Fire belly newts..?

That eastern newt looks a bit more aquatic than the fire bellies...probably spends more time in the water.

I have never seen one of those turtle things...looks cool....but for the firebellies, because they spend so much time on land, I think something larger with more room to wander is better for them. If those eastern newts spend more time in the water and only need to get out once in awhile...that turtle deck would be GREAT ! :D

WW...my plants are doing GREAT ! They seem to like it fine. The Echo-Complete has lots of nutrients in it for the plants, and they've rooted themselves in there rather well it seems. But I imagine at some time I will have to add a bit of ferts from time to time. I imagine I will know when that time comes when the plants themselves tell me...lol...
 
Cool.

I plan on haveing only a 17000 K, 15 watt bulb over my ten gallon. Will this be enough to grow a few terrestial plants? For aquatic plants, 1.5 wpg would grow only some hardy java fern. Do terrestial plants make a demand for light as aquatic plants do? What if I don't even use a light?

Also, I read a lot on the internet about fire-bellied newts, and all of the sites say to keep the temperature below 70 degrees and that they will not eat or be healthy if it is much higher than 70 (like high 70's or 80's). Is it cool where you live, emg? Or does the temperature for you doesn't really affect your newts?
 
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I think for planted tanks a 6700K rating is fine. I'm not sure about the wattage requirement in terreriums/viveriums, but seeing as how the light doesn't have to go through water... I'm thinking that a couple of watts per gallon should be fine...but, I'm not sure about that.

There are 10,000K 10 watt compact flourescent bulbs that you can screw into incandescent fixtures. If you had an incandescent striplight or hood you could get two of those bulbs and have 20watts over your tank, which should be more than enough. I have even seen those bulbs up to 20 watts...but those are a bit more expensive. I get the 10watt ones in the fish dept. at walmart for about 4-6$ each. A pretty good bargain because when I see them at LFSs they want over 10$ for them. If your room is well lit, maybe you could get away without a light, but if there isn't enough light for the plants, they become tall and lanky looking for the light they need. To keep your plants low and compact it's important to have enough lighting.

My newts seem fine. The temp in my house is 70 in winter...and can get pretty warm in the summer, we don't have air conditioning...so I guess I'll have to wait and see how they fair this summer. Only thing I could do is put them down in the basement....
 
WinterWind said:
Can you compare eastern newts and fire-bellied newts (chinese)? Are the eastern spotted newts larger than the fire-bellied? Are they more active? And what do they eat, how easily do they take food? Thanks.

I think I might have seen some eastern newts at the LFS.



Firebelly info.
There are some differences in the size and appearance of the two newts. C. Pyrrhogaster (Japanese fire bellied newt) averages about 3.5 to 5 inches (9-12 cm), although there have been reports of them reaching 6 inches (15 cm).This newt has a rough or bumpy appearance to the skin, and generally the pattern of the red/orange coloration on the belly is speckled. C. orientalis is a bit smaller at 3-4 inches (6-10 cm), and the skin appears smoother. The orange pattern on the belly tends to be more blotchy, with orange sometimes the predominant color on the belly. The only real impact of these differences is that the larger Japanese fire bellied newt needs a little more room and can handle a bit larger prey.


Housing

Housing for fire bellied newts is not difficult to provide, but a few things should be kept in mind. In the wild these newts are largely aquatic, but they should be provided with a land area which they can climb out on to rest and bask (the occasional odd fire bellied newt will spend a fair amount of time on land). And while they don't need a huge tank, keep in mind that the larger the volume of water they live in, the less chance of toxic waste products building up to a harmful level.

For a few newts (3-4), a 20 gallon tank should be sufficient. The land area can be provided by sloping gravel up to one end of the tank, or sectioning off a land area with Plexiglas set in place with aquarium grade silicone. Rocks, moss, and pieces of bark can be used to make a land area with hiding places if desired.
However, for the majority of newts, a floating island of wood or rocks (which should be fairly smooth to prevent damaging delicate skin on newt bellies) is sufficient for a land area.

The bottom of the tank can be lined with smooth gravel, which should be large enough that the newts can not swallow it. Provide lots of plants (the live ones are nicer than plastic and easy to care for, although a fluorescent light fixture with a plant bulb should be provided).

Filtration should be provided, although strong currents are best avoided. Inside corner filters (the kind powered by air) work well, as they create little current. Internal power filters are also a good choice, as long as they are not too powerful and positioned so as to minimize the current produced. Under gravel filters are also a good option.

Fire bellied newts do best at temperatures on the cool side - they tolerate room temperature (70 F/21 C) but will be happier at slightly lower temperatures - 68 F (20 C) or a bit lower are more ideal. At temperatures around 75 F (24 C) or higher, they will be stressed and susceptible to infections, particularly fungal infections. Keeping a tank in the basement is a good way to maintain lower temperatures. Unless you have air conditioning, keeping the tank cool enough may be more of a concern than providing heat. In hot weather, placing a fan over the tank, or letting ice (made with dechlorinated water, of course) drip into the tank may be an option if your house temperature is too high for the newts.

Approximately 1/3 of the volume of water in the tank should be removed and replaced with fresh, dechlorinated water every 1-2 weeks (depending on the size of the tank and the number of newts - it should be done more often for smaller tanks and larger numbers of newts). A gravel washer is an inexpensive tool available at pet stores that allows the gravel to be gently agitated and cleaned while siphoning off water.

Newts should be kept on a light/dark cycle that is regular. 12 hours light/12 hours dark is probably sufficient if you are providing light, or simply allow them normal daylight in a well lit room - as long as their tank isn't in direct sunlight. Newts do not have any requirement for special UV light fixtures, but a low watt fluorescent fixture can be used if you have live plants in the tank. Just make sure the newts have a shaded or sheltered area available in the tank. For more on tank set ups and water quality issues, see my article on Salamander Housing.

Feeding

Depending on your newt, you may have to try a variety of food sources. Bloodworms, frozen or live, seem to a favorite among newt keepers. These (especially the frozen bloodworms) are quite readily available at pet stores. They may also eat earthworms (chopped), brine shrimp, glass shrimp, daphnia, and freeze-dried tubifex cubes. Floating reptile/amphibian sticks such as Repto-Min can also be fed, although many newts refuse them. Larger newts, particularly the larger Japanese fire bellied newt, may also eat feeder guppies if offered.

Fire bellied newts do not have to be fed every day - every other day or every three days is often enough. It may take a little experimentation to figure out how much and how often they should be fed, but you can try to judge by their growth and body condition (fat or skinny) and whether excess food is being left (which will cause toxins to build up in the tank).

These newts are nice for people new to amphibians as pet because they are readily available, and don't require a lot of specialized care.
 
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More info.. :D on newt care.
Temperatures, Lighting, and Cleaning the Tank

Temperature

Most salamanders from temperate climates are best kept at fairly low temperatures of 50-70 F so heating is not a concern unless keeping sub tropical or tropical species. Often a basement is a good place to keep salamanders.

For some species, cooling may be necessary. Long term cooling can be difficult (some people rig up methods of running cool water through the tank), and it is probably best to simple try to set up tanks where the ambient temperature remains cool enough to keep the tanks cool. Air conditioning the room the tanks are in can be used if necessary. For short term cooling, you can do frequent 20-25% water changes with slightly cooler water, float small bottles of ice water in the tank or even make ice cubes out of treated (dechlorinated) water to add to the tank as necessary in hot weather.

If supplemental heat is necessary, a submersible heater can be used in the aquatic tanks. Other heating methods such as incandescent lighting, under tank heaters or other commercial heaters should be used with caution since they can be too drying for amphibians.

Light
If tanks are kept in the basement, it is best to keep them near a window so that natural seasonal light cycles are maintained. This level of light is fine for most species. If live plants are used in the tank, though, a full spectrum light source is needed for the plants, and it is best to approximate the natural light cycles for that particular salamander. A low wattage flourescent light is preferred if a light is needed since most salalmanders and newts prefer darker conditions (and the lights should only be on a maximum of 10-12 hours per day) and lights can be drying.

Cleaning
Cleaning is important, but it is necessary to remember the sensitivity of salamanders (and other amphibians) to chemicals in the environment. Unless there is a health problem, simple hot water can be used to clean aquariums and items in the aquariums. Letting tanks and furnishings dry in the sun is also helpful. New items should be carefully inspected for pests or decaying material, cleaned and dried before adding to the cage. Rocks and other non porous items can be soaked in bleach solution and very thoroughly rinsed. Commercial disinfectants should usually be avoided, as it can be difficult to rinse all the residue and it takes very little exposure to some chemicals to serious harm or kill a salamander. They should particularly be avoided for porous materials like wood, as any residues can leach out over time and kill the salamander.
 
whew..
Ok, now the Eastern Newt has a very terrestrial stage in life calld the red eft.
redeft1.jpg

So they would need a damp but not aquatic environment, very similar to salamanders. But those guys are so cool looking.

Here is some info on them.
notovir.jpg


The Eastern Newt (and its close relative the Striped Newt, N. perstriatus) are unique in that they undergo two metamorphoses. The first is the usual transformation from aquatic, gilled larva to an air-breathing terrestrial form. However in these two species there is a second, less striking metamorphosis to a breeding aquatic adult. The sexually immature land phase is usually called an Eft (left, top and middle, and below) while the aquatic adults are called Newts (bottom left).
redspot2.jpg

The Eastern Newt is divided into four subspecies. The photos shown here are all of the Red-spotted Newt, N. v. viridescens. Adults reach lengths of nearly 5 inches, while Efts usually reach only about 3 inches. The Red-Spotted Newt gets its name from the many red spots that occur on its dorsal surface against the background color of brown to olive green in adults.
The Eft stage may last anywhere from 1-7 years. Sometimes the eft stage is skipped completely and they go directly from the larval to the adult aquatic stage. This is particularly common in the southern subspecies, the Central Newt, N. v. louisianensis, and the Peninsula Newt, N. v. piaropicola, and in populations that live in xeric (dry) environments such as the pine barrens and sand hills found in the eastern coastal plain. The skin of the Eft is toxic and their bright coloration serves as a warning - it is not so rare to find an Eft wandering about in broad daylight after rain. When Efts transform into adults the red background color changes to olive green or brown, but the red spots remain. They also develop a more compressed tail that helps them swim in the aquatic environment into which they move. There are three other subspecies of the Eastern Newt found east of the Great Plains from the southern reaches of central Canada south to Florida and the east coast: the Broken-striped Newt, N. v. dorsalis, the Central Newt, N. v. louisianensis, and the Peninsula Newt, N. v. piaropicola.
 
Good info, trickster!

Emg, would you happen to know the names of the plants in your set up? I'm not sure which plants to use.
 
Lol..I don't know...use whatever you see that appeals to you. Ferns and moss are always nice in terreriums. I imagine anything that likes moist damp settings would be fine. ;)

For the moss I just went out in my yard and pulled some up...very economical.. :D
 
Emg, I was reading about newts on the web, and it said that newts usually go through an "eft" stage when they are largely terrestrial. Usually right after they finish metamorphises , they will spend most all of their time on land. This stage last for about a year, and they will become aquatic. Maybe your newt is now in the eft stage and when it grows older and matures, it will be mostly aquatic.

Just some info if you didn't know before.
 
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