Fish keep dying

[OnyxFishies]

What are some problems that a fish not eating for a day or two would be one of the first signs of?

Too be honest, a fish not eating for a day or two could be a sign of just about any problem a fish could have. Most fish will eat until the food is gone; they don't get hungry/full the same way we do. Some fish don't eat all that much (that you can see, at least) For example, I've got a weather loach that hides most of the time, so I don't see him eating very often. But, where you said your fish started of eating vigorously, then stopped eating, you most likely have a problem.

In general, unless the fishes' problem is obvious, (IE, bleeding, torn fins, white specks all over em ect..) it can be really hard to tell what is wrong with them. For this reason, we here at the forums always ask for test kit results on your tank, how long it has been set up with fish in it, ect. Particularly Ammonia, (NH3) NitrAtes (NO3) and NitrItes (NO2). The others you see talked about are less important. (pH, for example is not too critical for most fish, as long as it doesn't change much.)

About the "Aquasafe" stuff you refered to: I'm not familliar with the product, I would assume it is a chemical you add to the water to remove Chlorine and ChlorAMines. If you have municipal water (IE: unless you have a well) Then you should use it as the package says to. If you are SURE you only have chlorine in your water supply, and are sure you DON'T have chloramines, (most people do, unfortunately for the fish) You can get away with not using the Chlorine remover if you let your water sit in a clean plastic bucket for a day or two. Chlorine will dissapate from the water on its own. Chloramines, on the other hand, will not go away. (at least not quick enough to do us fish keepers any good) You could ask whoever supplies your water if they put chloramines in it.

 

[happychem]

Slick Rick?

Alright. Even without the tests I'm going to jump to the conclusion that your tank isn't cycled.

For test kits both Aquarium Pharmaceuticals and Hagen/Nutrafin make good reasonably priced kits. You need the following: pH, KH, NH3, NO2, NO3. Anything else is window dressing, there are times when the other kits can come in useful, but for general aquarium care these are what you'll need. Until you get specialized and have a need for other kits, don't worry about them, but hey, if they come included, bonus.

Next, call or e-mail your local water company. Ask them for the annual water quality assessment. This will tell you what type of conditions you can expect from your tap: pH, alkalinity (KH), and other water chemistry parameters. If you need help understanding certain aspects of it feel free to pm me or just post a thread.

Also, ask them if they use chloramines in their water treatment or just chlorine. This will detemine the dechlorinator best suited to your needs. If they use chloramines, invest in a good quality dechlorinator than also sequesters ammonia, like Prime or Amquel. If they only use chlorine, just buy the cheapest dechlorinator you can find. Try to steer clear of dechlorinators that include things like aloe vera and calamine in the mix. While these compounds have their benefits for specific ailments, there're no benefits in providin them on a regular basis, but they are more expensive...

Shameless self-plug: If you're feeling brave and have lots of coffee on hand ( ) have a read through the article I wrote on water chemistry in the "Articles" section:
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35281

While your tank is still cycling, expect to do daily 50% water changes to keep ammonia and nitrite levels down. You may or may not lose the tetras. They can be touchy and the "painting", injecting dye, can (not necessarily "does") weaken them.

edit: lose the "Easy Balance" stuff. It's junk, or at least claims to do stuff that isn't possible

 

[Holly9937]

Also, I would not get anymore fish until you get the test kits and know that the tank is cycled. Cycling is very stressful on fish and you may very well lose some more during the process. Just stick with what you have for now. And do a little research before you buy your next fish . clown loaches get well over a foot long and should not be kept in a 10g tank!!! The LFS might tell you otherwise, but they are just trying to make a sale if they do. There are plenty of neat fish that would live happily in a 10g tank. And once you get your test results you will want to do enough water changes to get the nitrite and amonia at 0 or very close to 0. This may take a water change of 50% or more. You will probably want to to at least this much DAILY anyhow, because it does sound like the tank is still cycling. You can get a master test kit for pretty cheap from www.bigalsonline.com look under test kits And yes you want to use dechlorinator everytime you do a water change or you will quickly have fish belly up :sad:

 

[Doug E. Fresh]

I figured I wasnt' finished cycling yet. Wow, I had no idea that Clown Loaches got that big. I read on some website that they were recommended for 30G minimum but that same website listed nearly every fish available for 20G and up. It's OK I didn't really like the Clown Loaches anyway. There were always hiding at the bottom. I dont' really like bottom feeders.

So, I guess I should try changing the water every couple of days (about 15%) and getting a test kit.

Another quick question, I am starting to see algae on the plants and old food in the gravels. If I vacuum the gravel do I need to take the fish and plants out?

You guys don't take your fish out just to do a water change right?

Also, when I can get some more fish, what do you guys suggest to accompany the two painted tetras?

 

[Kasakato]

You still need to change the water more. 30-50% every day.

You should not have old food in the tank. The fish should eat it all at once. Old food will rot, and give you ammoina, and other problems like that.

You need to leave the fish and plants in the tank, all the should come out is water and dirt.

 

[Holly9937]

its easiest to just do a gravel vac everytime you change the water (maybe not necessarily until your tank finishes cycling, as kas said you will want to be changing at least 25-50% daily). You should only feed your fish what they will eat within a minute or two. If any food is sinking to the bottom you are overfeeding

 

[happychem]

Feed your fish what they will eat in 30 seconds, no more.

For now, while you're cycling, just feed them every other day. They'll be fine and less food means less ammonia, so it makes your job of keeping ammonia down (below 0.25ppm) easier and it makes the surviving easier.

Change water up to 50% twice daily if that is what it takes to get NH3 below 0.25ppm.

Yes, some company for the tetras is a good idea, but wait until you've had a week of 0ppm ammonia and 0ppm nitrite - in other words, a cycled tank. Once the tank is cycled small additions of fish shouldn't result in a noticeable spike in NH3 or NO2, the bacterial colony should grow fast enough.

For company think of maybe a couple more tetras - they're a schooling fish - and maybe a few bottom feeders like pigmy corydoras. Add no more than a couple fish at a time, it's just a 10g tank after all, that means that there's not a great deal of water to dilute the new additions.

 

[Doug E. Fresh]

Is it not difficult to vacuum the rocks without taking the fish and plants out and messing up the whole set up of the Aquarium?

Also, what about Mollys in the future. Would that be an acceptable tank mate for the tetras?

 

[happychem]

Is it not difficult to vacuum the rocks without taking the fish and plants out and messing up the whole set up of the Aquarium?

Also, what about Mollys in the future. Would that be an acceptable tank mate for the tetras?

Not really. Just use a gravel vac to syphon out the water and dirt from the substrate while you're changing the water. If you keen about half the water in the tank it won't stress the fish much.

Mollies would be a fine tank mate. The only problem is that if you were to shore up the tetra school and have a few cories in there your tank is getting close to fully stocked. It's just my opinion, but I think that you'll have better results with just a couple of species.

 

[iamgroovy]

Gourami in new tank

I never Pre cycled the tank before fish. However, the tank has been up for about two months. It is a ten gallon tank. With colored gravel in the bottom(I know major sin) and 3 or 4 plastic plants. Originally I had a Dwarf Gourami by himself for about 3 weeks then I added two clown loaches. About 2 weeks later the Gourami died. I changed about 50% of the water. Everything seemed fine. About two days later I added two painted tetras. About 2 weeks later the Clown Loaches Began swimming funny. Then they they had what I thought was ICK. I don't know though. It was like scaly stuff all over their body. It looked like they were losing skin. They also started kinda floating around the tank and what not. I put some of those ICK and Parasite fizz discs in the tank but it was too late they were suffering and I euthanized them. Everything seemed fine with the tetras until now.

Oh, yes I also have a pretty good "waterfall style" filter and a bubbles stone, so I feel that the tank is pretty well aerated.

I have two painted tetras a green one and a pinkish one. I have noticed that the green one is still eating well. The pink does not want to eat. Also, sometimes when the pink one comes around the food the green one chases it around. I'm wondering it is some kind of aggression problem. Also, if there is nothing wrong with the tank levels, when can I add more fish and how many?

Thanks

I'm surprised no one has commented on the Gourami in a brand new tank. To my understanding, a Gourami shouldn't be added to a new uncycled tank....But then I'm rather new to all this myself (but have spent many many hours reading before I ever got my first fish!) My advice, research, reasearch, research. These are living beings we are taking responsibilty for and we need to be the best (and most knowledgable) caregivers we can be! I currently have 2 dwarf Gouramis (male powder blue and a female) along with a few corys and otos in a 20 gal. They must be doing ok as the male Gourami has been busy building a bubble nest and enticing the female! Best of luck to you! :read: