Dragon Eel

[BadRoma1]

You are doing the right thing by trying less expensive eel before you try highly priced one. I know you were trying to say that the eel looks good enough to buy, eats well too. the owner was trying to show off by feeding him by hand. the infection from a bite of any eel is the biggest problem. the real reason eels bite is not because they want to do it for the most part, but because they can't see all that good and can mistake your fingers for food. please remember to cycle your tank before you bring any eel home. also, remember what Theoldmanofthesea is telling you about what to feed eels as far as veriety goes. you can't feed any fish silversides only and you don't really want to feed your fish live feeders because they can have health problems or parasites and you don't want to infect your eel with some kind of desease. you need to cycle your tank for about one and a half month, however you can cut it down to 14 days if you use "biospira" during cycling. even though "biospira" claims on the box that you can cycly a tank in one day (or something like that) don't believe that, because I called Bio-spira company and they told me that that's not true but in reality it's 14 days.

 

[zhonk]

Why only six months?

The more questions I ask the more unsure I am of myself. I really wanted to get a Dragon Eel, but there's no point in getting one if it isn't going to live for at least 10 years.

Thats how long I've been going there.

 

[xenon-3]

Does the Zebra Eel have the same lifespan as the Dragon Eel? If so, then I might not even get a Dragon Eel later on, because all I'm looking for is an Eel that looks nice, isn't too hard to take care of, and has a long life span.

 

[OldManOfTheSea]

I only the time to cover a few areas in this question, but can tell you that eels for the most part, are the hardest marine specimens you can maintain. I mentioned some earlier to your question. Also, don't go collecting some eel just because of simply beauty or you know of others who owns such species, but do only get the eel you desire most once your a better knowledge in maintaining such animals for many year, "not just ten year" Dwarf eels have the shorter life spans to where a dragon lives 30 years or longer. I got to go now, but I think that this somehow should give you a better outlook on what your looking to do.

Buddy

 

[OldManOfTheSea]

but can tell you that eels for the most part, are the hardest marine specimens you can maintain

The correct word is "hardiest" erv:

 

[xenon-3]

So do Zebra Eels also have lifespans of 30 years?

 

[7faces]

heres a good source of info on your eels..
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-12/fm/index.php

 

[xenon-3]

Thanks, but they don't have anything on the Zebra Eel's lifespan there.

 

[OldManOfTheSea]

Gymnomuraena zebra
Common name: zebra moray
Maximum length: 3 feet, minimum tank size: 40 gallons
Must have a strong reef rock structure for these eels (Michael, 1999).

That to me is ridiculous as well as its out dated data for any eel to be so cramp up in a 40 gal tank and at the size of 3 feet, it is crazy.

As well, you can manage to find any number of what if it be an article or other wise, the main thing you need to keep in mind is that it be only that persons opinion and nothing more. For you see, for a full grown zebra moray in a reef system, I would suggest nothing smaller then a 125. And of course, larger is better.

Echidna catenata
Common name: chainlink moray, chain moray
Maximum size: 30", minimum tank size: 40 gallons

It is critical that moray eels be fed a varied diet, one that replicates their natural prey items. In the case of the morays discussed here, crustaceans and hard-shelled invertebrates should be an integral part of the diet

I been telling a good many when feeding crabs or shrimps that they should allow to let the eel bite through and later remove the shells from their eel tank. That they need to allow their eel to feel as if more at home, rather then a simple captive.

Overfeeding in eels is a major health problem; overfed eels accumulate fat at an unhealthy rate, and it's not uncommon to observe a fat eel at a public aquarium where the handlers feed the eel as part of an hourly display. If your eel refuses food, consider giving the eel some time off from feeding to allow the animal to utilize some stored fats.

Eels in the wide not feeds daily or every other day, but rather at most time, they feed weeks or months apart. The problem comes when those who have eels such as the yellowhead or blackedge morays and they have other fish tank mates as well. There you have no choice whatsoever but too feed the eel as often it would accept. That be so to try and keep the eel from preying on any fish you wish not too miss. But also, long term in this method, it will fail and you will become minus a fish here and there.

For often, not the very same eel, but rather any eel in captivity could accept its offering and drop that meal behind the rocks were you cannot see it. Eels, each has their own personality and through their body motions and behavior, you will become aware to what if it will drop its food and that you would need watch it, and if it is dropped, get it out.

The two keys to success with morays eels are 1) excellent water quality and 2) a varied and nutritious diet.

I been telling others for more then 40-45 years, those near to same words.

Don't fret over morays which have fasted for short periods; my eels have refused food for over 2 months with no loss of body condition or apparent health issues.

I had so many times, an eel that not feed from 5 to 5.5 months and there too had no change in either body condition or apparent health issues.

Also, on the thought of housing a zebra in even a 40 gal tank all by itself, it still isn't ideal to me for also keep in mind that most people who keep eels, has as well, a temptation to add fish into their tanks. It be easy that is to say I will house only the dragon eel in a 100 gal tank, but just how far you can stick with just an eel in that tank, before your a change of mind?

So do Zebra Eels also have lifespans of 30 years?

We all not do the very same thing for our eels or fish, some or a good number do all the best for their captives. For so many decides at times not to do a water change when they should, or buy the very best from a fresh sea food market. Like there was one who was for having his ribbon eel for a few months only at that time, was only feeding the eel feeders. Now something like that shouldn't ever be considered a successful method, as well, that is extremely a short time to have such an eel and say im successful in keeping such a species.

As the dragon moray, I had the male I sold from the time it was of the size of 13". The eel already by this point had aged some 7-10 years and Like the female which I had for more then 14 years, she was thought to be at the time of the sales to been definitely more then 20 years of age.

Some of the fastest growing species of these eels, happens to be freshwater species. For one thing, the dragon eels I sold last year, still was growing the year before.

Like the zebra moray, once it is of size to where it would feed on much foods, it should when the time comes, grow an average of not less then 6" a year for a while, and then that would later slow down somewhat to a few inches, for their skeleton structure, requires a great deal of more time to grow and strengthen.

But as too determine the species exact age, there be only one method in how to do this, and your eel must first be dead in order for it too be done.

The current techniques used to age eels as well as most marine animals is to cut a cross section of one of their teeth or a vertebrae, they have growth rings similar to trees that can help you decipher their age a bit more accurate than an educated guess. In bony fish many people extract the otolith, or ear bone, which also exhibit growth rings.

Buddy