DIY Sump

slapnutz

Obsessed? Nah....
Jan 2, 2009
132
0
0
40
Kenosha, WI
I'm in the process of building a wet/dry sump for my freshwater 55. Think a 10g tank is big enough? I am building it pretty simple, one divider, drip plate, filter media, bioballs, and pumped back out. Also looking at a glass-holes.com 700gph overflow box, so I will be venturing down the path of drilling my own tank soon.
 
700gph is a bit high and you could do as well with less, like around 4-500gph. That will still give you a nice flow rate. With a wet/dry you don't need as much turnover as you do with a HOB system.

I made a sump from a 10 and found I had to add water daily. I now use a 20 and I top-off every 3 days. I use a Danner Supreme Mag Drive 5 on a 100 gallon tank. The reason for a lower flow-rate is due to having a much larger filtration area as well as bio area.

You want your overflow box to be greater than your return pump. Doing so puts the flow control on the pump. It is much easier than trying to adjust pump return volume.
 
Typically with sumps, 1/3 of the main tank volume is a good starting point (this would be 20 gal for you). Though the best bet would be to go with the biggest sump you can fit under the tank.

Also, if you are looking to save money, you could build your own pvc overflow for a couple of bucks instead of buying one. Using pot scrubbies in place of bioballs will save money as well, without a loss in performance.
 
i am looking at doing the same thing but for a 40 gal and am looking at using a 15 gal sump so i can upgrade my tank at a later point without having to upgrade the sump too.

most ppl have have told me to do i t like marine but i dont see the need to have that much lph return if a canister only have 500lph for it then why does my sump need 1000 lph return when the sump will have a much larger bio content .

but i do agree wit ex that having a larger overflow is easyier to controll the flow and this will also lessen the noise

i have seeen an easyier diy overflow but cant find the link atm i will have to draw it up at some point but i do like the neatness of haveing it drilled into the back of the tank
 
I figure for 75 bucks, you get the overflow, bulkhead, elbow, and the glass cutting hole saw. Not bad, considering CPR overflow boxes go for that or more and are siphon based. I like the PVC DIY, but I'm trying to keep as much out of the display tank as possible. The pump I purchased is rated at 650gph, but with no head. I'm guessing at around 4 feet, I will be at 350-400gph? Since I already have the sump mostly built, I am just gonna try out the 10. If it becomes too much work, I will upgrade to a 20H. Or possibly set it in a bigger tank and drill a hole in the 10 gallon to drain into the bigger tank.
 
Since you didn't mention pump brand it is hard to say what the max head height and drop-off curve is. It is better to know rather than guess or hope you have enough. Err on the side of going too large as you can always throttle it down if needed. You don't have to buy name brand, high-dollar pumps to do the job. The only advantage to name-brand is replacement parts such as an impeller and known longevity. I have a couple of off-the-shelf cheapies that are very efficient but those are on tanks where if needed, fish can be moved elsewhere. However, the tanks where quality is the best option do have name-brand pumps.
 
..Think a 10g tank is big enough? ...

The number 1 thing I look for in the Size of a Sump is...

Will it contain all the water that will end up there, when the power goes out?

Take into consideration how much water will drain from the tank from the over flow. Could be up to an inch. But really depends on its(over flow) design.
How much will drian back through the return line? This can be limited by a check valve, or other ways. Such as, drilling a hole right below the water line on the return line. So it starts sucking air, and hopefully breaks the syphon. Other wise, plan on a few more inches of water flowing down from the tank.

ETCs...
 
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