Fertilizer Recommendations & Info - the Informal FAQ

help needed in dosing

I have the following to be added to my 320 litres planted tank.

K2SO4
KNO3
KH2PO4
MGSO4
CACO3
CACL2
PMDD WHICH I NOW ADD ABOUT 1ML DAILY
RAW IRON WHICH I NOW ADD 0.5ML DAILY

wat is the quantity of these do i add daily to my densely planted tank daily(please specify in terms of teaspoon)?

Early reply appreciated....
 
generics?

OK here's a question. This thread says one could use products such as Fleet Enema or a specific brand of stump remover. Question is about the Fleet product. Can one use a generic that has the same active ingredient? I'm wondering if the slightly different inactive ingredients would affect the water chemistry. Has anyone had similar success with generic Fleet?
 
I am new to this site, and was reading through this thread. I found a number of posts made me laugh, while others disturbed me.

One of the most frequent questions I noticed was on how to know how much of or if add something. I was especially shocked by the responses that seemed to say "don't worry about it just add it without reguard to amount".

As Happy pointed out, most of the "too much PO4/NO3/Fe" has been gone over extensively. In a moderately planted tank with good CO2, there isn't too much worry regarding amount...if you're close to target for a given nutrient. Don't stick a sword plant, a few java ferns, some moss, and a few stems of Anacharis in a 55gal with 30W light over it and think you can dose away.

For those that are new to fertilizing, I suggest you start simple until you learn more. Stick with premixed aquarium fertilizers that contain Potassium, Iron and trace elements. Unless your using purified water these are the items you are most likely to be deficient in, at least at the beginning.

Good advice, but if one starts out heavily planted, they will quickly become nutrient deficient. Low light tanks are a different game compared to high light tanks.

1_luv_betta said:
i dunt get it!!!!!!!
can sumbody say it in a short kind of way?
Doubt it.
The part about test kits...they don't last forever.

The molecule mumbo jumbo...plants can't use iron unless it's in a specific form (the 2+ state/chelate) and the gluconate molecule (of which the iron is part of) is usable (at least part is) by the plant.


Aravind said:
wat is the quantity of these do i add daily to my densely planted tank daily(please specify in terms of teaspoon)?
You can use chucks calculator or the fertilator on APC. Both found in the stickies. PMDD incorporates macro and micro-nutrients usually. Are you asking for the pmdd formula for your tank or individual nutrient calculations?

StLouisan, I always used generic enema with no problem.

jgulecas, yes, for now. You may find that you still have to dose it if you have lots of plants, CO2, high light so it is still worth testing in this case.
 
A question??

I have a 60 liter 2feet tank. Will my plants grow quick or slow if i go with the following plan?

Put one 36W T5 compact lighting(the double tube one.
Buy eco complete substrate.

Do i still need to add ferts because the eco-comlete apparently turn fish waste and waste food to plant nutrients.

I am planning to grow amazon swrds and all teh beginner plants. I woud Love to grow ricca so would it grow with my 2/wpg lighting?

Regards.
 
wow this thread confused the heck out of me!
I am new to plants, , and this stuff went right over my head.the last time I got plants they were awsome, but died quickly. I am up grading my lights, (GE Fresh/Saltwater Fluorescent (20 watt) ) but no co2 will be added. I need to know if there is a one dose pill or what ever to put in my tank to do all its suposed to do in making my plants grow well. I am doing low light plants, and I have a gravel bottom. I do not know about fleets, iron etc, I need to know something easy and basic. soooooo tell me what product to buy that will work in my tank, how often its to be used and how and this info will be wonderful :)
my fish are cichlids, ( angels, parrot, sevrum firemouths) other tank will be electric yellow and blues.
 
If you thought about making your own fertilizers at a cheaper cost, here is what you need to replace the Flourish products.

aquariumfertilizer.com is a place to buy dry fertilizers at a low cost.
Total cost for me was $42.00 shipped for everything I needed to replace all products of Flourish. Not sure how much it makes, but I know it's cheaper then buying bottles already made by Seachem.

I sent them a email asking about what I needed and this is what they sent me.

Flourish = our PMDD PMDD = 1 part each of KNO3, KSO4, MgSO4, and CSM+B
Flourish Iron = our Iron Chelate
Flourish Potassium = our Potassium Sulfate (KSO4)
Flourish Nitrate = our Potassium Nitrate (KNO3)
Flourish Phosphorus = our Mono Potassium Phosphate (MKP)
Flourish Tabs = They are not yet on our website, but we our now selling our own AquariumFertilizer.com substrate fertilizer Tabs.
Flourish Trace = our Plantex CSM+B
--Plantex CSM Guaranteed Analysis:
--1.50%Total Magnesium (Mg)
--0.10% Copper (cu)(chelated)
--7.00% Iron (Fe)(chelated)
--2.00% Manganese (Mn)(chelated)
--0.06% Molybdenum (Mo)
--0.40% Zinc (Zn)(chelated)
--~1.18% Boron added to mix
--All chelated nutrients are
--chelated using EDTA.
--EDTA content (minimum) 55%

Cheapest I found Flourish fertilizer products are $5.00 per bottle plus shipping cost of $10.00
Local pet stores sell them at $10.00 to $14.00 per bottle plus tax.
 
Well, having read the whole thread and understood a lot less of it, I'm sticking to what I'm doing now. I added seachem flourite to the substrate and am dosing Flourish in my 20gal with 2.25 wpg over it, mostly because 1: it seems a LOT easier than preparing and figuring out dosages for DIY ferts, 2: My tank is only 20gal which means the Flourish bottles will last long enough to make the cost worth it, as opposed to larger tanks where the bottles will need replaced a lot more often. Regarding dosing amounts, I'm dosing 1/3 of the recommended dose on the bottle which is listed for a 60gal tank, not quite as often as recommended, and letting the fish do the rest. Since I started doing this my plants have started sprouting new leaves again, greened up some, and seem quite happy. If and when this stops working so well I'll check my nitrate level and if low I'll increase frequency of dosing on the flourish, and if THAT doesn't work, I'll start adding Flourish trace. I've never even SEEN test kits for most of these, and every time I see KNO3, KH2PO4, or some other chemical compound abreviation it just makes my eyes hurt! LOL! If the combo of Flourish and Flourish trace fails to kick things back in to gear, THEN I may consider looking in to dry ferts one at a time to see if the addition of one or another makes a difference. Any of the experts see anything wrong with this plan for a planted tank newb like myself? :)
 
Mindcrime are you using the whole seachem line? List each product your using and how much of each.
 
At this point, having just begun with ANY of this stuff, I just added Seachem Flourite substrate to the existing gravel bed and mixed it in a bit, then replanted the tank and started dosing Flourish only, 1/3 cap full about every 4 or 5 days. Did a water change about 3 days ago using bottled water to reduce hardness and PH after discovering that they are coming out of the tap higher than my test kit can read them. Currently my nitrate is around 15-20 ppm, GH is about 75, KH is around 100, and PH is about 7.2. Since I introduced the floutire and started using Flourish several plants that had been pretty much in "stasis" have come out of it and started popping up new leaves. One small anubias rysome has started to spit out 5 new leaves after having sat without a single new one poking up for over a month or so.

sidenote: Unless you're using pressurized CO2 on a high light tank, I don't believe the plants can/will consume so much that anyone should need to use ALL the Flourish products, especially not on a regular basis. This whole thread seems geared for the experts with high end, high tech, large tanks... a catagory I certainly don't fall into on any of these counts, lol!
 
I've suggested many methods and dosings over a long time to folks.
Most new folks really end up more confused at the end of large threads.
So what is it that they, like most of us when we where "new", want?
Something simple, easy, no chemistry lessons or test kits involved.
What else do they want? A nice looking planted tank. Most have some idea about keeping fish tanks.
You do this and avoid most of the dosing stuff by doing a non CO2 planted aquarium. There's soem trade offs there and caveats. But that's another thread.

1. They can do things like water changes pretty easy, no hard concepts there.
2. They can use things like teaspoons/mls volume measures
3. They can buy the cheap ferts rather than buy the vendor brands at 1000X more $
4. They can "garden" some(prune, preen leaves, trim etc).

Most can do this pretty easily. No background in chemistry is needed. No testing NO3/PO4/Fe, calibrating test kits, and spending lots of $ on name brand stuff.
Folks did not get into this hobby to do this. I do not care what anyone wants to say about advice, not one person I've met in well over 30 years has ever gotten in to this hobby to test water and learn chemistry. They get into it because they like the look of plants, like them when they see them grow, want a more natural look than plastic plants etc, mop up nutrients etc.

Taking a big step back and looking at the social issues why and what folks want, what their goals are is critical. From there, now you can see what is likely the best method to advise to a new person vs someone who might be obsessed about every detail vs someone who is less likely to care for things/lacks the time etc.

Dosing is actually a relative small part of the planted tank but still important, light and CO2 are the big issues.

For management, less light, moderate light is best. Generally 2 w/gal, not more. Less light= less CO2 demand. This makes adding CO2 much easier and less light also = slower, easier to manage growth rates.

Slower growth(Slower algae growth as well)= less nutrient dosing require, more wiggle room. Poor CO2 causes most of the issues folks tend to have.
So less light helps that crowd as well as those who mess up their dosing or are just not that attentive.

Dosing itself is really easy. Most new folks tend to be scared about it and particularly with dry fertilizers. They are taking a leaf of faith here. Just keep that in mind when helping them.

They are not sure what KNO3 is, or KH2PO4 and all this weird Chem lingo looking stuff. That's okay, they generally are okay with things like baking soda, they rarely call it "sodium bicarbonate" NaHCO3 :evil_lol:
They can add 1/4 teaspoon of baking soda no problem to a cookie recipe without getting too unsure. They should be able to do the same saltpeter or KNO3 by adding 1/4 teaspoon in the same manner.

If they make a mistake, they can do a large water change and re set the tank. That's simple.

So the dosing part only involves perhaps 3-4 things at most, folks might add every 2-3 days or they can do it daily if their habits are best suited, much like feeding the fish daily, they can feed the plant daily.

After doing this for a week or two, it becomes very simple and "old hat".
I add 2 teaspoons of KNO3, 1 teaspoon of KH2PO4, 50 mls of Tropica master grow every 2-3 days. I add 1 table spoon of GH booster after each water change(60% weekly etc).

I do not need to do anything else other than watch CO2, clean filters, prune etc.

Here's yet another view of EI dosing from another perspective which you might understand a bit better:
http://www.ukaps.org/EI.htm

Many of these folks are relatively new to all this as well.
But they have come a long way in a very short time frame.

For those not wanting to do much dosing, few water changes, then a non CO2 planted tank method/s are much better suited to your goals.
This does not mean you will grow a nice looking ADA style scape by simply not adding CO2 and no nutrients, far from it. It still takes patience, a lot more than many think, but the end result might be something you are happy with. As the light is also low, no CO2, the plant growth is slow.

This means the plants demand for nutrients is also slow.
So fish waste alone often, but not always, can meet the nutrient demands.

So for the CO2 enriched tanks, you will generally need to add ferts regularly(2-3x a week, to daily), maybe 1-3x a month for the non CO2 methods and then only a small amount if at all.
There are trade offs for both methods, but trying both of them is the best way to learn about each.




Regards,
Tom Barr
 
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