DrTim's One and Only - Review
- Thread starter nosuperstitions
- Start date
I just want to say this:
Even when you transfer media over from an established tank, it is not uncommon to see this sort of instability, .25 ppm of ammonia for example.
A new tank with 100% new water, new substrate, new decor - is not going to be made into a mature tank by adding established media. You still need to stock very slowly and feed very little.
A planted tank is probably a different story...the above refers to fish only.
If Dr. Tim's product works as well as established media, I think there is definitely a place for it in the hobby. How many people will walk up to the LFS guy and say, "um, can I have your dirty filter pad?"
Even when you transfer media over from an established tank, it is not uncommon to see this sort of instability, .25 ppm of ammonia for example.
A new tank with 100% new water, new substrate, new decor - is not going to be made into a mature tank by adding established media. You still need to stock very slowly and feed very little.
A planted tank is probably a different story...the above refers to fish only.
If Dr. Tim's product works as well as established media, I think there is definitely a place for it in the hobby. How many people will walk up to the LFS guy and say, "um, can I have your dirty filter pad?"
well, i must apologize doctim.
i must say it is kind of hard to make heads or tails of things with certain "representatives" (we know he doesn't work for you) chiming in with pamphlets of over zealous information/opinion.
also... it was seachems stability that was contrasted in such a way, not apis product. my fault. i should have checked... http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=233290
once again, sorry. but when someone is saying that product "A" sucks because it doesn't instantly cycle a tank.... try product "B", it's better... it should go without saying that the reasoning for suggesting the replacement product should not have the same "downfall" so to say...
"instantly working to establish"... makes more sense. thanks for clearing that up.
i must say it is kind of hard to make heads or tails of things with certain "representatives" (we know he doesn't work for you) chiming in with pamphlets of over zealous information/opinion.
also... it was seachems stability that was contrasted in such a way, not apis product. my fault. i should have checked... http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=233290
once again, sorry. but when someone is saying that product "A" sucks because it doesn't instantly cycle a tank.... try product "B", it's better... it should go without saying that the reasoning for suggesting the replacement product should not have the same "downfall" so to say...
"instantly working to establish"... makes more sense. thanks for clearing that up.
GoldLenny
Senior Member? Do I get a 5% disc.?
Dun,
Dr. Tim's product instantly starts cycling the tank. Seachem's Stability, by my own experience AND their own admissions, which I've posted quotes from their own reps in the other thread, DOES NOT do anything instantly and they admit it can take a week or two or more before it starts the cycling process.
I wish the OP in this thread had posted numbers for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate on their tank before they added Dr. Tim's One And Only and then not have gone out of town for several days so they could have done daily testing afterwards so we'd have better data but IF they were having to do daily 33% to 50% PWC's on the tank prior to using Dr. Tim's One And Only, you can presume they were having moderate to serious ammonia and/or nitrite issues on the tank... and now they're not.
Also, depending on their test kit, they could have 0.0 ammonia levels. I know of at least one popular master test kit (NOT API's Master Test Kit) that had the ammonia test card at "less than 0.25ppm" as their bottom level instead of having a 0.0ppm for the bottom level and if the OP is using that kit, they could be reporting 0.25ppm when it might actually be 0.0ppm.
Dr. Tim's product instantly starts cycling the tank. Seachem's Stability, by my own experience AND their own admissions, which I've posted quotes from their own reps in the other thread, DOES NOT do anything instantly and they admit it can take a week or two or more before it starts the cycling process.
I wish the OP in this thread had posted numbers for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate on their tank before they added Dr. Tim's One And Only and then not have gone out of town for several days so they could have done daily testing afterwards so we'd have better data but IF they were having to do daily 33% to 50% PWC's on the tank prior to using Dr. Tim's One And Only, you can presume they were having moderate to serious ammonia and/or nitrite issues on the tank... and now they're not.
Also, depending on their test kit, they could have 0.0 ammonia levels. I know of at least one popular master test kit (NOT API's Master Test Kit) that had the ammonia test card at "less than 0.25ppm" as their bottom level instead of having a 0.0ppm for the bottom level and if the OP is using that kit, they could be reporting 0.25ppm when it might actually be 0.0ppm.
The product is real and the product does work.
the product use to be called Biospira. when properly stored and administered works very much like seeding a tank with media from an existing tank.
the difference between Dr. Tims and Seachem's stability is the fact that Dr Tims uses 'live' bacteria. stability uses bacteria that is dormant.
even when seeding a tank with media you may see a small spike in ammonia..(very common) until the bacteria gets established.. the product will dramatically reduce the cycling time.
the product use to be called Biospira. when properly stored and administered works very much like seeding a tank with media from an existing tank.
the difference between Dr. Tims and Seachem's stability is the fact that Dr Tims uses 'live' bacteria. stability uses bacteria that is dormant.
even when seeding a tank with media you may see a small spike in ammonia..(very common) until the bacteria gets established.. the product will dramatically reduce the cycling time.
dundadundun - thanks and no worries. I understand what you are saying and how words and phrase become implied. We're both here to help others and what we all need is to share a common terminology so everyone clearly understands what it meant by 'instant', 'established' and other words tossed about.
cheers all
cheers all
I used Biospira (now DocTims) on my first tank and I believe it did do what it claims to do...the problem in my case is that the LFS never told me about the nitrogen cycle and that there were things I should be testing for too. Lost some fish but eventually my tank was stabilized and much quicker than when I tried fishless cycling my other tank.
It really does work IME. Problems arise when other people market it as an 'instant' cycler when in reality it does take time to establish. I know I was fooled.
It really does work IME. Problems arise when other people market it as an 'instant' cycler when in reality it does take time to establish. I know I was fooled.
Just before I added Dr. Tim's One and Only I did a 50% water change because my ammonia was at .5 and I was going to be gone for three days.
Sorry but sometimes life gets in the way. I turned 40 this week and my son turned 3. My wife decided a camping trip would make a good getaway to celebrate our birthdays. [SARCASM] It was very inconsiderate of her to not give the fish first priority.[/SARCASM]
I am just 1 of the 10 people Dr Tim sent samples to. My situation may not have been ideal but I assume you will see other reviews coming in. I still hope my story adds to the overall narrative.
Was consistently getting ammonia readings of either .25 or .50 daily. The book I read really stresses water changes during the cycling process so I was going to change out water regardless. I did not have detectable amounts of nitrites or nitrates prior to my trip.
My ammonia test kit is made by API
I am using the 5 in 1 test strips to check for nitrites and nitrates ( I have read on these forums that the strips are not prefered. I just ordered a master kit from Walmart online). As of this morning there are no detectable nitrates and .15 nitrites. So I am certainly not cycled yet but the process is moving and I managed to get through my 3 day trip without ammonia poisoning
GoldLenny
Senior Member? Do I get a 5% disc.?
OK. Once you get your API master test kit, we will have a better idea of what is happening.
I'm presuming you are using a dechlorinator on your tap water? What brand and product name? Your ammonia readings could easily be coming right from your tap water.
Depending on your pH, you may not be having any real ammonia issues unless your pH is above 8.0. If you have a low pH down in the low 6's, you could have 3-5ppm of ammonia and not have any problems. If you have a high pH in the 8's, even .25ppm can be toxic.
What are your numbers from your dip sticks? While they aren't highly accurate and can vary from stick to stick, if you've kept a log of their numbers, we can at least get a general idea of your other numbers.
Also, do a 48 hour tap water baseline test on your tap water... using the dip sticks so we can see what's happening out of the tap.
Here's a snip from my blog, "Find Your Tap / Source Water Baseline"...
Quite often you are told to test your tank water chemistry (parameters) for things like ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, temperature, KH and GH... the basic tests that most fish keepers should have. Something you are not often told is that you should know your tap/source water parameters and what happens to your tap/source water after you fill your tank or do a PWC (partial water change). The pH will usually change a little or a lot. There may be ammonia, nitrite or nitrate in your tap/source water. The KH and GH could change or be non-existent.
To find your tap/source water baseline, you should run your cold water for a minute or two to flush out any stagnant water in your home pipes. Then fill a one gallon bucket or other open top container. You need a large opening to have adequate surface area. After filling the bucket, immediately test it for all of your tests (preferably the seven mentioned above). Record your numbers. Add your dechlor product. Test for ammonia again. Record number.
If you have chloramine treated water, when you add your dechlor product, it will break the bond between the chlorine and ammonia so you will get a slight ammonia reading. Normally, it's not more than 0.5ppm (which is easily converted in your biological filtration in an established tank but this level can cause alarm in a new tank depending on the pH and temperature).
Now set the bucket on the side and wait 24 to 48 hours and test the water again and compare the numbers. You could also test it at 24 and 48 hours to get even more information about what happens to your tap/source water once it gets into your tank during PWC's. You can speed up this 48 hour time period by adding an air stone to the bucket to agitate the water constantly. If you don't have an extra air pump and stone, then just stir the water regularly to increase the outgasing of CO2 and any other gases in the water that will outgas once in your aquarium anyhow.
Some tap/source waters have high CO2 levels out of the tap which results in a low pH right out the tap but then as the CO2 outgases, the pH stabilizes to a higher level. Other tap waters have buffers that raise the pH out of the tap but then these buffers wear out quickly when exposed to light, air and temperature changes and the pH will drop.
Also, if you have tropical fish and regularly add hot water to your cold water to raise the temperature to match the tank temperature, you should know what your hot water parameters are as well. Your hot water heater is basically a distillery that is boiling the water which causes the chemistry to change. Many of the additives to your water will come out of solution and settle in the bottom of your hot water heater. You will notice a faucet on the bottom of your hot water heater. Most people don't do this but you should partially drain your hot water heater once a year to remove this sediment. This sediment will eventually cause your hot water heater to fail. Also, it's not good for your fish. Usually, it's just a matter of hooking up a quality garden hose to the faucet, running it out your back door and then open the faucet to let the sediment and sludge flush out until the water is coming out clear. Read your owners manual or online sources for more information on how to do proper maintenance to your hot water heater.
To learn more about the water quality for your area, in the USA, check here:
http://www.epa.gov/safewater/dwinfo/index.html
I'm presuming you are using a dechlorinator on your tap water? What brand and product name? Your ammonia readings could easily be coming right from your tap water.
Depending on your pH, you may not be having any real ammonia issues unless your pH is above 8.0. If you have a low pH down in the low 6's, you could have 3-5ppm of ammonia and not have any problems. If you have a high pH in the 8's, even .25ppm can be toxic.
What are your numbers from your dip sticks? While they aren't highly accurate and can vary from stick to stick, if you've kept a log of their numbers, we can at least get a general idea of your other numbers.
Also, do a 48 hour tap water baseline test on your tap water... using the dip sticks so we can see what's happening out of the tap.
Here's a snip from my blog, "Find Your Tap / Source Water Baseline"...
Quite often you are told to test your tank water chemistry (parameters) for things like ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, temperature, KH and GH... the basic tests that most fish keepers should have. Something you are not often told is that you should know your tap/source water parameters and what happens to your tap/source water after you fill your tank or do a PWC (partial water change). The pH will usually change a little or a lot. There may be ammonia, nitrite or nitrate in your tap/source water. The KH and GH could change or be non-existent.
To find your tap/source water baseline, you should run your cold water for a minute or two to flush out any stagnant water in your home pipes. Then fill a one gallon bucket or other open top container. You need a large opening to have adequate surface area. After filling the bucket, immediately test it for all of your tests (preferably the seven mentioned above). Record your numbers. Add your dechlor product. Test for ammonia again. Record number.
If you have chloramine treated water, when you add your dechlor product, it will break the bond between the chlorine and ammonia so you will get a slight ammonia reading. Normally, it's not more than 0.5ppm (which is easily converted in your biological filtration in an established tank but this level can cause alarm in a new tank depending on the pH and temperature).
Now set the bucket on the side and wait 24 to 48 hours and test the water again and compare the numbers. You could also test it at 24 and 48 hours to get even more information about what happens to your tap/source water once it gets into your tank during PWC's. You can speed up this 48 hour time period by adding an air stone to the bucket to agitate the water constantly. If you don't have an extra air pump and stone, then just stir the water regularly to increase the outgasing of CO2 and any other gases in the water that will outgas once in your aquarium anyhow.
Some tap/source waters have high CO2 levels out of the tap which results in a low pH right out the tap but then as the CO2 outgases, the pH stabilizes to a higher level. Other tap waters have buffers that raise the pH out of the tap but then these buffers wear out quickly when exposed to light, air and temperature changes and the pH will drop.
Also, if you have tropical fish and regularly add hot water to your cold water to raise the temperature to match the tank temperature, you should know what your hot water parameters are as well. Your hot water heater is basically a distillery that is boiling the water which causes the chemistry to change. Many of the additives to your water will come out of solution and settle in the bottom of your hot water heater. You will notice a faucet on the bottom of your hot water heater. Most people don't do this but you should partially drain your hot water heater once a year to remove this sediment. This sediment will eventually cause your hot water heater to fail. Also, it's not good for your fish. Usually, it's just a matter of hooking up a quality garden hose to the faucet, running it out your back door and then open the faucet to let the sediment and sludge flush out until the water is coming out clear. Read your owners manual or online sources for more information on how to do proper maintenance to your hot water heater.
To learn more about the water quality for your area, in the USA, check here:
http://www.epa.gov/safewater/dwinfo/index.html
so... thumbs up from:
rb
star_rider
jpappy
nosuperstitions
mgamer
goldlenny
platytudes??? looks like a maybe
and one positive review... with a decent outcome considering the situation.
correct me if i'm wrong.
rb
star_rider
jpappy
nosuperstitions
mgamer
goldlenny
platytudes??? looks like a maybe
and one positive review... with a decent outcome considering the situation.
correct me if i'm wrong.
