Great CO2 Regulator on Ebay

Keep us posted. Are you going to have six tanks hooked up to co2? Did they supply six bubble counters. I'm also curious to know what working pressure is needed to use all six needlevalves at the same time. I just put a $6 dual manifold from marinedepot that looks like the little bother to that one. It seems to be doing good so far. Thanks
 
6 Outlet CO2 regulator

Izzy2 said:
Keep us posted. Are you going to have six tanks hooked up to co2? Did they supply six bubble counters. I'm also curious to know what working pressure is needed to use all six needlevalves at the same time. I just put a $6 dual manifold from marinedepot that looks like the little bother to that one. It seems to be doing good so far. Thanks
Click to expand...

To answer your questions:

Only one tank until I get a decent sense of this unit.
Yes, six bubble counters.

My gas supplier rolled up with a 20lb oxygen instead of CO2 so I did not get it set up last night as I had planned.

Will be changing bottles out today and set up tonight hopefully.

Will update later.
 
Nice price for what is offered, but it's still a single stage regulator (dual stage is preferred).
 
When your CO2 tank is nearly empty and the last of the liquid CO2 is converted to gas, things get dicey. If there's an appreciable room temp. increase after this has happened, the pressure can rise dramatically in the CO2 tank. Rather than converting some of the CO2 back to liquid form, nature's "plan A" is to vent the excess pressure into your aquarium, possibly killing your fish & inverts. A dual stage regulator helps prevent this (as does a good needle valve though to a lesser extent). The "belt and suspenders" solution to "end of tank dump" is to have a good 2 stage regulator and a decent needle valve (which is pretty much required to get a steady low flow of CO2 anyway).

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/equipment/57306-when-time-refill-co2.html#post430699 some Left C info & pics of several very good dual stage units... note the off-center "lump" on the backs? That's the second stage.
 
Hmmmm! Makes a lot of sense. I tried to strip down one of the needle valves but it appears to have a back seat as well so did not go any further. It did give the impression that the needle valves are well made.

I have a level detector we use at work. Guess I'll check it and change the cyl out once 80% used.

Thanks for the info though.
 
I like this regulator - mine has one needle valve and reasonably priced with free shipping. It works great.
 
Scuppers said:
...I have a level detector we use at work. Guess I'll check it and change the cyl out once 80% used...
Click to expand...

Or, you can just watch the pressure... once you've had the tank in situ for a day or two, put a piece of tape on the main tank pressure gauge's reading and check it daily for a while so you get a feel for how much (if at all) it moves. As soon as the last of the CO2 is converted to gas, you will notice much more pressure fluctuation - time to change immediately.

It's also a good idea to know the tare weight of your tank - just weigh it when it's empty, write that weight on the side of the tank in conspicuously large lettering w/ a sharpie, reweigh after each fill, and you can also check weigh it when you suspect it may be empty (or close).
 
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