not need a restrictor?
Edit:
And what about a larger intake. Would that make any difference with the air problem?
I'm sure you've tested it and know already. But, once the intake/return are high enough for an aquarium. Would you loose enough flow rate, to not need a restrictor?
Edit:
And what about a larger intake. Would that make any difference with the air problem?
Boy oh boy, my internet has been down all this week off and on including this morning. I think after 4 years of broad band I have had enough down time so Monday I'm switching to the phone company high speed internet special of $29 a month for 2 years. Sorry just had to vent on that off subject lol.
You could offset some high GPH flow with a larger intake but it would have to be much larger since its only gravity like an inch and that’s allot more water to control pouring out if you have a leak and allot more structure requirement to support the fitting. Really a larger intake would be good for a larger canister like 5 gallons with this pump just to have the canister structure to support the fitting base. This 1 gallon canister has limited top lid structure to support anything larger then 1/2 inch.
As far as the additional height of the aquarium compared to the 4' test tank I’m using we are only talking another 24 inches for my aquarium and this pump if you recall was pumping like 90% at 6 feet during the ladder test, earlier in this post, but it should definitely help some and Ill let you know if the problem is cured when I install it tomorrow.
So far so good, testing has been continuous now at 21 hours strait. The only change made which helped allot is I decided to place a valve restrictor on the end of the pipe pouring into the test tank (end pressure side) and restricted it 20% which took the negative pressure off the canister and bubbles stopped forming at the base and the air pocked subsided. So for now I will just use this restrictor on the end to control any canister pressure negative or positive. If the canister makes it until tomorrow morning or 36 hours continuous running I will be hooking it up to my African tank as soon as I get the strainer configuration worked out and an emergency outer container (trash can) to set the unit inside of incase of leak flooding will be contained, at until It has confidently performed for a good 30 days continuous running. I can tell you one thing even 20% restricted the out put and intake force is at least 3 times any commercial canister I own. Ill post more photo’s when I fill it with media and start running it on my African. Any concerns, criticisms, complements, or warnings are very welcome as one can always miss something other can see, just like the higher tank lower pressure remark, good one thanks SMinNC.
You could offset some high GPH flow with a larger intake but it would have to be much larger since its only gravity like an inch and that’s allot more water to control pouring out if you have a leak and allot more structure requirement to support the fitting. Really a larger intake would be good for a larger canister like 5 gallons with this pump just to have the canister structure to support the fitting base. This 1 gallon canister has limited top lid structure to support anything larger then 1/2 inch.
As far as the additional height of the aquarium compared to the 4' test tank I’m using we are only talking another 24 inches for my aquarium and this pump if you recall was pumping like 90% at 6 feet during the ladder test, earlier in this post, but it should definitely help some and Ill let you know if the problem is cured when I install it tomorrow.
So far so good, testing has been continuous now at 21 hours strait. The only change made which helped allot is I decided to place a valve restrictor on the end of the pipe pouring into the test tank (end pressure side) and restricted it 20% which took the negative pressure off the canister and bubbles stopped forming at the base and the air pocked subsided. So for now I will just use this restrictor on the end to control any canister pressure negative or positive. If the canister makes it until tomorrow morning or 36 hours continuous running I will be hooking it up to my African tank as soon as I get the strainer configuration worked out and an emergency outer container (trash can) to set the unit inside of incase of leak flooding will be contained, at until It has confidently performed for a good 30 days continuous running. I can tell you one thing even 20% restricted the out put and intake force is at least 3 times any commercial canister I own. Ill post more photo’s when I fill it with media and start running it on my African. Any concerns, criticisms, complements, or warnings are very welcome as one can always miss something other can see, just like the higher tank lower pressure remark, good one thanks SMinNC.
Well the canister, pump and pluming survived 111 F degree air and water temperatures in the blazing sun today a testament to good materials. The polypropylene canister didn't deform or stretch like nylon would have and remained strong, and of course PVC has proven itself as a heat resilient plastic. So that pretty much completes the extreme 200% load test faze and I have decided to suspend trials and move the canister back indoors in preparation for the practice application test faze and see how many fish sucked up into the intake to jam the impeller, just kidding about that last part lol:headshake2:. More photo's to follow.
