Drilled Tank Question
- Thread starter blue2fyre
- Start date
I would not fix the holes with a patch. I would simply purchase bulk head fitting and close them off.
http://www.flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=BulkheadFittingsStandard
http://www.flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=BulkheadFittingsStandard
Because I already have 2 canister filters. I don't really understand how a sump even works and I think it would be louder than my eheim.
Why not use a patch? I've read about a patch working. Would my substrate still cover up the bulkhead?
CWO4GUNNER
USN/USCG 1974-2004 Weps
I purchased a CL 225 tanks that was saltwater with corner holes and huge internal skimmers. Since I dont do saltwater the use of skimmers in a fresh water tank was pointless especially when they were displacing 20 gallons of tank space.
Originally my plan was just to remove the skimmer towers and plug the holes myself with my own makeshift bulkhead plugs. Personally I think you will be allot better off with a bulkhead plug with seals which will not only ensure water tight integrity but keep the resale value higher for potential saltwater reef ready usage. Trying to plug wuth glass is a less secure application IMO
Because I discovered the bottom was cracked and painted over by the privious owner I eneded up paying him only $50 for the tank& cabinet and replacing the bottom panel with 1/2" tempered glass without holes and glad I did.
I believe the sump, skimmer and protein skimmer were built around the saltwater tank and very effective for that use, but unless modified for fresh water with a deep tank pick-up tube & strainer, provide very marginal benefit in a fresh water application IMO.
I have a sump with with the quintessential saltwater overflow strainer that pulls water only from the top where there is almost 0 suspended debris and if it were not for my supplemental canister filter to pick-up suspended debris and polish the water, I would have a pretty merky looking tank. I'm currently working on a fresh-water sump solution that will use a deep pick-up tube to filter all missed debris without the added risk of overflow flooding, making the sump a more effective for freshwater use.
Originally my plan was just to remove the skimmer towers and plug the holes myself with my own makeshift bulkhead plugs. Personally I think you will be allot better off with a bulkhead plug with seals which will not only ensure water tight integrity but keep the resale value higher for potential saltwater reef ready usage. Trying to plug wuth glass is a less secure application IMO
Because I discovered the bottom was cracked and painted over by the privious owner I eneded up paying him only $50 for the tank& cabinet and replacing the bottom panel with 1/2" tempered glass without holes and glad I did.
I believe the sump, skimmer and protein skimmer were built around the saltwater tank and very effective for that use, but unless modified for fresh water with a deep tank pick-up tube & strainer, provide very marginal benefit in a fresh water application IMO.
I have a sump with with the quintessential saltwater overflow strainer that pulls water only from the top where there is almost 0 suspended debris and if it were not for my supplemental canister filter to pick-up suspended debris and polish the water, I would have a pretty merky looking tank. I'm currently working on a fresh-water sump solution that will use a deep pick-up tube to filter all missed debris without the added risk of overflow flooding, making the sump a more effective for freshwater use.
CWO4GUNNER
USN/USCG 1974-2004 Weps
Just remember not to forget that depending on the profile of the bulkhead plug you will have a high spot on the bottom connected to the glass that might protrude lower then the thank trim exposing a potential vulnerable spot to damage by handling (another reason I would never drill the bottom of a tank). Your cabinet may have to provide a hole or low spot and you will have to be aware when handling the tank not to set it down or slide it on this high spot. Unless of coarse the plug sits above the tank trim and is more-less flush.
I presume you're talking about the bulkhead.. If it's the seal between the bulkhead and the glass just try giving it a slight twist to snug it up. If that doesn't work you could drain the tank till it's below the overflow height and the remove and replace. If it's where the hose connects.. again try to tighten, if no luck replace the clamp, if no luck replace the hose
Why not use a patch? I've read about a patch working. Would my substrate still cover up the bulkhead?[/QUOTE]
Sure, a bulkhead on the inside of the tank is only about 1/8".
Sure, a bulkhead on the inside of the tank is only about 1/8".