GH, KH, & TDS Clarification

[sumtnfishy]

I was just reading this very informative article on GH, KH, and TDS.
I was very unaware on some of these things. (Constantly educating myself though)

I need to get testing kit/equipment for these things. How important is TDS testing if you have all the other parameters in check? (Example: Relationships like KH is to PH as TDS is to ??

Can someone give me an idea what those readings need to be in my community tank for optimal water parameters?
Rasboras, Ram, Apistos, Candy Cane Tetras, Cory Cat, Geophagus, Threadfin Rainbows, bristlenose plecos

Thanks in Advance

Here is the link for the article I just read.
http://www.fishlore.com/aquariumfishforum/threads/understanding-ph-kh-gh-in-home-aqauriums.113548/

 

[Frank Castle]

I don't really concern myself with those things since they don't make much of a difference to the fish I keep nor can I really do anything about it. I just keep species of fish that thrive in my water parameters

 

[FreshyFresh]

Keeping them consistent with your source water is the important thing. One way of achieving this without even having the means to measure them, is to keep up on weekly water changes. I know the GH and KH of my tap and tank water stay in the low 100 range IIRC. No idea on the total dissolved solids, but I assume it's consistent given I don't do less than 50% WWCs and I never have to top up water level between WWCs on any of my tanks.

 

[FreshyFresh]

Keeping them consistent with your source water is the important thing. One way of achieving this without even having the means to measure them, is to keep up on weekly water changes. I know the GH and KH of my tap and tank water stay in the low 100 range IIRC. No idea on the total dissolved solids, but I assume it's consistent given I don't do less than 50% WWCs and I never have to top up water level between WWCs on any of my tanks.

 

[sumtnfishy]

Hi guys. Thanks for your input. Your always so nice helping me out.
Could you guys tell me what your tanks are stocked with and what your water parameters are (OR at least what you test for anyway) I am curious to see what is working for you.
I do want to let you know I added peat Moss granules to my filter. My pH was 7.8 and now it is 6.7. I am happy about that. Especially because I have an amazing pair of fire red apistos!!

 

[fishorama]

Is it your tap water pH that's 7.8? Some rocks can raise it too. I'd do smaller water changes with using peat, that's a pretty big difference (it's a logarithmic scale, like earthquakes).

Although pH "shock" is a myth, osmotic shock is not. I have pretty soft water so if I get new fish (even locally) I TDS test the new water & often need to slowly acclimate fish. It can work from low to high as well, it's big changes you want to avoid. Some lfs have higher GH, nitrate or even salt! I've seen more than 1100ppm difference. In that case I raised the QT params to more closely match the water the fish came in, & over weeks slowly get it close to my tap...& watch for new fish health as well. I almost always acclimate over an hour or 2 no matter what TDS or other tests show. I know many do the "plop & drop" no acclimation but I don't & haven't for almost 20 years.

I like having a TDS meter, a fun but unnecessary $20 toy. But it's faster than doing all the API tests & I'm lazy. My tanks may get as much as 100ppm higher than my tap between water changes, more than that & I know I need to up WCs.

 

[Frank Castle]

as far as my water it comes out the tap at 7.2-7.6PH and it is HARD. I use 1TBSP of non-iodized tablesalt per 5 gallons of water for several reasons, softening the water is just one of them. As far as my stock goes here's a link tto the fish I have kept and raised over tha past year or so, but I have also kept others prior to this with just as good results
https://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/threads/franks-tanks.286726/

 

[sumtnfishy]

Is it your tap water pH that's 7.8? Some rocks can raise it too. I'd do smaller water changes with using peat, that's a pretty big difference (it's a logarithmic scale, like earthquakes).

Although pH "shock" is a myth, osmotic shock is not. I have pretty soft water so if I get new fish (even locally) I TDS test the new water & often need to slowly acclimate fish. It can work from low to high as well, it's big changes you want to avoid. Some lfs have higher GH, nitrate or even salt! I've seen more than 1100ppm difference. In that case I raised the QT params to more closely match the water the fish came in, & over weeks slowly get it close to my tap...& watch for new fish health as well. I almost always acclimate over an hour or 2 no matter what TDS or other tests show. I know many do the "plop & drop" no acclimation but I don't & haven't for almost 20 years.

I like having a TDS meter, a fun but unnecessary $20 toy. But it's faster than doing all the API tests & I'm lazy. My tanks may get as much as 100ppm higher than my tap between water changes, more than that & I know I need to up WCs.

Hello - I left tap water out for 24 hrs and tested it at 7.8 so I know my gravel isn't causing an issue.
I tried to lower the pH slowly as I knew how. It was over 3 days for that change. If that is still too quick that is my fault. I am new to this so I am leaning on some common sense.

 

[Frank Castle]

Hello - I left tap water out for 24 hrs and tested it at 7.8 so I know my gravel isn't causing an issue.
I tried to lower the pH slowly as I knew how. It was over 3 days for that change. If that is still too quick that is my fault. I am new to this so I am leaning on some common sense.

Do you have any seashells or bricks or other "man-made stone" in your tank? Can you elaborate on the entirety of your décor?

 

[fishorama]

Oh, that's good to wait 24+ hours to test, I was just checking that you knew...& to be careful during WCs. No fish likes big changes, but I never saw a need to use peat, just be aware of possible issues. I saw your apistos are breeding, that's a good sign! But many are newer "varieties" that may be more adaptable to water params especially if locally bred. That's great!

Frank, I'm not a salt fan unless treating a disease issue. But I haven't lived in a hard water area in almost 20 years. I had many happy breeding CA/SA/African riverine fish as I saw you have (& you have more!), back in the day. But now my focus is on less forgiving/more sensitive fish, loaches are my "thing" these days & are quite salt averse long term. I see no need or value to salt on a regular basis. Why do you add it? Maybe a topic for another thread...sorry sumtnfishy, if we've derailed your thread too much, it's all good!

 

[Frank Castle]

Oh, that's good to wait 24+ hours to test, I was just checking that you knew...& to be careful during WCs. No fish likes big changes, but I never saw a need to use peat, just be aware of possible issues. I saw your apistos are breeding, that's a good sign! But many are newer "varieties" that may be more adaptable to water params especially if locally bred. That's great!

Frank, I'm not a salt fan unless treating a disease issue. But I haven't lived in a hard water area in almost 20 years. I had many happy breeding CA/SA/African riverine fish as I saw you have (& you have more!), back in the day. But now my focus is on less forgiving/more sensitive fish, loaches are my "thing" these days & are quite salt averse long term. I see no need or value to salt on a regular basis. Why do you add it? Maybe a topic for another thread...sorry sumtnfishy, if we've derailed your thread too much, it's all good!

Salt has a lot of benefits besides just softening water, for example it is a natural antiseptic so torn fins and missing scales heal quickly and it works wonders when used alongside Stress Coat. It is also a natural stress reducer and promotes healthy digestive function. As a result of stress reduction it also rewards us with more vibrantly colored fish.

Salt kills parasites, fights bacteria and fungus. Use it as a preventative measure to keep dormant pathogens from surfacing and force them into "remission". Many fish love the salts, and standard tablesalt is a cheaper acceptable substitute for Cichlids salts or Aquarium salts labelled in stores. A big bag of rocksalt will work the same, or a big bag of Water-Softener salt. NOT Ocean Salt. Ocean salt is different and should ONLY be used in Brackish or SW-tanks.

When I add the salt after my 60-90% weekly water changes the fish RUSH into the cloud of salt and act like a dog rolling in the grass. I have used salt in my tanks 24/7, 365 for over 10 years and the results speak for themselves.

While I must respectfully disagree about large water changes and not using salt, the only thing I can really say in hopes to make you a believer is that every fish in the thread I linked earlier is UNDER 18 months old and some are approaching 10" while some hit the 10" mark several months ago.