filtration

doox00

AC Members
Nov 27, 2006
45
0
0
Hello all, I currently have a 90g with 30g sump reef tank and I would like to setup a medium sized freshwater tank with mainly live plants and inverts. What is the recommended type of filtration for biological/mechanical these days to use?

I have not had a freshwater tank setup in about 10 years, back then I used under gravel filters and back filters for biological and mechanical filtration. This still the same today for freshwater or is there a better alternative? Also would a PC or T5 fixture be sufficient for the plants?

thanks
 
I would stay away from the ugf. You can use a canister filter or an HOB aquaclear type.

Red
 
You can convert your sump tank into a wet/dry filter, good for a low to moderately lit planted tank that doesn't require CO2 injection.

You can invest in a canister filter, which I prefer because canister filters are usually much quieter than other filters.

You can also use 2 HOB filters, mainly for redundancy and providing enough flow. Like the wet/dry filter, it's more ideal for a low to moderately lit tank with no CO2.

Not a proponent to undergravel filters because I don't see any benefits in using them over the above choices.

PC or T5 are the popular choices for the planted tank, the important thing is to provide enough wattage and that will be determined by your plant choice.
 
Reddog80p said:
I would stay away from the ugf. You can use a canister filter or an HOB aquaclear type.

Red

I have an aquaclear 110 laying around I use on my quarantine tank from time to time, would this be to much for a 30ish gallon tank? I may do a drilled tank also so I can setup a sump in the stand to hide all equipment.

What are some recommended easy to clean canisters? I think I would prefer a canister if I end up not using a sump
 
I've gone to canister filters on the new tanks here for neatness and evaporation issues. I think the wet/dry is 'better' and you get more out of the media per litre... Anyway, I just got oversized canisters and they work well, 7.2 litres capacity for the 220lt tanks with 1.8 lt each of filter matting, ceramic rings, open cell-pore type media and bioballs.

I had ugf in the past, but canisters (and wet/dry) are much less hassle and seem to generally work better.

HOB works as well, but some models are more problematic than others. I use cheap Chinese canisters (aqua-one-like) with baskets that are easy to clean and use. There are better ones available.
 
doox00 said:
I have an aquaclear 110 laying around I use on my quarantine tank from time to time, would this be to much for a 30ish gallon tank? I may do a drilled tank also so I can setup a sump in the stand to hide all equipment.

What are some recommended easy to clean canisters? I think I would prefer a canister if I end up not using a sump

An aquaclear 110 is the old 500 right? If it is that would be fine. Overfiltering won't hurt. If you want to go the canister route I think Eheim or Fluval is the route to go. Here's a post about a few canisters...

http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85898

Red
 
how about flow in the tank? add a powerhead or two or the backfilter/canister filter all the flow you need?
 
I'd recommend you set the tank up and check the flow..you may want to eliminate 'dead' spots in the tank.

also consider the species you want to keep.

have you decided to go cannister?

I have a 75 with sump..it is a nitrate factory but the tank is planted..I just added pressurized CO2 so I will bump the plants and add ferts in this tank.

even so I monitor the nitrates and they stay at just around 20..which is the upper end of a planted tank.my sump is a closed sump so it does not suffer much CO2 loss the CO 2 would normally off gas in the sump..but since it can't leave the sump the aggitartion of the bioballs seem to act like a reactor re mixing the CO2..
 
I'd add a powerhead to eliminate any dead spots. If you wanted to go with the Aquaclear HOB and a powerhead or a canister filter and a powerhead I think you'd be set.

Red
 
AquariaCentral.com