Filament algae in High light Tank.

[Hutchewon]

Hi everybody-

I've had planted tanks for years but they have all been 2 watt per gallon or less tanks. For the first time, I have tank that is close to high light, 3.8 watts per gallon. Over a period of a month I have been fight filementateous algae. It seemed to be a small problem at first. I would do water changes and use the gravel cleaning attachment on the Python to get most of it off the plants. Because of all the water changes, the nitrate level has been low. Last knight I dosed it with KNO3 up to about 10 ppm. The temperature in the tank is running around 75 degrees. I am running the light 12 hours a day from 9 am to 9 pm. Since getting the nitrates to the 10ppm level the algae just seems worse. I am also pressure dosing CO2 with levels staying between 15 and 30 ppm. The tank is heavyly planted. Do I need to reduce the light, or will this situation cure itself once the plants kick into high gear?

Thanks in advance.

 

[cichlidkeeper91]

You should probably put you tank lights on for like 9 hours. Maybe that will help. Do you dose Flourish excel? I think that stuff helps. You can get alot of otocinlus algae eaters, I have some in my planted tank and they do somewhat good.

 

[jlee]

Hi,

Algae is caused by some sort of nutrient shortage. There is probably some nutrient that is low. Either Macros (nitrate, potassium, phosphate) or micros.

Are you dosing any other ferts? nitrate is only one of the macros. You should take a look at the EI method. Tom Barr has a good artical about it at http://www.barrreport.com/articles/1800-ei-light-less-techical-aspects-estimative-index.html

As for duration of lighting you could try a 2 hour lighting break during the day. I have my lights run 8:00 - 14:00 and then from 16:00 - 22:00 giving me 12 hours of light but with a 2 hour break midday. The plants will be able to handle this break during the day but its a different case for the algae. I've found the algae is not as good at dealing with this light break.

I hope this helps. Let us know how everything goes.

 

[Hutchewon]

Hi,

Algae is caused by some sort of nutrient shortage. There is probably some nutrient that is low. Either Macros (nitrate, potassium, phosphate) or micros.

Are you dosing any other ferts? nitrate is only one of the macros. You should take a look at the EI method. Tom Barr has a good artical about it at http://www.barrreport.com/articles/1800-ei-light-less-techical-aspects-estimative-index.html

As for duration of lighting you could try a 2 hour lighting break during the day. I have my lights run 8:00 - 14:00 and then from 16:00 - 22:00 giving me 12 hours of light but with a 2 hour break midday. The plants will be able to handle this break during the day but its a different case for the algae. I've found the algae is not as good at dealing with this light break.

I hope this helps. Let us know how everything goes.

I'm also dosing PMDD, but dosed the nitrates up because I read that would help with the algae. I'll have to play with the timer I'm using for my lights. I'm going to try cutting back the lights to 10 hours a day. I have 3 oto cats in the tank. As a matter of fact, they are the only fish in the tank right now.

 

[kjf91004]

Are you certain you have that much CO2 in your tank? Test kits can be a little off... perhaps it would be a good idea to slowly turn up the CO2 until the fish react and then turn it down a little for safety. Otherwise try a drop checker (Aquatic Plant Central has directions) to make sure other things in your tank water are not affecting the CO2 results. How do you diffuse your CO2?

I think lowering your photoperiod is a great start. Also, double check to make sure you are appropriately dosing micro and macros. It sounds like you are doing things right, but just to be safe.

Hopefully, this is a "new tank" sort of problem, and the plants will kick into gear and this issue will fade.

Be sure to get as much of it out of the tank as you can. It seems just when maximum frustration kicks in, and you're ready to give up, the algae will fade... so have faith. YOU CAN DO IT!

I have heard that a toothbrush works well for collecting the strands of algae.

 

[Hutchewon]

Are you certain you have that much CO2 in your tank? Test kits can be a little off... perhaps it would be a good idea to slowly turn up the CO2 until the fish react and then turn it down a little for safety. Otherwise try a drop checker (Aquatic Plant Central has directions) to make sure other things in your tank water are not affecting the CO2 results. How do you diffuse your CO2?

I am measuring it going in with bubble counters. I have a diffuser directly below the intake on my fluval 205. I also am calculating the amount by checking the ph and kh. That usually gives an accurate reading. I have a chart that gives the ppm of CO2 at certain ph and kh.

I think lowering your photoperiod is a great start. Also, double check to make sure you are appropriately dosing micro and macros. It sounds like you are doing things right, but just to be safe.

Hopefully, this is a "new tank" sort of problem, and the plants will kick into gear and this issue will fade.

I'm hoping the same thing. Keep hoping it will "pop". That is what we used to call it in the old days when a new tank matured so the bacteria and algae blooms subsided.

Be sure to get as much of it out of the tank as you can. It seems just when maximum frustration kicks in, and you're ready to give up, the algae will fade... so have faith. YOU CAN DO IT

Thanks for the encouragement?

I've got a diatom filter that I have loaned to a friend. He is going to return it to me tommorrow. I'm going to run it for 24-48 hrs. Hopefully, that will help.

I have heard that a toothbrush works well for collecting the strands of algae.

I've tried all sorts of things to get it off, including a hair brush, that treats the symptom, but it comes back by the next evening.