Figure 8 Puffer

Thanks for the help. I have a couple more questions if I decide to go brackish.

What is a inexpensive hydrometer to measure salinity.


I'm considering on going with dwarf puffers instead of the F8 due to tank requirements. The 70g tank deal fell through (literally, the guy dropped it)....
So for now I will only have a 12g setup.

Also, can I use my API fw test kit or do I need one for salt water to test brackish water?

Thanks for everyones tips
Scott
 
good news, if you decide on a DP instead of F8..... you're back in freshwater!!!

I'd keep a DP and 4 otos in a 12g if you planted it :) You could maybe do two DPs if you get them sexed F and F or M and F. And plant a LOT.
 
plenty of low-light plant options like crypts, java fern and various mosses.

Otos are otocinclus, a small Loricariid catfish.
 
otos are adorable, that's what they are :)
they are social and like a herd... and need to be introduced into an established tank with algae :)

oto1a.jpg
 
Here's a link to a great Figure 8 profile. They are fine in 15 gallon tanks, but I really recommend a 20g with good filtration for a single F8 as they are a messy eater. Well, all puffers are generally messy eaters and need good filtration with plenty of room. Most puffers will not accept tank mates, but figure 8 puffers are one of the few that will. I have mine in a 44g with a bunch of mollies and 8 bumble bee gobies.

From what I understand, f8's are a freshwater puffer in the wild, but they do not do well in freshwater in captivity. This is why they are considered a brackish puffer. If you decide to keep him, slowly raise the SG by adding marine salt to raise the SG by 1.002 per week. This is necessary since your tank is already cycled for freshwater. If you go any faster, you will kill off your beneficial bacteria.

The needs of F8s and dwarf puffers are almost identical except for tank size and brackish vs fresh. Otherwise, they both need hard, crunchy foods to wear down their teeth and are fairly aggressively territorial, especially as they get older. But, they have great personalities and are a really fun fish to keep.

That link above is to a really great website (www.thepufferforum.com) with tons of info about puffers in general and in specific puffer species.
 
sploke said:
The Instant Ocean swingarm hydrometer is what a lot of people use, it is cheap but you get what you pay for, accuracy-wise. This is the refractometer I have - more expensive but much more accurate
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The swing arm style really are not that bad ... I have both and my IO swing arm is almost bang on with my Refrac. ( I assume it's good ... it fell out of a lab at U of D ...)

And on the other hand ... when dealing with brackish is it really that important with the naturally occuring swings? 20 bucks vs. 100+?

The only thing I hate about swing arms is the little Weight falls out under rough handling, and the air bubble issues. You know you get arm bubbles on it then try to tap them off only to knock your weight out.
 
I'm having trouble finding a hydrometer locally that reads at the low end of the scale 1.000 - and up. Most start higher than that.

I think I "know" the answer to this, but can I add a little salt without measuring sg?
 
Dendrochirus said:
And on the other hand ... when dealing with brackish is it really that important with the naturally occuring swings? 20 bucks vs. 100+?
Click to expand...

My refractometer was about $45 bucks shipped...very reasonable and a worthwhile investment IMO...but I'm also running two BW tanks and two SW tanks.


scowldog said:
I think I "know" the answer to this, but can I add a little salt without measuring sg?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't....it will be very hard to control salinity during water changes, measure how much it fluctuates due to evaporation, etc.
 
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