Fin Rot, Gill Damage, and maybe dropsy??

sillypony

Fish+College=BROKE
Mar 27, 2008
267
0
0
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WNY
Hello!

I'm not sure if this is the place for this... but I've posted on two other forums and gotten little or no help, and I don't entirely trust my LFS. Soooo I'm trying again.

Here's the story...

Background Info

55 gallon, freshwater. Set up since September. Housed 12 danios, 12 neon tetras, 3 queen loaches, 3 cory catfish, 2 plecos (L75 and L264) and a bunch of trumpet snails from another tank.

Nitrites and Ammonia have been 0, for nearly as long as it has been up. Nitrates are ALWAYS 30 or less, and the vast majority of the time 20 or less. Ph is 7.6 and KH has always been 4*dKH (or 71.6 ppm?). GH is about 7*dGH (plus or minus a point) (or 125.3 ppm?). I use "aquarium pharmaceuticals" brand tests, they all are the test tube and drops of chemicals variety. I do 25-75% water changes every week. I usually have to pull out the rocks and drift wood to get all the waste- which is why the changes are so big.

I feed a general flake (tetramin tropical flakes), shrimp pellets (wardley brand, 4-7 pieces morning and night), and algae wafers (wardley brand again, 2 wafers broken in half morning and night). Occassionally, frozen blood worms or brine shrimp. Recently (like last week) I started feeding peas on occassion. Other than that, I have not found a fresh veggie they will eat.

It has sand substrate, and some live plants. Plenty of caves, and a decent amount of drift wood. Light about 12hrs/day. HOB filter and 2 sponge filters. Generic submerged heater.

I dorm at college during the week, so I premeasure their food in a daily pill box thing, and my bro or grandma feed and turn lights on and off. I come home on the weekends to do water changes, etc.


The symptoms

The cory cats are the most recent addition to my tank. I bought them to live with the Betta, but he hated them, so I had to move them to the 55, in december (i believe). In january, the smallest one died. It never grew, and was about half the size of the others. It also had a scar on its back, that I hadn't noticed when I bought it. It lost the ability to swim properly, became lethargic, and passed away.

Also in january I moved into the dorms at college, and had to leave daily feeding to my brother and grandmother. However, I still personally performed weekly waterchanges.

Shortly after this, I lost one danio every other week or so. The first two I found dead upon coming home for the weekend. I couldn't tell what had killed them. The last one got dropsy pineconing, swelling, etc. I quarantined it, and it died a few days later. That was just a few weeks ago.

Just after that, I had to get melafix for a different tank, and did a half dose for three days, in hopes that would help as a preventative.

Now, ALL 9 danios have fin deterioration and tearing. This appeared last weekend. Monday (when I came home from my b/fs and saw it), I quarantined them, and started treating with marocyn 1 AND 2. I moved the tetras in the quarantine as well. Temp is at 80 degrees, tank is 20 gallons. I can't remember if i added salt, i know i meant to. I may do a water change tomorrow so as to add salt without risking double-dosing.

Yesterday, i get home from school and there is NO improvement. Furthermore, their gills look... damaged. Scales are missing, and several of the danios have heavy, red discoloration- as if there is sever bruising behind the gill cover, or someone took a tiny hammer to the side of their head... I will get pictures friday (my b/f is coming and will lend me his- i can't capture danios with mine, they move to fast)

The tetras are hard to examine. They're so small. I have lost three of them (and the bodies were eaten, because when I come home from school, they're just gone...) So i put them in with the danios, in hopes that by quarantining all of them I could prevent spread to the cats and loaches. I noticed this afternoon that they are swimming at an angle (their body is not straight up and down, but twisted on the diagonal- halfway between normal and on their side) My brother observed "they're all tipped 30* to their left."

One thing that has come to my attention as possibly relevant is the danios are pigs. They eat the flake, and then go down and eat whatever shrimp pellet they can find. Right now i'm watching a zebra danio sift through the waste at the bottom of the tank, looking for food. I have repeatedly dropped the amount of flake fed, but can't keep them from eating the pellets without starving the bottom feeders.

I don't think any of them are OBESE, but about half have always had a chubby belly. However, since the other half eat the same and are streamlined, I surmised that the 'fat' ones are girls, the 'skinny' ones boys. Also- the 'fat' ones are the ones who have not yet died. I have lost almost exclusively the 'skinny'/boy danios. (the 'fat' danios look something like this fish- http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...hiei/amuro.jpg )

They all still eat very eagerly, they play and swim.

This morning, I've noticed that the danio's bellies are more swollen than normal, and some appear to have irregularities in their ventral body line- an extra bend or lump in the line. But maybe this is just me looking too hard and too long trying to find symptoms that make sense...

My huge confusion is mainly because everyone says if your water quality is fine, fish are healthy. But all my tests come out perfect. The ph is a little high, but I left it because I'd rather a stabl high ph than a fluctuating one. Is there a water quality test I'm not doing/not aware of???

Other than trying to save my schooling fish, I am also very concerned about spread to my bottom feeders. Especially since the plecs are so sedentary, that any symptoms would be noticed rather late in the development of the disease....


So.. help. please.

LeeAnna

Ps... pics to come tomorrow evening, my b/f is bringing his new camera which can capture this fast moving fish way better than my cell phone camera.
 
at last, a pic! Click for a bigger image.

So there is one pic. I have more, i just need to sort through them, and wanted to get one up asap. That is one of the blue danios with the biggest tummy. You can kinda see the gill damage. And I'm curious- is that top-line normal?

So, more pics as soon as I sort out the good ones.
 
Might be a silly question, but have you been testing the quarantine water parameters? The gill damage sounds like it could be ammonia poisoning. This of course wouldn't explain the problems that started before the QT. I would just keep doing the maracyn treatments and make sure you keep the QT water perfect (which might require more frequent water changes)

My huge confusion is mainly because everyone says if your water quality is fine, fish are healthy. But all my tests come out perfect. The ph is a little high, but I left it because I'd rather a stabl high ph than a fluctuating one. Is there a water quality test I'm not doing/not aware of???

Good water quality just makes it less likely that problems will arise and make it easier for fish to overcome illness if it occurs. Something like finrot or dropsy can be caused by stuff other than dirty water. You might try feeding pieces of cooked pea to the bloated fish, in case it is just constipation. Otherwise, I think maracyn I or II might deal with some bacteria that can cause dropsy (from what I've read there are a number of different bacteria that can cause it).
 
I'm not sure if this is the place for this... but I've posted on two other forums and gotten little or no help, and I don't entirely trust my LFS. Soooo I'm trying again.
Let's see if we can't help (AC is the best site BTW :D)

I do 25-75% water changes every week. I usually have to pull out the rocks and drift wood to get all the waste- which is why the changes are so big.
Sounds normal to me - (I do 50+% every 6-8 days)

Other than that, I have not found a fresh veggie they will eat.
Sometimes this can be difficult, but by not feeding them (I wait 3 days), and then introducing a blanched veggie, they will certainly go after it. It may take doing this 2-3 times, but then they're trained ;)

Okay as for the rest:

3 Corys all the same Spp.?

What conditions; size, heated/non, filtered, non, etc. is the betta tank?

The symptoms you described could be a meriad of ailmnents, but for Corys it is common if they were placed in an uncycled tank, or poorly acclimated. Another common cause is poor nutrition (but this doesn't sound like the issue). You mentioned treatments? Corys are very sensitive to high doses... Lastly, they don't do well in a stressful (hurassed) environment.

...last one got dropsy pineconing, swelling, etc. I quarantined it, and it died a few days later.
Which was it? Dropsy, swelling, etc.? Or not sure?

Also, what is your QT? If uncycled, and you are not home all week, this could explain a LOT!

ALL 9 danios have fin deterioration and tearing.
A sure sign of either poor water conditions or hurassment, but oftentimes both.

Furthermore, their gills look... damaged. Scales are missing, and several of the danios have heavy, red discoloration- as if there is sever bruising behind the gill cover, or someone took a tiny hammer to the side of their head...
I would bet my pay check it's ammonia or nitrIte poisoning! You water tests don't show anything!?! Is it expired? Again, are these in the QT, and if so, is it cycled. Even if it was, by adding all of these fish it could easily have caused a spike...

I noticed this afternoon that they are swimming at an angle (their body is not straight up and down, but twisted on the diagonal- halfway between normal and on their side) My brother observed "they're all tipped 30* to their left."
It's been a long post, but when did you say you added the neons?
 
what are you using for conditioner? it might be hurting your results for amm. also water changes howmany how much? do them often whether or not you have trouble..
 
Loads of useful information already. The water in the q tank might be a major factor. It does sound as if the problems are caused by water quality problems.

You mention the amount you have to feed to make sure the bottomdwellers get some food. Do you put the pellets in the tank when the lights are out? If you do that the other fish do not seem to go after them as much.

I would also cut down on the amount you are feeding to prevent a build up of waste and the risk of deteriorating water quality. It saves a build up of mess on the substrate too.
 
When I set up a quarantine tank, I move one of the two sponge filters from the big tank, into the new tank. So plenty of bacteria there. I'll check the water parameters though.


Dixienut-
Water conditioner is "instant dechlor" it's what my lfs uses, and is less expensive than others. (info here- http://www.wecoaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium%20Products.htm ) As stated in the post, i do water changes every week, and they are 25-75% of the tank. Usually around 50%.

CT-death:
The questions about the cories:
They are all skunk (i believe PCF calls them banded?) cories. The betta tank has a heater, and a sponge filter (again, started from the big tank). They were only there a week or so. I don't like stressing the Betta.
All treatments were very recent- long after I lost the little cory. I only mention the little one because I wonder if it had something which it then spread to the tank. (i quarantined but apparently not well enough)

The last danio-
It had pine coning, and swelling of the abdomen, which i was told means dropsy.

The fin deterioration started in the 55g tank, which reads my water parameters as FINE. If it is from harassment, they are doing it to themselves. The bottom feeders don't bother them, and the tetras stick to themselves. Also- there is a white edge on the dorsal fins of the long fins, which I read also means finrot. Thus I assumed it was an infection, rather than harrassment.

The neons- I didn't. I'm sorry. They are from... early november? I put them in the 10 gallon when the Betta was in the 55. But after I put the background on the tank, he stressed out (kept trying to scare his reflection away) and wouldn't settle down. So after a few days of flaring, i switched them.


Montysmum-
as long as there is ANY light in the room, the danios keep feeding. So while I do turn the lights out very shortly after dinner, the danios remain rather active.
I'm not entirely certain what is the proper amount of pellet for the tank. There are tons of trumpet snails and the 3 loaches and 2 cats and 2 plecs all eating mainly the shrimp pellet and none of them like to share (thats why I have to break all the algae wafers in half- the loaches love them and the plecs eat em occassionally, but they guard anything they like to guard their left overs)

I'm doing water changes this morning, so i'll get back to you about the q. tank water parameters then.

LeeAnna

ps.. no one has mentioned what I can/should do to make sure my bottom feeders stay healthy?
 
I'm very interested to get those water results, but as to your Q;

Corys enjoy friends (3 is a minimum, 4 or more is encouraged). The are very susceptable to poor water (and uncleaned gravel conditions), but the main tank sounds good. They are also skitish and really enjoy lots of cover (caves, logs, plants, decorations, etc.) Lastly is diet.

I too always break up my wafers, but remember most bottom dwellers are quite active at night (especially Plecos). The loaches and Corys not as much, but they will come out to feed if hungry. Like you I have very aggressive feeders in my tank, and getting sinking foods down to all of my corys was a challenge, but I feed my pellets and wafers 2 ways:
1) I add floating flakes first to one side of the tank (filter off to keep them to one area dn floating) and place the sinking foods on the other end while they are distracted - works fairly well.
2) I wait until bed time and drop in 1 pellet, or a 1/3 wafer, per cory (if the above doesn't work) when all of the lights are out (including the room's)

Works for me, but remember they don't need fed every day. In fact, although many will offer their own opinions, I feed my tanks every other day, and occasionally will go 2 days without feeding. Bu
 
ct death- those are awesome feeding directions, thank you.

I know they need 3+ in a group, i just havent been able to get anymore yet. They need to be the same species, don't they? And there is lots of cover.. I'll post a pic. a complicated rock cave, a big piece of drift wood and a little drift wood cave. I would like to get some more rocks this summer once the snow melts. (although i don't look forward to dragging even more stuff out of the tank every week for water changes)

I tested the q. tank and it did have some ammonia (.25ish? the api colors are so vague...). I don't know why I didn't think of that, I just assumed sponge filter has bacteria, bacteria take care of ammonia. I took out all but the bottom 2 inches of water and replaced it. I'll do the same tonight and/or tomorrow, depending on what the test readings are tonight.

What do I need to do to keep the bottom feeders healthy? Is there a preventative i can/should give them? Or should I just keep doing the same as normal and keep my fingers crossed?


I have a school thing this afternoon, but this evening i will DEFINITELy get up more pics. I have one in particular I want to get up- it looks like my long fin danios have whiskers hanging down by their mouths (in the same spot that sea lions have tusks...) and I'm wondering if its normal or worms or tissue or.... i don't know.

Thanks so much for all your help!

LeeAnna
 
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heres some pics ... click for bigger images


I'm wondering about those whiskery things...



I'm ondering if the blackening on the tetras is something??


LeeAnna
 
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