For those who are interested, a Tapwater and RODI water mix experiment

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Jesterrace

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Original poster
Apr 24, 2018
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In an effort to reduce some algae issues and mineral deposit issues, I am doing an experiment where I am doing a 50/50 treated tapwater and RODI water experiment. I will be doing weekly updates. Here is the first vid:

 

fishorama

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Jun 28, 2006
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For algae issues you can just have the lights on for less time. Since you don't have live plants (yet?) you don't really have to have lights at all or just when you're home to view the tank & feed the (1?) fish.

I'm all for experiments within reason. Good luck!
 

Jesterrace

AC Members
Original poster
Apr 24, 2018
73
12
8
41
For algae issues you can just have the lights on for less time. Since you don't have live plants (yet?) you don't really have to have lights at all or just when you're home to view the tank & feed the (1?) fish.

I'm all for experiments within reason. Good luck!
I only run my lights for 8 hours a day. I suppose I could shave another hour off, but to me 8 hours should be fine.

Week 4 update:

 
Apr 2, 2002
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Your vids will not provide any meaningful information about what is going on in your tank such as how the parameter changes affect the fish, plants (should you add them) and desired bacteria.

I have been mixing ro/di with my tap for a number of years. I do it regularly to alter the parameters for wild altum angels. I somtimes use it when I have to put my plecos through a dry/rainy cycle to try and trigger them to spawn. My tap is pH 7.0, the TDS depends on the amount of rainfall we have had recently. Whem there is a real lot, the TDS comes down into the low 50 ppm range, however they are normally dead on at 83 ppm. KH tests at about 3 dg and GH between 4 and 5. I rarely bother with those two. When I first got the fish they went into a tank with a pH just above 4.0 and TDS in the 20s ppm. Today they are at pH 6.0 and tds ranges from the 50s to the low 70s at water change time. I mix my changing water in a 20 gal can with 11 gals of ro/di and 9 of my tap. I add catapa leaves and alder cones to the water plus brewed rooibos tea for staining and health benefits.

In order to have any idea of what is going on in that tank I have a constant digital monitor which displays TDS (it can do two types of reading and can also do conductivity), Temp. in F (it can do C instead) and pH. The latter requires recalibration with reference solutions about every 6 to 8 weeks. I can watch the TDS and pH creep up between weekly water changes. To maintain the targeted parameters I move the probes into the 20 gal can and then mix he new water to get it in an acceptable temp range. I often have to add some muriatic acid to the changing water to ;lower the pH so it will get the tank ph where I need it. I may need to add a bit mor ro.di during the refil wo lower the TDS. Alternatively, I may add some ro.di to the tank to lower the TDS there a but first.

My point is, altering one's water chemistry is something one cannot control without proper testing. If you want to get rid of algae get an algae scraper, alter the lighting and get the excess nutrients out of your water. If you must go further, try a UV sterilizer. It should kill the algae in concert with manual removal. But be sure to get well educated about UV before you buy one. Here is a good site. Yes the guy sells aqaurium related supplies, but he also has good UV info. You will find more detailed info on UV than anybody needs to memorize let alone to know :)
http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html
(I am not endorsing the site or suggesting abybody buy or not buy from it. The UV info offered is pretty comprehensive compared to other sites.)
 
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