Fluorescent Wiring Question

[GulfCstAquarian]

These are 19w bulbs, and just three of them would light a 20 gallon well.

You're taking some serious risks with just randomly wiring your setup in various configurations. I hope you're at least wearing eye protection. If you find a combination that works, like the last one. Then you can experiment and leave it running for an hour in a safe area (outdoors, in the basement) but closely monitored the whole time. If the bulbs or the ballast get too hot to touch for more than a second, then you can't run them in that configuration.

The package for the CF bulbs says they are 6500K on the back...

 

[Gumby7]

There is a fillament similar to a incandecent bulb at each end of the bulb. Depending on the bulb start type this needs to be energized by a specific current for a specific duration in order for the bulb plasma to strike an arc properly. Otherwise you get the snakes as you describe them. (Most magnetic ballasts designed for two bulbs don't work right with one bulb either)

Ballasts come in three different start types: preheat, rapid-start and instant-start. There may be some backward compatiblity with some ballasts but it is always best to select the bulb AND ballast as a combination. That's what the manufacturers say. This will prolong the bulb life too.

There is also magnetic vs electronic ballast designs. Generally the electronic versions are far more energy efficient and often "drive" the bulbs closer to 100% (typically 90% vs 70% for magnetic).

I've posted before about this but in a nut shell if the bulb manufacturer's site says "2000 design lumens" you will only get 70% of that with a normal magnetic ballast.

Instant start don't heat the cathodes (at least the electronic ballasted fixtures I've seen gang both pins to one (1) wire. You can't do this with preheat or rapid start!

Follow the wiring diagram exactly. Its not worth burning down the house to get a few more lumens.

Also, I can't recommend separating the ballast from the fixture and using exposed wire nuts in a DIY wet location. This is not only unsafe it is likely in violation of the wiring code. (To test this try asking your commercial fluorescent fixture supply house what wire to use for your exposed harness. They will probably tell you armored BX cable or the like. Then tell them its a wet location!).

The bulbs also work best if near a grounded sheet metal panel (i.e. the fixture). If you separate them you may get interference on your radio etc.

T8's rock. If you are doing it yourself (and those ballasts are fried) get a 4' shop light, a replacement electronic ballast and two T8 bulbs. Change the ballast and your in business.

Gumby