EI dosing method question

My brief synopsis of my hour conversation with Skillet about EI dosing leaves alot of holes in his total game plan. He planned on testing his well water source and current tank water for conclusive parameters. My suggestions were meant as a starting point that will need to adjusted. My typo of kh vs gh booster is an error. I don't use the booster and was unaware of it's contents. We also discussed the root tabs for his large sword and heavy root feeders. The calculator I use does not list the booster an option. I will not be able to assist him in future calculations unless he uses the individual ferts on his 120g tank. Sorry if I have led Skillet to incorrectly dose his tank based on my personal way of applying the EI method.
 
Peanutbowl: My tap contains 7 to 15pmm of nitrates. It varies seasonally. The tanks are all heavily planted, have heavy fish loads and over filtration. The water usually tests 15 to 40pmm of nitrates before weekly 50% water changes. I do not dose any nitrates only monthly add api plant tabs around key root feeding plants. The water is liquid rock and have placed 50+ drops during the testing of gh and have never reached the saturation point to have the color change. I dose mgso4 at half the recomended level of EI just to be safe. Potassium k2so4 is dosed at the correct EI dosage. Phosphates are dosed at half as the tap contains 1-3ppm also depending on the season. THe CSM+B solution is mixed into 1000ml water with 25ml of seachem iron added. See you at DSAS next monday.... P.S. I've got 4lbs of kno3 if you use any, I just don't seem to need it.
 
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Peanutbowl: My tap contains 7 to 15pmm of nitrates. It varies seasonally. The tanks are all heavily planted, have heavy fish loads and over filtration. The water usually tests 15 to 40pmm of nitrates before weekly 50% water changes. I do not dose any nitrates only monthly add api plant tabs around key root feeding plants. The water is liquid rock and have placed 50+ drops during the testing of gh and have never reached the saturation point to have the color change. I dose mgso4 at half the recomended level of EI just to be safe. Potassium k2so4 is dosed at the correct EI dosage. Phosphates are dosed at half as the tap contains 1-3ppm also depending on the season. THe CSM+B solution is mixed into 1000ml water with 25ml of seachem iron added. See you at DSAS next monday.... P.S. I've got 4lbs of kno3 if you use any, I just don't seem to need it.

EI does not have a suggested nor recommeneds Mg levels, and I'm not sure what you mean, or anyone means by safe "Mg levels".

Can you explain further?
What is a bad level of Mg?
What is just enough?


Regards,
Tom Barr
 
OK, I am going to take a well water sample to my fisheries class tomorrow. We us Lammotte tests up there. I will check and see how much NO3 I have in my tap for sure. I will also bring my aquarium water. I am using Seachem Equilibrium as a GH booster for now, had no idea that it contained K. I will hold off dosing K2SO4 for potassium since I very well now see that I am getting plenty of K through my gh booster, KNO3 and KH2PO4. (This is right, right?) Thanks for all the help guys.

A good idea is to make the NO3 reference standard, your teacher should like this and be willing to help you make a standard calibration curve for the Lamotte test kit. I'd make a solution as follows:

Here's a way to make 10, 20, 30 and 40 ppm NO3 reference solutions:

Add 1.631 g of KNO3 to 1 L DI/RO water. This makes a 1000 ppm NO3 solution. (It's really a 1000.29 ppm solution.)

Add 2 mL of the 1000 ppm solution to 18 mL of DI/RO water. This makes 20 mL of a 100 ppm NO3 solution.

Add 15 mL of the 100 ppm solution to 15 mL of DI/RO water. This makes 30 mL of a 50 ppm NO3 solution.

To make a 10 ppm NO3 solution:
Add 2 mL of the 50 ppm solution to 8 mL of DI/RO water. This makes 10 mL of a 10 ppm NO3 solution.

To make a 20 ppm NO3 solution:
Add 4 mL of the 50 ppm solution to 6 mL of DI/RO water. This makes 10 mL of a 20 ppm NO3 solution.

To make a 30 ppm NO3 solution:
Add 6 mL of the 50 ppm solution to 4 mL of DI/RO water. This makes 10 mL of a 30 ppm NO3 solution.

To make a 40 ppm NO3 solution:
Add 8 mL of the 50 ppm solution to 2 mL of DI/RO water. This makes 10 mL of a 40 ppm NO3 solution.

There you go, now you can check to the test and you should plan on doing this for each parameter you measure in the course of your academic career.

Otherwise, you are simply guessing and assuming the test is correct, a 10-15$ cheapo API test kit is accurate without ever checking to see? I've calibrated several test from API, they read 40ppm of NO3 when it was pure RO/DI water. Some came close, others did not, most cheaper test kits where way off test kit to test kit. +/- 10-20ppm is not particularly accurate in the higher ranges either. Color charts are poor and you need a reference for that for your eyes alone. Even with a 10,000$ beckman analyzer or 50$ lamotte or a 15$ API test kit.

Would you use a pH meter without using the stand 4 and 7(or 10pH) references to calibrate it? Testing is more involved if you want to do it right and be sure. If not, then do not bother with testing and go water changes and observe the tank. 95% of this hobby is good low/moderate light and good CO2 management(if used). Nutrients are easy, but if you test, test the right way.

Then you know the results are good and you can now base a management plan/decision for dosing on the results. This is what the class would require if it was a lab exercise.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 
Hello Tom, I've been using the Nutri-Calc 1.9.3 by Quenton as my starting point for EI dosing. It is set with a target of 10ppm for magnesium. Thus using my 75g as an example dosing 2 3/8 tsp mgso4 3x between weekly 50% water changes. I was under the impression excessive mg could cause stunting. I will try to post screen shot of the software.

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i asked about the nitrate dosing because i have seen izzy's reds and they are great. his plants grow well in his conditions, that's for sure. bringing the red out in plants is my next real goal. any insight as to dosing that might help deliver reds better would be fantastic. or is red a color thing that has more to do with bulbs?

it's my understanding that EI dosing involves having excesses of nutrients so that nothing bottoms out, basically. dosing gh should fall under that same rule, right?:D
 
Hello Peanutbowl, wish I had a good answer to my red plants. I think it is a combination of the light, extra iron dosed and co2. The 4x55/65 compact fl. are going on past one year and need to be replaced.

Was thinking of going with a new 4x54 t5ho fixture instead of just replacing the bulbs. The current bulb are 2 - 8800k, 1-10000k and 1 6700k... I'm trying to justify the better par lights with the electrical savings when deregulation takes place very soon. I might run 2x54 eight hours with a 4 hour burst of 2x54 during the middle.

Tom Barr will have better scientific insight on bringing out the reds.
 
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