Gorilla Glue .... anyone used it before?

I use Gorilla glue all the time for wood but never tried it on plastic. Make sure there is some dampness when applying it, as it needs moisture to cure.

this is what I think the problem was with the part that came off.

I also think the noise I heard when I was testing, was that glued piece "breaking" off, and not the frame seal.

I added a bit of moisture this time, and by the time i get home from work it should be cured enough to perform some more tests.
 
ok, so i KNOW what the noise was now, that I heard earlier.
It was the glue breaking away from the glass, not the plastic.

I did it again, and seen it happen, so it didnt stick the piece to the glass, but the piece was alot shorter anyway, and I only expected it to bond to the plastic frame anyway.

this second attempt seems to be holding quite nicely now.
Im going to see if I can cut/sand away some of the excess hardened glue, and then I will fill'er up :)
 
now that I fill it, and can see it in action..... I dont think I needed it to begin with.

it doesnt seem to be under any stress at all, even though I actually glued it with the tank pushed inwards ever so gently/slighty.

this glue is amazing when used properly.
it cleaned up EXTREMELY easily and very nice looking. i was able to very easily cut all of the excess glue off with an exacto knife perfectly.
will get some pics later.
 
cool that it worked out for you, but for reference, I do not believe gorilla glue is meant for use on plastics. it works by using moisture to cause exansion into pourous materials like wood. the glue is strong because of the matrix it creates within the wood... the moisture in/on the wood draws the glue into the pores, and causes the glue to expand to fill gaps. it's not like an expoxy or solvent based plastic glue which melts it's way chemically into the material.
 
cool that it worked out for you, but for reference, I do not believe gorilla glue is meant for use on plastics. it works by using moisture to cause exansion into pourous materials like wood. the glue is strong because of the matrix it creates within the wood... the moisture in/on the wood draws the glue into the pores, and causes the glue to expand to fill gaps. it's not like an expoxy or solvent based plastic glue which melts it's way chemically into the material.

I did some reading on this stuff, and it will bond plastics as well, just not like a solvent or porous material.
making the plastic wet helps it bond though. "it begins the gluing process" to quote the website.

I pushed on the brace a bit, and it seems as if it has bonded the plastic nicely. Im sure clamping it together, and sanding the surfaces helped.... it gives it something to grip to.

not sure what to do about the lid issue though.
 
it clains to be the strongest glue in the world, for the strongest jobs in the world....

Pure marketing hype. "gorilla glue" is just a particular brand name for polyurethane glue.

Personally, I hate the stuff. It's very messy to use, and clean up from: it stains anything it touches, and once cured, cannot be dissolved. It foams up and gets on things.

Joints must be securely clamped. As I said, it has a tendancy to foam if allowed to, and the pressure will tend to push the joint apart while curing. The foam has no structural strength. This is another key characteristic of polyurethane glue - it has no gap-filling capability, so surfaces to be glued together must be precisely milled to fit perfectly against each other, in order to acheive a glue line of only a few thousandths of an inch. Also, as has been noted, some moisture is required to activate it.

It sounds like you are trying to structurally glue glass to some type of plastic, probably polystrene. www.thistothat.com has several suggestions.
 
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