Fluval 304

bluetik

bluetik

AC Members
Dec 10, 2008
64
0
0
Sunny Florida
I have an opportunity to pick up a used Fluval 304. Will this be enough filter for my 46 gallon? I currently run 2 HOBs -- 1 @ 350 gph and one at 100 gph. So, the Fluval, at 260 gph will significantly reduce my filtering power? Or do you need less with a canister.

Anyway, it is $40 -- I've never used a canister filter before . . .any tips on what I should look for or questions I should ask before I buy? I want to eventually introduce a pressurized Co2 system, and I hear a canister is better for pressurized CO2.

Also, there is a Fluval 403 available nearby for $25. Would this be better / more powerful for my setup?
 
The 403 is smaller than the 304. I to have a used 304 that I got for free that I am in the process of getting running. 350 GPH is enough for 100 gallons. I am running the 304 and a AC50 on a 55 gallon.
 
I'm using a 304 on my 58 gallon (also bought used). One thing I found was that I could not for the life of me get the little pump-to-prime thing to work. I finally ended up twisting the intake tube up, putting a funnel in the end, and pouring water down it to prime it. Apart from that I've been very happy with it, it's quiet and runs well. I recommend skipping any charcoal in the canister (its needs replacing more often than I would want to dismantle the filter and isn't that useful anyways) and fill a basket up with bioballs or ceramic rings for the bacteria to grow on. I also don't have anything too crazy spongewise in the media baskets (I think my Rena filter came with something like 5 different sponge types?) because that's just ridiculous.
 
Thanks . . . are you sure?? I was under the impression that the 403 pushes 317 gph? I know I'm overfiltering now. I bought the filters with the intention of housing a couple goldfish in the 46 gallon, so I was reaching for 10X. How do you like the 304? Do you know how long I would have to run it alongside the HOBs to get the biological filtration started?
 
You could just pull the media out of the HOBs and put it in one of the baskets in the Fluval.
 
I have a 305 in my 46G bow. Along with that, I have a Hydro Sponge Filter II, rated for a 20G.

I also stock the tank with 10 Discus, and the ammonia levels are 0 after it's cycled. My 305 currently has 4 foam pads, one tray of pre-filter media, and 1/2 tray of biomax. One tray is empty. If you really wanted to max it out, you can easily put 2 trays of biomax, and you could probably run much more stock than I am. I do water changes almost daily for the Discus, but have left it 3 days to see if the filter was holding up, and indeed it was.

I find that possitioning the output first, then finding the best location for the intake is crucial. For the 46Bow, I have the output at the top right corner, and aim it at the front glass. After watching how the water patterns flow, and where most of the debris end up, I possition the intake to collect the debris.

The sponge filter is just a back-up, in case the Fluval fails.
 
Bluetik,
The last digit in the model number is the "series". So they have had two series of upgrades since the 403. IMO, that filter isn't worth buying. I currently have two 204's and one 404 and like them alot. As previously noted they can be a hassle to get started/primed but after that they run well and very quiet. The O-rings do need to be replaced especially if they have been stored for some time. The fluvals also use a rod to hold the impeller, this is breakable but replacements are available.

Most of my tanks are used (or even trash pickings) but I'd rather buy equipment new unless the cost was near $ 0.
 
I have a 305 (same filter, slightly newer model) on my 46 gallon bowfront. Heavy planted with the output through a spray bar. It works great and is easy to deal with and maintain.

For the initial priming I opened the quick disconnect over a 5 gallon bucket to get the hoses full of water. And I make sure the canister itself is full when I hook it back up after cleaning...This way I never have to prime it. I am on well water so I can fill it after cleaning right out of the tap, if I was on city water I would fill it with tank/treated water.

On the 305 there is a ball valve just above the intake basket that prevents the water from draining out of the hose when you do water changes... With the heavy plants I have to pull this off and clean it periodically because plant bits clog it up pretty quick... I don't thing the 304 has this, but just something to look for if you KNOW the filter is clean and you still have low flow.

I also bought a spare impeller, impeller shaft and o-ring when I bought the filter, but have not needed them yet. I grease the o-ring with silicon grease to keep it lubed and in good shape.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
AquariaCentral.com
Top Bottom