Hehehe....they're schooling around my tank right now! Their colors picked up the moment they were acclimated. Hurray brilliant rasboras!!!!!! 
Fed up!!!!! Ideas, anyone?
- Thread starter FireDancer7905
- Start date
As far as the poster who's sink clogged. , Have you tried using the toilet instead of the sink? 
(This came recommended to me buy a plumber friend who thought putting the tank in the bathroom was a great idea, low on maintenance. I don't even have to flush my toilet, it just drains as it goes. Ok well I do right before I leave. 
)
Anyway, I think toilets have a little bit, er, larger room to prevent things from getting plugged. Even then, I like an Ol' Betsy around anyways! (Old sitcom reference.)
, Have you tried using the toilet instead of the sink? (This came recommended to me buy a plumber friend who thought putting the tank in the bathroom was a great idea, low on maintenance. I don't even have to flush my toilet, it just drains as it goes. Ok well I do right before I leave. )Anyway, I think toilets have a little bit, er, larger room to prevent things from getting plugged. Even then, I like an Ol' Betsy around anyways! (Old sitcom reference.
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CHOMPERS said:
I would love to hear more about this - it seems a lot of drip information and water change information doesn't always pertain to smaller tanks. I'm concerned with my top choice of (future) fish, neon tetras, and the smaller size of the tank, 12g. For one, I'd like to use a drip method to acclimate them when they arrive, but I'd like to see if there's also some simple type of system to 'sneak' water changes past the little guys so they don't notice. As quoted, I'm concerned most about the pH issue, since they are sensitive, and I'm still working on getting even readings with my kH.
So how's it done? Drill a hole in a bucket... hook up some airline tubing... block off the end almost entirely to let a small stream flow, preferably into the filter? So the water just appears to be coming from the outake of the filter like the little guys are used to? I have a 6' radius of a sink, a bathtub and a toilet to draw from, but will likely pre-treat and condition water in buckets.
Thanks for some inspiration, looking for any other potential ideas on how to accomplish this on a regular basis.
So if you have... very sensitive fish... in a smaller size containment with less room for error... which require fresh water very regularly... that has to either match or change things minimally over time... what to do?
Cherry barbs! Sure they arn't as colourful but very hardy and like to school and like to dash around the tank having a good time.
Seems to me the people who are losing neons are the ones who are doing the 50% water changes.
I know this doesn't prove anything, but I did a quick search on the Net and the first article to discuss frequency and % of water changes is as follows below:
From : http://www.pets-warehouse.com/waterchg.htm
Aquarium Water Changes... the right way
Water changes....we all do them, or should be doing them. Yet, are they being done for the benefit of the animals, or for the convenience of the hobbyist? Water changes involve more than just removing water from the tank, as we shall see.
Water changes are an essential part of maintaining the quality of the captive environment. Without them, particulate would accumulate in the substrate, pollutants such as nitrate and phosphate would increase to toxic levels, and the pH and alkalinity of the system would drop. Essential minor and trace elements would be depleted as well. Water changes remove these and other pollutants while at the same time replenishing diminished elements.
What's the best way to do a water change?
Using a gravel cleaning siphon. These easy to use devices not only remove water from the system, but at the same time will remove particulate from the gravel bed. These particulate will, over time, decay and degrade water quality. Gravel cleaning will also keep the gravel "open", allowing for a free exchange of food and oxygen between the water and the bacteria living on the gravel. Simply removing water from the system, while removing dissolved pollutants, does nothing to remove particulate in the gravel and is not as effective a method as using a gravel cleaner.
How much water can be changed at one time? Virtually all of it, should an emergency arise. Under normal conditions, you should not have to remove more than 10% to 25% of the tanks' volume. And don't worry about doing water changes while the system is cycling...it will not affect the cycle at all, after the initial 2-3 weeks.
How often should water changes be done? That depends on water quality parameters and bioload. A chronically overstocked tank will require larger water changes more frequently than will an understocked tank. Normally, 10% once a week or 25% once a month is adequate. If you notice that water quality is not improving, you can increase the amount, frequency, or both. However, try not to exceed a 50% water change if it can be helped. As an example we recommend a 5 gallon change on a 55g tank preferably weekly.
Water that is being added back to the system should be at the same temperature as the water in the tank, ± 2ºF, and free of chlorine, chloramine, heavy metals, and other pollutants. Using a "slimy" water conditioner or a chloramine remover will usually help ensure that incoming water is satisfactory. In some agricultural or industrial areas, incoming water should also be checked for nitrate and phosphate. If significant quantities of either are found, further treatment may be required to remove these pollutants, or the hobbyist should consider using reverse osmosis (RO) or deionized (DI) water.
Also at this time you should add all your supplements such as salt, pH stabilizers, buffers, etc. to this water.
Water Changing Tips:
Use a gravel cleaning siphon whenever you do a water change. This way, you will remove trapped particulate from the gravel at the same time you are removing dissolved pollutants.
While the use of auto-filling siphons is convenient, adding raw untreated tapetater into your tank can lead to disaster. Always precondition water before adding it to your system.
Never use hot water to adjust temperature. Heavy metals such as copper and lead can be found in greater quantity in hot water. In addition, some older water heaters may leach toxic amounts of zinc into the water. Heavy metals can be removed from tapetater by the addition of "slimy" water conditioners. These products contain chemicals that will bind these metals, rendering them harmless. Carbon and certain resins will also remove heavy metals from water.
More frequent, smaller water changes are usually more desirable than one large water change. Doing this will keep the water quality from changing to drastically.
Don't worry about water changing during cycling. Normal water changes will not affect this process, after 2-3 weeks.
For reef systems, or in areas where tap water is not up to par, the use of reverse osmosis (RO) or RO deionized water is recommended.
Thoroughly check well water before using it. Many wells are now contaminated with agricultural and industrial pollutants.
Always allow your tap water to run at least five minutes before using it. This will aid in decreasing the dissolved heavy metal content.
I know this doesn't prove anything, but I did a quick search on the Net and the first article to discuss frequency and % of water changes is as follows below:
From : http://www.pets-warehouse.com/waterchg.htm
Aquarium Water Changes... the right way
Water changes....we all do them, or should be doing them. Yet, are they being done for the benefit of the animals, or for the convenience of the hobbyist? Water changes involve more than just removing water from the tank, as we shall see.
Water changes are an essential part of maintaining the quality of the captive environment. Without them, particulate would accumulate in the substrate, pollutants such as nitrate and phosphate would increase to toxic levels, and the pH and alkalinity of the system would drop. Essential minor and trace elements would be depleted as well. Water changes remove these and other pollutants while at the same time replenishing diminished elements.
What's the best way to do a water change?
Using a gravel cleaning siphon. These easy to use devices not only remove water from the system, but at the same time will remove particulate from the gravel bed. These particulate will, over time, decay and degrade water quality. Gravel cleaning will also keep the gravel "open", allowing for a free exchange of food and oxygen between the water and the bacteria living on the gravel. Simply removing water from the system, while removing dissolved pollutants, does nothing to remove particulate in the gravel and is not as effective a method as using a gravel cleaner.
How much water can be changed at one time? Virtually all of it, should an emergency arise. Under normal conditions, you should not have to remove more than 10% to 25% of the tanks' volume. And don't worry about doing water changes while the system is cycling...it will not affect the cycle at all, after the initial 2-3 weeks.
How often should water changes be done? That depends on water quality parameters and bioload. A chronically overstocked tank will require larger water changes more frequently than will an understocked tank. Normally, 10% once a week or 25% once a month is adequate. If you notice that water quality is not improving, you can increase the amount, frequency, or both. However, try not to exceed a 50% water change if it can be helped. As an example we recommend a 5 gallon change on a 55g tank preferably weekly.
Water that is being added back to the system should be at the same temperature as the water in the tank, ± 2ºF, and free of chlorine, chloramine, heavy metals, and other pollutants. Using a "slimy" water conditioner or a chloramine remover will usually help ensure that incoming water is satisfactory. In some agricultural or industrial areas, incoming water should also be checked for nitrate and phosphate. If significant quantities of either are found, further treatment may be required to remove these pollutants, or the hobbyist should consider using reverse osmosis (RO) or deionized (DI) water.
Also at this time you should add all your supplements such as salt, pH stabilizers, buffers, etc. to this water.
Water Changing Tips:
Use a gravel cleaning siphon whenever you do a water change. This way, you will remove trapped particulate from the gravel at the same time you are removing dissolved pollutants.
While the use of auto-filling siphons is convenient, adding raw untreated tapetater into your tank can lead to disaster. Always precondition water before adding it to your system.
Never use hot water to adjust temperature. Heavy metals such as copper and lead can be found in greater quantity in hot water. In addition, some older water heaters may leach toxic amounts of zinc into the water. Heavy metals can be removed from tapetater by the addition of "slimy" water conditioners. These products contain chemicals that will bind these metals, rendering them harmless. Carbon and certain resins will also remove heavy metals from water.
More frequent, smaller water changes are usually more desirable than one large water change. Doing this will keep the water quality from changing to drastically.
Don't worry about water changing during cycling. Normal water changes will not affect this process, after 2-3 weeks.
For reef systems, or in areas where tap water is not up to par, the use of reverse osmosis (RO) or RO deionized water is recommended.
Thoroughly check well water before using it. Many wells are now contaminated with agricultural and industrial pollutants.
Always allow your tap water to run at least five minutes before using it. This will aid in decreasing the dissolved heavy metal content.
I strongly disagree with the previous article. I don't know any long term experienced and successful fish keepers that would agree that a 25% water change once a month is sufficient.
In the past 6 months there has been a huge change in aquaria central. Many of our more experienced fish keepers are no longer here. Every one of them would agree that 50% water changes are fine. Every one of them would disagree with the article that advocates 25% water changes once a month.
That being said, I would take the advice given here with a grain of salt, maybe 2 or 3 large grains of salt. There are still very knowledgable people here, but there are a lot of inexperienced people here freely giving advice. I woul look at profiles, at post counts, or more importantly, how long they've been active on the forums.
My intention is not to stir up dissention or bring up past wrongs, but to make people stop and think about the advice given here and to consider whether it is helpful or not. And to consider the source of information. I personally trust very few articles written by commercial sources. I would look for articles done by fish keepers on places like here (did they return?), planted tank.net, monsterfishkeepers, skeptical aquarist, Tom Barre's site, Roan's new site, cichlid-forum, and others as opposed to the article from the commercial site above. That article reminds me of the care sheets given out by Petco.
My two cents, take it for what it's worth. But do your research, listen to experienced fish keepers (it helped me tremendously when I started), and be a little skeptical.
Jackie
In the past 6 months there has been a huge change in aquaria central. Many of our more experienced fish keepers are no longer here. Every one of them would agree that 50% water changes are fine. Every one of them would disagree with the article that advocates 25% water changes once a month.
That being said, I would take the advice given here with a grain of salt, maybe 2 or 3 large grains of salt. There are still very knowledgable people here, but there are a lot of inexperienced people here freely giving advice. I woul look at profiles, at post counts, or more importantly, how long they've been active on the forums.
My intention is not to stir up dissention or bring up past wrongs, but to make people stop and think about the advice given here and to consider whether it is helpful or not. And to consider the source of information. I personally trust very few articles written by commercial sources. I would look for articles done by fish keepers on places like here (did they return?), planted tank.net, monsterfishkeepers, skeptical aquarist, Tom Barre's site, Roan's new site, cichlid-forum, and others as opposed to the article from the commercial site above. That article reminds me of the care sheets given out by Petco.
My two cents, take it for what it's worth. But do your research, listen to experienced fish keepers (it helped me tremendously when I started), and be a little skeptical.
Jackie
Ok well that was an ok read. Unfortunately, I'm looking for some ways to drip water slowly in to the tank, giving the fish a better chance of not being shocked by a minor difference in pH etc.
So far I'm thinking, buy a 5G bucket (that's just shy of 50%), get some way to elevate it higher than the tank (I may have to get a step ladder or something) and use and air line drip, and let it go for half a day. If I can't get it elevated, I may just put a small hole in the bucket, leave my airline tubing in there permanently, and let water pressure hopefully push it into the tank. (It might not technically be "drip" but it's probably still a smaller stream of water.)
And I don't know, it seems like a lot of people on this forum still lose Neons doing regular, well handled water maintenance. I think they just tend to be more sensitive and there has to be some way to make the process less stressful on them. I wish that poster who mentioned doing his water changes by drip method would put in an appearance.
What has been the reason behind the change in the AC forum? That was an interesting post.
So far I'm thinking, buy a 5G bucket (that's just shy of 50%), get some way to elevate it higher than the tank (I may have to get a step ladder or something) and use and air line drip, and let it go for half a day. If I can't get it elevated, I may just put a small hole in the bucket, leave my airline tubing in there permanently, and let water pressure hopefully push it into the tank. (It might not technically be "drip" but it's probably still a smaller stream of water.)
And I don't know, it seems like a lot of people on this forum still lose Neons doing regular, well handled water maintenance. I think they just tend to be more sensitive and there has to be some way to make the process less stressful on them. I wish that poster who mentioned doing his water changes by drip method would put in an appearance.
What has been the reason behind the change in the AC forum? That was an interesting post.
minnesotagal866 said:
While I agree that one should consider one's sources carefully, it seems not a little condescending to assume that anyone new to the forums must also be new to fishkeeping and therefore lacking an educated and/or experienced opinion. Perhaps one ought to be judged on the substance of ones posts rather than how many or for how long.
"While the use of auto-filling siphons is convenient, adding raw untreated tapetater into your tank can lead to disaster. Always precondition water before adding it to your system."
:thud: Sheesh, I'm still trying to figure out what a "tapetater" is. Some kind of special fish tater? An especially absorbent tater? Or a watermelon/tater hybrid?
:thud: Sheesh, I'm still trying to figure out what a "tapetater" is. Some kind of special fish tater? An especially absorbent tater? Or a watermelon/tater hybrid?
Some people here would suggest not using a "grain of salt" for anything. /chuckle
Anyway, it seems to Interweb human nature to assume people are ignorant/wrong until proven otherwise. And maybe not even then!
I do agree that some times the air of superiority can really dishearten newer people. In my case, I thought I did everything right, I studied up on a particular forums' articles on fishless cycling, etc. I made sure my ammonia source didn't have perfumes or dyes like they said, and that it was CLEAR Ammonia. (Well it was.) Only after I'd been using it for 10 days, the experts jumped all over me for using ammonia that included Surfactants. Well great. It wasn't like I did it on purpose. In fact, it would have been nice to include that piece of information with all of the OTHER details, rather than making me feel like I was the worst fishkeeper in the world, despite not even owning ONE fish yet, because THEY didn't offer me 100% of the information that I, as a non-ammonia product expert, didn't know?! It was enough to depress me for weeks.
I can understand why those who are trying very hard, can feel disillusioned by others who treat them as if they're failures or at best, ignorant in comparison.
The unpleasant thing as was pointed out in a Stocking thread, is what are we newbies supposed to do? Half the time even the experts don't agree on something as simple as How Many Neon Tetras Go in a 10g?
Anyway, it seems to Interweb human nature to assume people are ignorant/wrong until proven otherwise. And maybe not even then!
I do agree that some times the air of superiority can really dishearten newer people. In my case, I thought I did everything right, I studied up on a particular forums' articles on fishless cycling, etc. I made sure my ammonia source didn't have perfumes or dyes like they said, and that it was CLEAR Ammonia. (Well it was.) Only after I'd been using it for 10 days, the experts jumped all over me for using ammonia that included Surfactants. Well great. It wasn't like I did it on purpose. In fact, it would have been nice to include that piece of information with all of the OTHER details, rather than making me feel like I was the worst fishkeeper in the world, despite not even owning ONE fish yet, because THEY didn't offer me 100% of the information that I, as a non-ammonia product expert, didn't know?! It was enough to depress me for weeks.
I can understand why those who are trying very hard, can feel disillusioned by others who treat them as if they're failures or at best, ignorant in comparison.
The unpleasant thing as was pointed out in a Stocking thread, is what are we newbies supposed to do? Half the time even the experts don't agree on something as simple as How Many Neon Tetras Go in a 10g?
